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Member Since 12 Sep 2005
Offline Last Active Sep 04 2008 12:48 PM

Topics I've Started

Disk Shot Versus Old Nite Finder

24 September 2007 - 10:08 PM

First of all, I've read on several occasions that the old (dark blue and orange) Nite Finder has a better spring than the newer ones, though the difference isn't supposed to be obvious just from looking at it visually (mentioned here)

I've also read a few comments by members saying that the Disk Shot is "basically the old (dark blue and orange) Nite Finder" yet, in Renegade's mod, he shows pics of the spring for the Disk Shot compared with the 'new' NF and they look nothing alike. Given that the old and new NF supposedly look similar, then (via the transitive property) obviously the Disk Shot and old NF springs should look pretty different too.

I can only conclude that the comments regarding Disk Shot = old NF are referring to performance (despite apparently different springs) but just judging from the tension felt when cocking and firing both blasters, I got the impression that the old NF still packs more punch. As such, I decided to transplant the apparently more powerful guts of the old NF into the shell of the Disk Shot, which I like more than the old NF.

Regardless, for the sake of others who might be curious, I decided to post some pics comparing the assembly of my old (modded) NF and a recently acquired (stock) DS. As it turns out, the whole cocking handle (plus spring) can be swapped, with only a few differences (outlined below). The successful transplant of the old NF cocking handle and spring into the Disk Shot (and vice versa) corroborates Renegade's earlier assertion that the plunger assembly is nearly identical.

Here are pics of:

them side by side

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the plunger tubes are practically the same length and ID (judging from the success of the transplant); old NF above, DS below.

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the springs (old NF above, DS below). Like Renegade said, the cocking handle is a little longer in the DS

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Note that the catch/trigger mechanisms are slightly different leading to some minor incompatibilities; my upgraded Disk Shot (with NF cocking handle) takes a bit of a longer trigger pull to discharge (if you like a hair-trigger, this is less than ideal) - notice the gap between catch and trigger:

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Conversely, the old NF (with DS guts) is a bit easier to pull

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Just for starters, I did a basic barrel mod (17/32" brass) but will be looking into some integration ideas in the future. Oh yeah, I also added a second O-ring to the plunger head (of the Disk Shot only).

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Some other basic differences I noticed: the quality of screws has really slipped in the newer blaster (Disk Shot). The screws are smaller and strip alot easier than the ones for the old NF. Even the plastic tabs that anchor the plunger tube to the shell of the stock DS seem pretty weak - the rear one was already cracking when I opened it up. These factors discouraged me from making a more robust/objective comparison between the two springs; the ideal way to do this would be to compare the ranges of the DS (modded or otherwise) with the stock cocking handle/spring versus with the NF assembly--but I was worried that the tabs would snap off (or I'd strip the screws) after repeated fooling. Also, if you noticed in the pics of the trigger/catch mechanism, the Disk Shot's trigger is much flimsier looking than the old NF's.

Anyhoo, there it is - now if anyone had all three (old NF, new NF and the DS), it would be great to see the differences and, ideally, see some actual quantification of these differences that people often claim.

___EDIT: interpretation for those still unclear (e.g. Sixfivetwo) -> clearly, the springs of the old NF and the DS don't look alike. Whether they perform the same remains to be tested - but I'm betting that the old NF still beats the DS. Unfortunately, I don't have a new NF so I can't comment on performance here, but Renegade's write-up (in the mod directory and referenced in earlier in the text) suggests that the DS is better than the new NF. So in my mind:
oldNF > DS > newNF

BUT it would be best if someone who has ALL THREE actually tested this by measuring ranges using each spring placed in the same stock blaster (or at least with the same barrel mod)

Cpvc Barreled Missile Storm

02 August 2007 - 07:09 PM

This will be less than mindblowing. Let's face it, it doesn't take a rocket (missile? B) ) scientist to come up with this mod. I'm sure this has been done before but it appears that there aren't even pics of modded missilestorms around (at least on their own), let alone a writeup. Perhaps this will end up in the "vintage" section of the mod directory.... the copyright date imprinted on the turret says 1993! This thing is older than probably half of the members on this forum. Curiously, it also says that it was manufactured by Kenner (a division of Tonka toys) - I didn't even realize NERF wasn't always owned by Hasbro.

I picked up this blaster from my local thrift shop ($0.99) and other than a broken missile rod/peg, it worked (no missiles included).

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I figured I'd take it home and have some fun. Normally, I'd open it up right away but it uses these peculiar screws with star-shaped (hexalobular?) recesses - for which I don't own a screwdriver. So this write-up really just documents a simple "external" treatment. If can open it up in the future, I'll add some pics and possibly some internal (e.g. airseal) mods.

But modding the barrels is easy enough - first, I hacked off the rods down the nubs on the turret.

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Then I cut some CPVC into four 3" sections. I use 2" darts for my CPVC barrels but ofcourse you can use whatever lengths you like. The extra clearance was to accommodate the turret nubs (about 3/4") over which the barrels fit. A small bit (~3") of e-tape around each nub and the CPVC barrels fit tightly. Add some hotglue to secure the connections. And voila:

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the ranges are not spectacular (probably not more than 40') and very variable. Since this is a trigger-less blaster (you pull back the blue handle to rotate the turret and then push forward rapidly to fire), the range depends on how hard/fast you push. Truth be told, I don't get very good results with my CPVC/dart setup - if I get around to picking up more brass, I'm going to replace the barrels.

I also bought this with other plans in mind (e.g. integrating the turret and cocking mechanism with a powerful spring gun) - so this may well be a temporary solution.

Anyhoo - enjoy!


01 August 2007 - 08:22 PM

I stumbled upon this thing while surfing the web for something completely different.

It appears to be another "safer", low tech and less messy version of paintball. Judging from the descriptions on the website, the ammo are 19mm (~ 3/4") puffballs that stick to hook/loop velcro targets (on the body or otherwise).
The 'blaster' is powered by surgical tubing (slingshot-esque) and is similar in principal to some homemades I've seen on this site.

Anyone had any experience with it? I'm intrigued about the possibility of modifying the blaster (e.g. add a plunger) to shoot darts/stefans and/or use the ammo for Nerf blasters (e.g. obviously with larger ID barrels than typically used). I'm a little skeptical of whether the ammo would have the correct weight or be able to provide a good airseal but its hard to say just from looking. The prospect of spherical but soft ammo is something that I find appealing (for gravity-fed hoppers/clips) and, if I recall, was also the impetus for a post by Tidge a long time ago. I never did hear whether or not he got a chance to try any of the ideas out.

Pump Shotgun Pump-action/clip Mod

25 September 2006 - 04:13 AM

A while back, I posted some internal pics of this
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off-brand ball gun (aka the ERTL FS-1010 Pump Shotgun) I bought at a local Bass Pro shop. Given the internals, I was pretty optimistic of its potential. I brassed it and was pretty happy with its performance singled
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Its got great range (think Max Shot) and its airseal is so tight that darts can be muzzle loaded in the 8" brass barrel (9/16") and get sucked the rear of the barrel when cocked. This makes for a good RoF with no breeching necessary.

(NOTE* for any mod using a 9/16" barrel, be sure to jam some PETG or brass of smaller inner diameter in the back of the barrel to prevent darts from getting sucked right into the plunger.)

But I had been thinking of ways to turn this thing into an even more formidable weapon in terms of ammo load and RoF. I was trying to think of a way to clip-mod this in a way similar to my version of Piss Bacon's BBB mod (aka the Bacon Bow). Of course the problem was that the shotgun, like most Nerf blasters, lacked the BBB's unique cocking mechanism that allows the barrel/breech system to fire darts at a position closest to the plunger. I ended up buying another ERTL shotgun recently and went to work.

Well, my solution was to split the handle of the existing shotgun pump into two sections (front and rear). The front handle still functions to cock the plunger but the rear can now move independently to work a breech, sliding the brass (9/16") barrel backwards over the dart. Not sure what to call this type of mechanism - kinda like pump and bolt action at the same time.

I'll do my best to explain what I did but I'm afraid I didn't have a camera available during some of the crucial early steps. Hopefully though, the pics will give you an idea and you can fill in the blanks. I don't talk about replacing the existing barrel and installing the new barrel/breech as Forsaken Angel already provided a good write up for the the former and the latter was performed by a procedure that I used when making my Bacon Bow.

The "arm" used to link the rear handle to the barrel/breech consisted of some spare black plastic tubing (just lying around) and a broken aluminum tent stake
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The blunt end of the stake was jammed very tightly into some PETG do facilitate gluing to the inside of the rear handle. The pointy tip of the tent stake was eventually jammed into the hollow black plastic tube and secured with some e-tape and a tightened hose clamp.

The handles were hacked from the original pump - here are the handles after the cutting was already done
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Note the position of the tent stake.

To accomodate the backwards sliding (closed breech) arm (with hose clamp), I had to hack/sand out some space in the bottom of the front handle
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To install the stake, I screwed the rear handle back together and once I got everything in position, I used some krazy glue to attach it and a pile of hotglue around it to support the stake. But be careful not to add too much glue - there still need to be space to accommodate a screw when the rear handle is slid forward (open breech)
Posted Image. The black plastic arm extension connected to the 9/16"barrel via a series of hose clamps and a CT clamp
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The new breech (19/32" brass) was mounted to the plunger with some e-tape and a piece of PVC coupler (gray thing).
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more in a sec (image limits).....

I was afraid the connection was weak so I took some old (green) plastic tubing and cut out a ring to add support to the junction between the PVC coupler and the (brown) plunger tube
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Then I wrapped the ring in black e-tape
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To allow it to accommodate my clips, I added a clip guide cut from some scrap transparent orange PETG
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I glued it to the the PVC coupler opposite from the breech opening
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I also secured this connection with a (white) ziptie
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My clip slides into position and is held by the guide. Since the clip is spring fed, I keep it in a semi-sideways position
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But since the breech can still be rotated, the clip can also be mounted vertically (above) - so, in theory, it can also accommodate gravity-fed clips
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I'm very happy with the result. I just need to make more clips or ones of greater capacity. I am currently working on a 25-round drum-magazine. I'll write it up if it works. If it does, I might not want to buy that Longshot anymore.

Sorry - no official ranges (I live in a tiny apartment in the downtown core). And I didn't bother to do anything with the plunger/internals (Forsaken Angel posted a clever way of maximizing the air delivery) as when I war (seldom), it is usually indoors where anything beyond 60 feet is a bit of overkill - but this thing is STILL a welt-bringer!

In case you don't get how it works here's some (crappy) video of:
the pump/breech mechanism
installing the clip and firing (that carboard target/trap is point blank)
single breech-loading (e.g. if I'm out of clips)

I hope you found this stimulating! Comments?

Clip Mod For Brass Breech

07 April 2006 - 06:56 PM

I've been struggling with a satisfactory clip system for my version of the Bacon Bow. My original clip was gravity-fed but I wanted something spring-fed as I figure, the jiggling around of running/ducking/jumping would cause some complications for a gravity-fed clip (especially when half-empty).

I followed the basics of Ompa's clip mod but I also wanted to remedy the whole issue of having to keep a head count of darts to prevent the spring/dart advancing mechanism from getting accidentally chambered. Furthermore, the whole point of a clip-system for me was to have one that I could easily change/reload even on the run. That means having a mechanism that limits the advance of darts so the darts don't pop out by themselves.

Well, here's my attempt:

my darts are about 1.5" long so the cassette case option wasn't gonna do it for me. I found some of these boxes that hold photo slides (think vacation slides before PowerPoint was invented) in my office desk. You have to dremel/cut out a divider in it. Then cut out one (short) wall and glue the lid closed.
(this one's already been messed with)
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then I made a spring out of two old air-restrictors (SM3K - I think), some craft foam (black) and a piece of CPVC for the barrel advancing (platform-like) thing
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Here's a cross-section of that advancing thingy (hotglue was used to attach the spring to it):
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Then I constructed my "dart-limiting" mechanism. I took some 5/8" PETG (I'm actually not sure if this is really PETG, its the stuff for home aquarium use - to extend suction tubes; its got a little bit of flex). I cut out a small section on the side destined to be the top (in RED marker) - keep this piece for later (for making the 'guide' -see below. This has to be narrower than the diameter of the darts so darts don't pop through it. Then I cout out a bit from the other side destined to be the bottom (in BLUE marker). The cut out has to be large enough to allow darts through, while still leaving enough to glue to the rectangular clip "box".
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I found these 1/2" straps for piping at the hardware store:
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Then I glued both the "limiter" and a strap to the box. It might be easier if you also install the spring beforehand - but it didn't matter for me.
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