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Gas Mask Guy

Member Since 14 May 2008
Offline Last Active May 24 2013 12:42 PM

Topics I've Started

Pretty And Removable Pump-action Recon Mod

24 July 2009 - 09:16 PM

Today we're going to make a pretty looking and removable pump-action attachment for the Recon. Others have made the Recon pump-action before, but I've never liked the looks of them, and I had a broken Recon to mess with anyway. This is an advanced mod: read these instructions, but only do the mod if you understand what is going on. A lot of this was done on intuition, and I got a lot of things to fit by sheer luck.

Here's the thing attached to a Recon at rest:
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and this is what it looks like while priming:
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Sexy. Anyway, the materials for this include:

* Two recons (only one needs to be functional)
* 1/4" Lexan, or anything else that you can make a couple big strong bars with
* An N-Strike rail system attachment (for instance, you can take one out of the iron-sight that comes with the Recon that no one loves)
* A 2.5" machine screw size 10 without a pointy end
* An acorn nut that fits the above screw
* A 2" machine screw size 10 or less without a pointy end
* A normal nut that fits the above screw (no acorn for this one)
* Two .5" machine screws size 10 or less (with or without pointy end)
* A bunch of washers that fit your screws (I used #8s, and they fit fine. As for how many, I used... 7, but you may use more or less)
* Putty, goop, or anything else that will hold things in place despite the laws of physics
* Either a dremel or, if you hate yourself like I do, one of those things that holds a hacksaw blade in a dagger-esque grip and a hobby knife
* A drill, with a bunch of drill bits around the sizes of your screws and your screwdriver bits
* A small screwdriver (y'know, the one you use to open all your blasters)

Okay, down to business. First, you're going to take the lesser of your Recons apart and get rid of all the internals. Keep the slide (or grip, or grey-piece-on-top-that-you-move-back-and-forth-to-prime-the-blaster). With the grip off to the side, cut (with dremel or hacksaw) the body down the groove where the slide grips the body. Throw away the bottom of the gun (the handle and all that) and keep the top half. And we're left with this:

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(Note: all these pictures are taken after mod completion, so you'll have to rely on the lines and the text to tell you what to do)

So what did we do in here? Well, start by cutting off the back, and then clearing out everything on the inside between those lines. This part in the back will be sliding over parts of the Recon and the extended barrel, so we want to make room for them. Here's another view that shows one more tiny cut that you may have to make.
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What are those green L-shapes on that first internal picture? That's where we make a place to attach the N-Strike rail clip. Now if you cut things just right, you can have the clip fit in there all nice. You're going to have to putty or goop it in there anyway to hold it still, but try to cut a space in there as close to the shape of the clip as possible. You're trying to take advantage of the tiny lip around the base of the clip. Look at whatever your clip was originally from (for me, the Recon iron-sight attachment) for inspiration.

These next pics should help you see what I'm talking about. Note that the clip is placed backwards, so I've removed the little nub that catches into the tiny spring loaded thing on all the N-Strike slides. Remember though, only putty/goop it to one side, so that you can still open the assembly later.
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Now take the slide and drill holes right through the little bar that pokes out (this would be what connects the slide to the bolt sled if everything were assembled). These holes are for the 2.5" screw. This will decimate the pegs, so remove whatever's left of them after the hole is drilled. Here's a picture showing the aftermath (drill the holes marked in green, not the ones marked in red. The red holes are the unfortunate scars left by science).
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Now one last thing before we move on, look back at that first internal picture. See those three holes near the back on either side of the assembly? I want you to remember those, and particularly that the one in the corner is the only one you want. The others are bad, the corner is good.

[to be continued]

Nite Wiinder

24 January 2009 - 04:18 PM

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So, anyone who's ever opened up the Wii blaster has probably noticed that the internals very close to ye olde NF, but the restrictor requires drilling to remove and everything is a bit smaller. Well I would have none of that. Pardon my dust, this is my first writeup, and I'm doing it about a month after I did the mod.

Okay, step one is to take the business half of the gun out and open it up (only 4 screws! Hell yeah!). Oh, and open up your Nite Finder (you know you have a spare lying around).

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This is what it will look like when you're done, but you've got some cutting/dremeling to do. Not pictured is the removal of the two little tabs on the NF air chamber where the screws hold it in. Also, take the peg and AR out of the NF (if you don't know how, this forum and its search function are your friends).

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So, the NF spring will not fit where the current spring does; it will completely compress before the catch... catches. So, you cut a space here big enough for the spring, but not big enough for the NF air chamber move back (it fits perfectly there as is).

I'll take this opportunity to talk about the catch spring: it doesn't like you. I don't thing the stock one will do the job. I believe that I have the NF spring here, but I spent about half of my modding time looking for little springs on the floor. It might also be a LS frontgun spring. If a NF spring doesn't want to cooperate, and you don't have any other springs to try, you can do what I did here and cut the little tab at the top to give the NF catch spring some room, but be warned: you will have to play Twister with the thing every time you try to put it together if you do.

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Now on the other half of the shell, you'll have to shave/sand this screw well down a bit. Otherwise, the barrel won't fit. Don't think you can get away with taking the whole damn thing out; there are only 4 screws that hold this thing together, and these components fit quite snugly. So be careful not to ruin the well too badly.

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Now, we're using the original plunger, 'cause the catch is in a different place on the NF. That's okay, the head is the same diameter. Throw the second O ring on there, and replace the spring with the NF spring (there's a screw right on the front of the head, can't miss it).

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Now here's how your putting the barrel and air chamber in there. If you feel like there might be air loss from that little gap, you can try hot gluing it, but I wanted to be able to open this thing again. Also, things fit so tightly in there that I doubt there is any such leak. Note that the tip of the barrel has the point on the bottom: remember that you have to clip this back into the rest of the gun. This barrel is still a little big, and it will take some getting used to to insert and remove this thing into the body, but it's possible as long as the slope is in this direction.

And there you have it. I haven't busted out a tape measure, but it fires like an NF sans AR. You can still use the Wiimote if you've got the game. Thanks for listenin', children!

[Note: I rotated all of those pics, but P-Bucket doesn't seem to be doing it. Hopefully it will correct itself. If not... well I tried.]

Magstrike Firing Mechanism Autopsy

10 August 2008 - 10:28 PM

Alright, way back when I first tried to get in here, it was to ask if there was a good description of how the firing mechanism of the Magstrike (and powerclip, and wildfire, and rapidfire, etc.) worked. Now I bet a lot of you here have figured it out, but the few explanations I read didn't click with me. Luckily, my second Magstrike was a dud, so I got to rip it to shreds. So here's a writeup to clarify exactly how this works.

Just so you know exactly what you're seeing later, this is where I made the cut, at the back of the whole thing. Normally, all you see of this thing is the tube that it fits in, and I cut the back wall of this tube off to look inside here.
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This is the inside of the firing mech in a state of rest. Everything is all bunched together. Note, the back of the outer tube isn't normally shoved up against the disk that holds it all in place, but it has more room to expand now.
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Here is the firing mechanism with the front section extended. That front piece with the two holes in the side actually has a spring in there that tries to push back against the plunger.
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You know that air comes in the back, but the arrow points to where this air actually enters the mechanism: a tiny little hole in the central shaft just after the plunger.
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So, now that you've seen it, here's the explanation of the firing sequence. Pic first, then step by step. DL the pic and zoom in if it's still unclear: since these things are mostly cylinders, it's kinda hard to draw, so if it's a lighter version of the same color, that means there's a hole there on one or more sides, but not all the way around. Every color represents a different piece (i.e. everything in black is the "outer tube," everything in red is the "plunger," and everything in blue is the "stopper," and each of those is all one piece). This might not be actual size, but I was pretty meticulous about the scale.
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1. At Rest: The springs are spread as far as they can, there is no pressure in the chamber, and the stopper has sealed the front, so air in will not go directly out the barrel. The air starts filling into the middle (out of that little hole in the red piece). The blue piece is flush up against a wall, so the air can only push the red piece (compressing the both springs).

2. Filling: The air has filled as far as it thinks it can go. The smaller spring is compressed as tight as it can. This means if we push the plunger back any farther, it'll take the blue piece with it. But the blue piece is...

3. POP: ...the stopper. The rubber that was sealing the front off just got pulled off the exit. Now the air is free! So it goes rushing out, around the blue piece and out the black.

4. Push: The plunger is no longer held back by the pressure. As the last of it goes out the barrel, both springs extend as fully as possible, advancing the clip and pushing all these internals back into the original position, with the exit plugged, so it can happen again and again.

And that, ladies and gents, is the layman's explanation of the Nerf air-powered rapid-fire mechanism. First post (I've done plenty of mods, but nothing you guys haven't seen, so...).

[Edit: Title change, and reworded the Push phase as per imaseoulman's insights]