Clark3DPR

This is still excellent work, I look forward to seeing more from you in the future!

Id also recommend considering coarse thread screws into simple holes. In my Mk18, Ive got a screw going through the plunger head into the plunger rod and I havent had one fail despite the ~15kg springload applied directly opposite. I think for m2.6/#4 Im using a 2.6mm designed diameter hole, for m3/#6 a 3mm hole.

I will try the plastic larger thread pitch screws for my next nerf project. 15kg sounds like a stiff spring!

Part 5 - Arduino Code

Use the following code with the schematic in the last post to give you a better idea of what does what.

There was much research, trial and error to get the code working, but here it is:

const int buttonPinF = 2;      // Flywheel Rev microswitch pin number
const int buttonPinS = 5;      // Solenoid microswitch pin number
int buttonStateF = 0;             // Variable for reading the Flywheel Rev microswitch status
int buttonStateS = 0;             // Variable for reading the Solenoid microswitch status
int solenoidPin = 4;              // Solenoid MOSFET Gate pin number

#include <Servo.h>

Servo throttle;

int pos = 0;
int pin = 3;                            // ESC signal pin

void setup() {
  
   pinMode(buttonPinF, INPUT); 	       // Initialize the Flywheel microswitch pin as an input
   pinMode(buttonPinS, INPUT); 	       // Initialize the Solenoid microswitch pin as an input
   throttle.attach(pin);
   pinMode(solenoidPin, OUTPUT);         // Sets Solenoid MOSFET Gate pin as an output
    
 // ESC Arming Sequence
   for (pos = 90; pos <= 91; pos += 1) { 
      throttle.write(pos);             
      delay(3700);                                         // Wait for ESC to arm / Exit safety mode

// Increase this 3700 value depending on how long it takes for your ESC to arm

   }
}

void loop() {
  
    buttonStateF = digitalRead(buttonPinF);  // Read state of Flywheel microswitch value
 
    if (buttonStateF == HIGH) {  // Check microswitch pressed, if so Flywheel buttonState is HIGH
    throttle.write(92);                 // <(92) = Motor off / (92) = Idle speed
  } else {
    throttle.write(97);                // Motor on (92) = Idle speed / ~(115) = Max speed
  }

buttonStateS = digitalRead(buttonPinS);    // Read state of Solenoid microswitch value

  if (buttonStateF == LOW && buttonStateS == LOW) {
  digitalWrite(solenoidPin, HIGH);           // Switch Solenoid ON
  delay(90);                                                // ON duration
  digitalWrite(solenoidPin, LOW);           // Switch Solenoid OFF
  delay(100);                                             // OFF duration
   } else {
      digitalWrite(solenoidPin, LOW);      // Switch Solenoid OFF
  }
}

 

 

 

I think this is a case of differing settings - I've had tree supports that came off a horizontal supported surface so cleanly that I couldn't tell what surface was supported. I've also heard of guys using auto standard supports getting similar results, but have never had much success with them myself.

 

I find trees tend to come off more readily in one piece, but they can lap funnily into areas they don't belong.

 

I feel like it'd be possible to design the supports in as maybe boxes that pop off somewhat cleanly but don't wreck the surface. I may try that since I have some extra filament and printing time...

 

Oh also, I've had great success using coarse thread screws like wood, sheet metal, plastite, etc. Inserts are nice, but IMO overkill for 99% of parts - you don't really need to open and close these things so much that a coarse thread will strip the plastic out except in the case of an access hatch or battery bay. A machine thread could certainly strip though, those are too fine for the plastic to hold long.

Interesting, I will test that 3D printed thread, though I use small m3 sizes. Also, printing a threaded hole sideways (sometimes I have to) the hole is sometimes not perfectly circular.

I will test tree supports on my next project.