UpperHand

I just had a few questions about Polycarbonate, considering I am new to working with the material.

1. What is the best way to get a straight cut in polycarbonate? I read in the beginners guide to machining plastics that a tablesaw with the correct blade will work, but I'm afraid that it will shatter 1/8" polycarb. If I use Mcmaster part #4079A15, will I be OK?

2. What speed should I set a scroll saw at if I want to cut the plastic? I was thinking something around 800 would work, I just wanted confirmation. (I have a Ryobi model; I dont think that matters)

3. Which blades should I use for the scroll saw? (a Mcmaster part # would be greatly appreciated)

Also, any other tips for someone new to this (tapping holes, using the plastic weld, etc) are welcome.

Thanks,
Upperhand

So I have been working in homemades for a while, because I find making them more satisfying than modifying guns. I have made a rifle, long range weapon, shotgun, and now was looking to make a good sidearm. I wanted a solid design that would give me good ranges when I ran across this. It seemed to be perfect, so I decided to try a reverse plunger design of my own. Carrtoon owns a lathe, so a lot of the fitting of my project needed to be done via sanding. It's nice that it can be made with a dremel, drill, and other simple tools. Much of the credit for this goes to Cartoon and his design. Without further adieu, the pistol:

This is it when cocked:

The view from where you load the darts (through the back, then put the cap back on):

If this is confusing, see Carrtoon's pistol.
Finally, a size comparison to a NF:


I will post pictures of the plunger later if people are interested. Also, I might post a write up, but not for some time because school is almost back for me. Ranges are stupendous, because there is literally no dead space. I'd say about the range of my Snap (90 feet flat).

EDIT-- RPS stands for Reverse Plunger Sidearm

After the completion of my most recent homemade, I have decided that I want to build a nerf gun based off flywheels. A semi or fully automatic any other way would seem to hard to me, and I am not really interested in range as much as sheer output of foam . Now I'm not gonna say "Can one of you tell me how, so I can do it?" I know people have made this kind of blaster, but I'd like to be original. I would, however, appreciate it if someone directed me towards a good book/internet source for begenning motors that I could apply to a flywheel design. A book would be great too, considering christmas is coming up. Thanks.

-Upperhand

Let me start by saying the name is inspired by it being a "side cocking rifle" where the clip holds 6 darts. Now that that is out of the way, I give you a project that has had months of blood sweat and tears poured into it.
The SCR-6:


It has some similarities to the snap, but also several differences.

1: There is no bar coming out the back of the gun, which allows the user to hold the rifle to his chest before firing.
2: It has a built in "ladder sight" that Cartoon has explanations for here: http://nerfhaven.com...hl=Ladder Sight
I did however, put my own twist on it, where the ladder is on a hinge so it stays out of the way while firing, and is velcroed to the body. The view is like this:

3: It uses a stripper clip, but it is more like a chain, so that when the bottom barrel is loaded on the top barrel stays out of the users line of sight. It is connected via velcro so that when one barrel is damaged/breaks, it can be replaced:
4: It has a hinge in the stock, (which is hollow), to allow the user to hold a second clip:

5: It has a stock, handle, and barrel support made of wood.
6: Last, but most importantly, it cocks from the side! It has a metal bar which has a rubber/foam grip to allow for easy firing:

As for the stats, it gets mid 80's. The plunger system is the same to the SNAPs, however, the spring is housed inside a 3/4" coupler. The ROF is a little faster than a NF.

Even though I am happy with the stats, my main goal was to create a relatively realistic looking rifle, that could still perform well enough to be my primary. I think I was sucessful. A couple more pictures of it just for kicks:


Questions, Comments, Flames?

-Upperhand

I made a wood stock for one of my homemade designs, and was wondering what is the best way to bind wood and PVC? Any help would be appreciated.