A side of nerf

Whats good NIC? Long time, no see!

So after returning to the world of Nerf after a 2-3 year break, I found a whole new world of blasters. (When I left, the raider was the latest blaster on the market)
Upon reviewing the progression of blasters, I found, not to my surprise, a bunch of reshelled N-Strike blasters. ZOMG CLIPZ.
One blaster, The Rough Cut , caught my attention.
I mean, just look at it, it's fucking sweet..
I initially planned to integrate two panther rigs into the shell, but I discovered that clownieX already did that.

So I decided to come up with something new, something that made the already sexy RoughCut look even more sexier

[/cliche' "I'm back" intro]


The Rough Cut 4x4 AKA Dudley

Project Goals:
+ combine two RoughCuts into one blaster
+ Avoid using liquid adhesives (Hotglue, epoxy, JB Weld, etc..)
+ Link both blasters to one handle and trigger
+ Link the priming mechanism into one shotgun style pump.

So here's the write up guys.

Tools:
+ Drill (with 1/8" bit, 5/32" Bit)
+ Some form of saw (for Nylon rod)
+ Dremel tool- while not impossible to do without, this is strongly recommended
+ Screwdrivers (flat or phillips depending on which type of bolts you purchase)

Materials: new modders, be not afraid! this list looks more complex than it actually is, its a force of habit..I grew up in the +bow days when CaptainSlug had a detailed partslist for a run to the grocery store...
Most of these are available at your local ACE hardware or Home Depot, I have some parts that came from McMaster Carr but for those of you younger nerfers out there, or those of you that can't access internet commerce (Mom, can I have your credit card?), I will note substitutes that you can use to accommodate the modification
+ 2 Rough Cuts
+ A little bit of 1/8" polycarbonate plastic sheeting [Check your Home Depot, ask for 'Lexan']
+ Bolts: (if you don't understand the measurements, present this list to your friendly neighborhood hardware man and he'll know exactly what to get for you)

• ten 6/32 x 1/2"
• six 6/32 x 3/8"
• four 6/32 x 1 1/4"
• one 6/32 x 3/4"
• one 6/32 x 3 1/2"

+ Nuts/Washers

• twenty 6/32 washers
• five 6/32 nuts

+ Nylon 6/6 Rod 1/2" diameter: about 7 inches [McMaster product key:8538K18]

• This can be substituted with 1/2" diameter dowel rods at ACE, drilled with a 1/8" drill bit

+ four 6/32 1/4" threaded round standoffs [McMaster product key: 93330A441]

• This can be substituted with 1/4" diameter dowel rods at ACE, drilled with a 1/8" drill bit

Notes:
+For reference purposes I will define the following:

• The "Inside Shells" are the blaster halves that face inward, and are bolted together.
• The "Outer Shells" are the blaster halves that face outward and are not bolted to each other.

So purchase your two Rough Cuts, I recommend WalMart, they give you 16 darts as opposed to 8 (you're gonna need em')



Unscrew the 3 screws on the priming pump and pop it off to access the blaster's internals.



Okay, now that she's cracked open, feel free to modify the blaster in any way that fits your needs. There are various mods including Air Restrictor Removal, Speedloaders, etc.. that can improve the performance of the blasters, I chose to leave mine stock because currently I'm just dicking around indoors. Basically at this point, do what you need to do for performance, as that is a minor focus of this modification.



Ok, so you need to select two halves to be the "inside" shells, these will be the two parts of the shell that are used to connect to each other. They need to be opposite sides from each blaster. Once you've got them selected, drill eight holes using a 5/32" drillbit in the areas displayed in the picture.



Cut four 1 1/2" pieces of the 6/6 Nylon Rod. [dowels if you're substituting] These will be your connecting pieces.



Using a 1/8" drillbit, drill holes in both sides of each piece of nylon [I recommend using a vise to secure them, it is important that the holes that you drill are as straight as possible, to ensure a good, clean fit.]



Using 6/32 x 1/2" bolts and 6/32 washers, bolt the pieces of nylon to one side of the "inside" shell



Go ahead and bolt the other "inside" shell to the nylon, so you can get it threaded, and get a feel for the new shell [you will periodically unbolt and rebolt as you assemble]



Using you Dremel tool (or other precision cutting tool), cut the "outer shell" halves [the halves that will face outward] as indicated in the above picture.
These handles will be saved to be used as the blasters final handle, because they are preserved by the cutting process.



Again using your Dremel tool, cut the "inside shell" to the general shape indicated above. It is important to note that it is a different cut than the previous. Look closely, and try to match the pattern.



Using a 5/32" drillbit, drill four holes in the handle sides you saved and the corresponding "inside shell" as pictured above. You'll need to do this for both "inside shells"( red X= measure twice cut once xD)



Now use you 6/32 x 1/2" and 6/32 x 3/8" bolts along with 6/32 washers to attach the 6/32 x 1/4" threaded standoffs [or dowel rods if you're substituting] to the blaster handle as shown in the picture. These will be used to attach the handle to the blaster.




Use 6/32 x 1/2" and 6/32 x 3/8" bolts along with 6/32 washers to fasten the handle to the "inside shell" as displayed above.
Now that you have a feel for the handle's attachment, unscrew it so you can begin the final assembly.

Does anyone know of any good Crossbow trigger and catch replacement springs?
If you know of any or have any that have worked and you have tested them, then I would be willing to buy them.

Thanks.

This write-up is for all of you who cried, puked, and attempted suicide over the discovery of a leak in your SS2 tank.

In the write-up, I will be swapping the problematic system that comes with a stock SS2 for a hybrid back-pressure system made from a Big Salvo tank, a hornet blast button, and a AT3k Pump. This mod works using a basic backpressure system which consists of 3 basic components, making it easy to integrate anywhere in the gun.

Materials:
+ SS2 shell
+ SS2 trigger
+ SS2 pump handle
+ Hornet blast valve
+ 1/8 inch ID vinyl tubing
+ 1/8 inch ID Barbed T fitting
+ JB Weld
+ Hot Glue

The goal of this mod was to keep the gun looking as stock as possible so certain parts like the stock trigger must be kept.

The Shell


The Shell requires a lot of body work to fit a Big Salvo tank. The best advice, get your Dremel and go to work. Sand out enough room to fit the tank and the 3K Pump. Then drill holes for the tubing to protrude. As seen in the bottom right corner, the tubing for the system will all stick out here.


The System
The Tank

Wedge a 5 inch piece of 1/8" ID tubing over the back stem on a Big Salvo tank. Glue the tank to the back panel the stock tank used to rest on, and feed the tubing through the adjacent hole.


Make sure the trigger apparatus is in place before you glue the tank though.


The Trigger

JB Weld a 5 inch piece of 1/8" ID tubing into the hole of the blast valve.


The Blast Valve's tubing is then fed through the middle hole and glued in place at an angle so the Stock trigger's end is directly under the button, enabling it to be pushed with the pull of the trigger.


When the trigger is pulled, the button is pressed, engaging the tank to fire.

The Pump

If you like the SS2's pump handle, cut off the 3k's pump head and the SS2's pump head and glue the 3k's pump head to the SS2 pump handle.


Dremel the handle to fit the new pump and feed the 5 inch long segment of 1/8" ID tubing through the hole.

The Barrel
(Some people would like larger barrels but mine is going to be cut to 2")


Cut the end segment off of the stock barrel.


Cut the desired length of PETG (or whatever barrel material you use) and wrap it in E-tape to fit in the black part of the tank and to fit in the Red piece.


Glue the barrel in place.

Bringing it all Together

Cut the external tubing to the smallest possible length that will still allow them to connect and join them with the 1/8" Tee Barbed fitting.


The internals should look like this.


Screw the gun together and try her out. I get 90 feet at 2 pumps and I can barely squeeze a 3rd pump in.

Thanks,
-A side of nerf

Summer SENO
Due to the situation in Augusta, I've been asked to host a Summer SENO down here. There might be another one in July before SOFA but we need to get some nerfing in before then.




Location:

100 Constitution Way, Richmond Hill, GA 31324



Host:
A side of nerf

Date: 6/27
6/27
10:00AM - 6:00PM

Particpant Responsibilities:
+ Bring $5 for a pizza delivery
+ Bring at least one primary
+ Bring sunscreen (trust me, you'll need it.)


Attendance:
Definites: 16
+ A side of nerf and Veginator +4-5
+ Hawksh0t (via youtube)
+ zipx
+ Imaseoulman +2-4
+ rork +2

Maybes:

This mod originally conceived by Veginator.

The Pullback Shotty
The PAS is a great gun, most of us can agree. After all it is a freaking shotgun! However, I personally enjoy pullback guns like the crossbow and most sidearms. This mod converts the Pump Action shotgun to a Pull Action Shotgun. For some, it may also allow more spring additions because it provides a more convenient way of priming.

Materials:
+ PAS
+ PVC cement
+ 1 foot of 1/2 inch CPVC
+ 1/2inch CPVC Tee Coupler
+ 10/24" x 3/4" bolt
+ 10/24 Hex nut
Optional:
+ 1/4" x 1" Aluminum bar (minimum of 1 foot)
+ 6/32 x 3/8" screws
+ 6/32" taping bit



The Priming Rod


Sand down the rear of the priming rod until your cuts from step 2 can fit over it.



Mark and cut your CPVC to fit over the rear of the priming rod.


It should slide completely over the rear of the priming rod.



Drill a hole for the 10/24" bolt to fit through and attach the Nut on the other side and tighten.
Note: Do not over tighten. High tension results in stress on the CPVC and may result in fractures.


Mark the Stock with a line parallel to the priming slide where the stock grip would slide.
(I messed up the first time)

The Shell



Cut the Stock following the guides


Sand a hole in the rear so the CPVC can come out.




Mark and cut where you want the plunger rod to stop according to your hand size.


PVC Cement the Coupler to the CPVC so it is vertical.