dangman4ever

$15 at most since you can get a more up-to-date and cooler looking version of the Barricade for $15 shipped from Walmart:

https://www.walmart....laster/54808485

Is this an instance where solarbotics rm2 motors could come in handy using 4 nimh rechargable aa's?

My friend (owner of blaster) isn't too hardcore into nerf and doesn't feel like doing a rewire, resistors for lights/sound fx, seperate batteries for motors and light/sound fx, lipo or nimh packs, nor is he looking for top tier performance. Neither of us want to mess up or mess with the light/sound fx either.

All he really wants its a little better dart velocity (fps and range). not too worried about wind-up or re-wind up between shots. Just single shot velocity.

So as far as I know, that leaves us with using 2 imr's and 2 dummie cells with stock motors (hoping the little extra voltage won't destoy the lights/sound fx), OR using different motors that can deliver higher dart velocity (only single shot fps, not follow up shot/windup/rewind up) using stock 4.8 volts from 4 nimh aa's.

I know rhino's or 180's and lipo with full rewire is the best way to go and what everyone will suggest, but neither of us want to deal with the extra lights/sounds in the blaster since we are both big star wars fans....

So, out of the two combinations (2 imr 2 dummie aa stock motors /or/ 4 nimh aa and rm2 motors) we are considering, which would be best for single shot fps? Stock motors at 7.4v via 2 imr's, or rm2 motors at 4.8v via 4 nimh aa's?

We are thinking that the light/sound effects would prefer the 4.8volt rm2 setup more than the 7.4volt imr setup but not sure which would provide higher single shot fps (again not worried about windup, follow up shots, rewindup, just single shot velocity)

So tell me what you think.

The RM2 route would technically have slightly higher performance than stock motors at 4.8v. However, their lifespan are ridiculously short. Some people have reported their RM2 just surviving no more than one nerf battle. In terms of raw performance and overall reliability, IMR is your best bet. Only go with the RM2 if you're willing to open up the blaster and replace (not swap) the motors after every fight. Yes, they're that terrible. 

Also, note that the Captain Cassian Deluxe blaster is already being discounted/set to clearance at many Target stores around the US. They're ranging in price from  $25 to $40 (a lot less than the $80 MSRP). So if you're that worried about ruining a one of a kind blaster, you can get a better replacement now. 

INR should be ok. 

The charger seems fine. But I've never tried protected IMR batteries so I can't vouch for them. Nor have I ever heard of Olight IMRs so I can't vouch for them either. I can only vouch for the eFest IMRs. They were recommended by Bobololo:

https://youtu.be/iufP-rrmYgI?t=286

I used IMRs with the stock Stryfe wiring for half a year without an issue. Then I did a rewire since I saw firsthand that IMRs can burn out stock Rayven switches. 

I am def more interested in a milled aluminum cage than any plastic cages.

Is it generally agreed upon that non-canted are better than canted for accuracy and velocity?

Are there any aftermarket flywheels lighter than the plastic worker wheels?

Based on available information, ye non-canted are are better than canted.

No, pretty much all aftermarket flywheels weigh more than the stock and Worker wheels. The Worker flywheels are the lightest aftermarket flywheels out there at the moment.