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Member Since 15 Feb 2017
Offline Last Active May 01 2017 12:42 PM

Topics I've Started

Cycle Controlled Full Auto Stryfe

14 March 2017 - 10:14 PM

FYI, this is a copy/paste of the same post I made on britnerf.

This was a much easier project than the 180 Rapidstrike rewire, but nowhere near as straightforward. Since I was using 16awg wire throughout, I had to get creative in where and at what angle the wires were soldered to each other and to terminals. It couldn't just be "at that general angle", but with certain ones it had to be precise positioning.

Something to note about the XSW kit. The stock motor does not produce sufficient torque to brake well with motor braking but it is quite fast regardless. This means that live center cycle control instantly means runaway pusher, so dead center is a must when powering the stock kit pusher motor on 2s lipo. Nothing burned out when it went into runaway, but unplugging the battery and desoldering the live wire was required. If I replace the stock motor with a rhino or hellcat, I'll attempt live center again however, so I didn't snip the live cycle control wire and instead capped it with heatshrink so it can't get into mischief with other wiring in the meantime.

Here are pictures of the internal wiring and then a YT video of a 10rnd dump. I did bungle the trigger at the end but that was my finger's fault, not a hiccup in the internals.

Here you can see how I did the pusher wiring.

And the battery tray

And here's the firing demo:

I replaced the stock firing switch with a cherry dc2 10A switch, and I used a rolling level 5A microswitch from RadioShack as the cycle control. The pusher is powered independently of the flywheels because I don't require the safety included in requiring the flywheel switch to be closed in order to activate the pusher, and it makes it easier to test.

Reducing motor wear due to motor braking.

02 March 2017 - 02:05 AM

So I wired up a motor braking circuit in my rewired stryfe. Well, I notice that when braking I can see a flash of arcing beneath the motor caps (blade 180s). I don't want to wear out my motors but taking 5 seconds to spin down is annoying. Any ideas on how to gradually deliver braking current upon trigger release without using pwm & a board? Inductor in line on the braking lead to the negative line? And calculations on what inductor to use?

I really don't want to reduce my motors' life to a span of hours.

Rapidstrike 180 build debug help needed.

22 February 2017 - 11:08 PM

I have rewired my rs.

Edit: See below for full write up & detailed information of the problem.