IAmAPenguin

Hi, i would reccomend the Artifact anodised-aluminium boltsled paired with a NerfTurf 16kg longshot spring. (do they even make those anymore?) I had been using that combo in my main longshot for over a year and it always worked smooth and consistently. The boltsleds are made to a high quality, look nice and are intuitavely designed although they do come at a pretty premium price. The springs on the other hand, are some of the best around and are pretty affordable.
If you do plan to use a high yield spring, it goes without saying that you will also need a stronger catch spring. The NerfTurf springs do ship with some top-notch replacements though, so that should be the least of your worries.

Hope this was helpful.

I would recommend going with Fangs as they have better overall specs than the hyperion-X's, which are more of a budget solution for 132 motor upgrades. As for what LiPo to use, you have a few different options but i'll Just point out two that i know work extremely well.
You could go with a standard Turnigy 1000mAh 3s 30C pack for just 14AUD at HobbyKing or if your willing to spend abit more, you could upgrade to a Turnigy 1000mAh 3s 65c pack for 23AUD at HobbyKing. The graphene pack will get you slightly higher power density, allowing for a longer battery life over a standard pack as well as a much higher Discharge-current. Which ever one you choose just keep in mind that you will have to make some fairly major modifications to the stryfe battery tray to get your LiPo to fit.

I've had a friend test his janky drain blaster with a 20" barrel (tight fitting) and 25 pumps with an ACC gen2 hard tip stefan and it broke 475FPS so im guessing that thats probably around what you'd get out of a slightly shorter barrel and lighter darts such as cut down elites.

In my experience, the artifact gold cage isn't worth two shits. There is a long story behind this one but to simplify it for you, I spent 48usd on a gold cage and some artifact v2 flywheels and as soon as i whent to install them i realised that the flywheels didn't fit in the cage. it only uses v1 artifact wheels, artifact canted metal wheels and worker gen1 wheels. I kinda just shrugged this off and went to install the stock stryfe wheels.

I wired up a circuit with motor breaking and xp180's on 2S and took it out for a spin. As soon as i pressed that rev switch the sweet sweet purr of xp180's with well balanced flywheels and a metal cage flooded my ears. It was a subtle but loud and consistently high pitched sound. I loaded up an 18 dart mag with koosh and fired some off. Little did i know the true effectiveness and consistency the spin it put on the dart was, every single dart that left the blaster piddled out about 2m in front of me before resuming an erratic spinning motion that could only be described as what it would look like if papa-smurf were to attempt to excite the ladies after having one two many drinks at his 60th.

Enough said, the point I'm trying to get across is that this cage is terrible and hardly even usable and you should just go out and purchase yourself an artifact red cage and some hooligan fly-ass wheels and save yourself a whole lot of trouble.

Multistage setups can achieve ridiculous fps and consistency as seen by Eli Wu's 'hex' achieving around 200 fps on elites with a 3-stage brushless setup. I am currently planning a 3-stage, select fire, brushless rayven with 3 modified OFP 41.5mm cages printed in steel with worker high crush wheels and 9 various sizes of brushless motors climing to 60000rpm on the final stage. I would highly recommend trying a 2-3 stage setup using 180s or if you can afford it, brushless motors (though that is a very complex system). Im sure the community would love to see something like that in the future. Last thing, there is no need to use 2 lipos if you wire the 4 motors in parallel. You can simply just use a high-capacity LiPo with a high discharge rate (i'd recommend a Turnigy 2000mAh 65C graphene LiPo, either 2s or 3s depending on what motors you are using).
Hope you found this helpful!