Hello, I'll give a sum up of the question first, then explain stuff should one wonder why. In short, only the first gen Rayven is available in my country and it seems to perform less in reviews, so I wonder: "Can you actually swap the flywheel casing with the one from a Stryfe?"
So, better explained; the Rayven Elite and especially the Rayven Stinger are not available in my country. There is one webshop whom I found has a page for the Elite version but last time I sought for a hard-to-get Nerf product this way it turned out not to be available any longer. And this page too states it is not in stock... I fear the worst. So, only my local shop has an old Rayven still collecting dust on the shelf, but it makes me wonder if the flywheel casing has the same size as the one of the Stryfe, are they interchangable?
I really love the bullpup design of this weapon and it looks even more compact and comfortable than a Stryfe with a stock. Now I guess most would say to just grab better motors but it's just that there is a Nerf event this weekend and I'd like to use it there, so no time to wait for orders sadly. I guess most would advice against buying it but that still leaves me curious if the flywheel casings are the same or maybe slightly different and thus wouldn't fit maybe.
Edit: Silly enough, I did not look for internals images before making this post, and see now that the flywheel cases are indeed different, my apologies, only realized after writing this post. This topic can be deleted if deemed necessary.
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Hionimi
Member Since 15 Jul 2015Offline Last Active Jan 11 2016 05:58 AM
About Me
Just a silly bloke of 28 years old living in the Netherlands, I don't feel 28 though, I like toys and it shouldn't be a silly thing if you ask me, though I guess it is safe to assume that people on this forum generally think the same which is good! In my free time I also tend to draw a lot, people say I do it well and have been doing it as long as I can remember. And if not playing with toys meant for a younger target audience or drawing, you may find me gaming. :v
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Bad availability Rayven in the Netherlands...
29 July 2015 - 03:17 AM
Switches that fit and work
20 July 2015 - 03:08 AM
An idea that popped to mind, I see a fair share of topics discussing what motors work, but with the stock switches being rated only up to 2 Amps, it actually seems more of a hassle to find switches that can be fitted that allow more Amps than finding motors.
So, my proposal is a topic in which people can state what switches they've been able to fit in their Flywheel type Blaster, if I may be so free to do so. I do not have any myself and am still looking also. There's a lot of switches out there and the majority in the webstores in my country seem to come from the brand Cherry, but there are so many types, sizes, Amps allowed and voltage ratings that's it a bit of a gamble for me which to take at this point.
So I'll ask in this post as well if some of these readings are important or if some are perhaps negligible perhaps.
Taking an example switch, they have a few specifications, there are some that confuse me, like switching current inductive (in this case it reads 1.5 Amps, while the maximum is 10 Amps, would 1.5 be a minimum requirement for it to work?) and switch position. (Stating in the example switch that it's on/on, I assume that means that there are three contact and that both can give an on state, but one can be treated as off by simply not soldering a wire to it, correct?) Lastly, it seems none of the switches above 2 Amps are rated for as low as 12 Volts, but immediately bump up to 250 Volts, would they still work at lower voltages? I assume they do as I wouldn't see why they wouldn't still conduct electricity.
Anyway, I hope to find out more about switches and what to look for when searching for a suitable one, but at the same time to perhaps start a topic as an info source for other people looking for switches to get an idea what switches are known to work well and perhaps the easiest to fit. (As far as I'm aware there are no aftermarket switches that fit into the original mounting spot of the stock switches.)
Should people have additions for here, would they also please state in which blaster it was used, and optionally what function the switch has if not a motor spin-up switch and how difficult it was to fit it in?
So, my proposal is a topic in which people can state what switches they've been able to fit in their Flywheel type Blaster, if I may be so free to do so. I do not have any myself and am still looking also. There's a lot of switches out there and the majority in the webstores in my country seem to come from the brand Cherry, but there are so many types, sizes, Amps allowed and voltage ratings that's it a bit of a gamble for me which to take at this point.
So I'll ask in this post as well if some of these readings are important or if some are perhaps negligible perhaps.
Taking an example switch, they have a few specifications, there are some that confuse me, like switching current inductive (in this case it reads 1.5 Amps, while the maximum is 10 Amps, would 1.5 be a minimum requirement for it to work?) and switch position. (Stating in the example switch that it's on/on, I assume that means that there are three contact and that both can give an on state, but one can be treated as off by simply not soldering a wire to it, correct?) Lastly, it seems none of the switches above 2 Amps are rated for as low as 12 Volts, but immediately bump up to 250 Volts, would they still work at lower voltages? I assume they do as I wouldn't see why they wouldn't still conduct electricity.
Anyway, I hope to find out more about switches and what to look for when searching for a suitable one, but at the same time to perhaps start a topic as an info source for other people looking for switches to get an idea what switches are known to work well and perhaps the easiest to fit. (As far as I'm aware there are no aftermarket switches that fit into the original mounting spot of the stock switches.)
Should people have additions for here, would they also please state in which blaster it was used, and optionally what function the switch has if not a motor spin-up switch and how difficult it was to fit it in?
Flywheel engines, ideal torque, RPM and brand?
16 July 2015 - 03:31 PM
Hello, I'm looking to upgrade my Stryfe as my first upgrade project, picking the parts isn't the issue, except for the motors. It seems hard to tell what specifications are actually ideal. I read a lot of people saying the RPMs needs to be high, but I wonder, isn't torque more important? I imagine higher RPM would also eventually be pointless as it just makes the darts slip more and perhaps even wear them out faster rather than just shooting them faster.
I have my eye on the Tamiya Hyper 3, it features 1.9mN-m and 21,200 RPM at 3.0v, but also a draw of 3A... I guess this is multiplied with each motor added? (So in Flywheel Blasters it would end up drawing 6A?) I fear the high draw would not only mean replacing all the wires with lower gauge ones, but also replacing the switch(es). In another topic I read someone speculating the switches can only handle up to 2A...
Also, I hear some people saying Tamiya engines aren't any good, if this is true, what engines would be good then? I'm looking for just 130's as I'd rather not cut into the shell.
Another thing I need to add is that I live in the Netherlands, I could buy from e-Bay though I don't know what the taxes might do with some products, they taxes they tend to add are just not funny anymore and even make it more appealing to buy stuff from local hobby shops and actually get some decent warranty too while I'm at it. Of course that means brands like Tamiya are easier.
I have my eye on the Tamiya Hyper 3, it features 1.9mN-m and 21,200 RPM at 3.0v, but also a draw of 3A... I guess this is multiplied with each motor added? (So in Flywheel Blasters it would end up drawing 6A?) I fear the high draw would not only mean replacing all the wires with lower gauge ones, but also replacing the switch(es). In another topic I read someone speculating the switches can only handle up to 2A...
Also, I hear some people saying Tamiya engines aren't any good, if this is true, what engines would be good then? I'm looking for just 130's as I'd rather not cut into the shell.
Another thing I need to add is that I live in the Netherlands, I could buy from e-Bay though I don't know what the taxes might do with some products, they taxes they tend to add are just not funny anymore and even make it more appealing to buy stuff from local hobby shops and actually get some decent warranty too while I'm at it. Of course that means brands like Tamiya are easier.
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