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UnscrupulousModefiler

Member Since 18 Jun 2015
Offline Last Active Sep 16 2021 09:07 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: The Official Internals Directory

13 September 2021 - 06:28 PM

Buzz Bee Ultimate Missile Blast Internals (including tank internals):

 

https://imgur.com/a/aghCcIh

 

Hadn't ever seen the inside workings of a pull-pin tank myself, so dentured the dart and cut this one open.

 

The mechanism looks fairly easy to replicate with just one o-ring at the front and a tiny one on the pin at the rear forming the seal.

 

* Exhaust valve type: Pull-pin

* Tank volume: 60cc (75cc including connector-tube to the pump)

* Tank max. OD (at overlaping seam at waist): ø56.0mm
* Tank max. OD (main part of body): ø52.5mm

* Tank max. ID: ø48.0mm

* Tank max. external length (at valve seat): ø39.0mm

* Tank min. wall thickness: ≈2.0mm

* Pull-pin valve max. throat ID: ø11.4mm


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In Topic: Modification and Paintjob Pictures

06 November 2018 - 11:18 PM

Semi-enclosed priming-arm pump-action Retaliator

[Retaliator body, Longstrike barrel, Scatterblast pump-grip, ø6.4mm 304 stainless steel welding rod pump-arms, AR intact, Tek-6 spring, Raider stock, "SleeperScope" fully-functional red dot sight.]

Imgur album for internal pics. (Sorry not really good enough detail to do a proper write-up yet...) Mod uses no additional screws or bolts though - it's entirely about the fit of the bent rod inside the shells.

 

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In Topic: Ideal air-flow characteristics for a 6-shot absolver?

28 August 2018 - 03:38 PM

17/32nds brass might make for a better barrel material, as you'll be able to pack it more closely together with its thinner outer diameter. If you're just after 6 shots out of one shell and you don't mind messing with half darts, a three barrel absolver with each barrel double loaded might be an option to experiment with.

Hey thanks for the advice :) I've given brass a shot (haha) but the expense is crippling (I want to make a LOT of these...) plus there's the danger of denting a barrel if dropped. The (NZ/OZ standard size) conduit's working for me as far as overall absolver diameter goes because of the convenient "shell" I'm using to fit everything in - plus it's reeeally cheap. PTEG is my next option to try because I want to get Mega darts in as an option too. It's more the length of the whole unit that I'm trying to minimise now, so major issues I'm looking to explore will be around ideal barrel length (is a longer barrel of any benifit in an absolver??) and expansion chamber modelling. There's a super-stubby six-shot Elite/four-shot Mega half-dart shell in the pipeline... I'll post a build-log once I get cracking trying a few things out.


In Topic: Rayven "Flip Clip" Extended Battery-Tray Cover

25 November 2017 - 12:00 AM

...use a superflat surface next time Im trying to align parts rather than just eyeball it. And maybe pick up a jewelers saw...

 

Hey thanks! This was kinda the one thing I've worked out that was simple enough to finish nicely and document well.

 

Most of my good Nerfing tools are things you'd find in any decent jeweller's supply (Otto Frei or Rio Grande in the US). If you're looking at a jeweller's saw you probably want Cut #2 blades or thereabouts - finer blades tend to heat up in ABS due to friction and get stuck (the secret is to never stop in the saw-cut, but accept that you'll be breaking heaps til you get the hang of it...) Also check out these spiral sawblades - big teeth so a bit aggressive and trickier to control, but they allow you to cut in ANY direction without turning and won't clog or jam in plastics - very useful for roughing out. That flat file pictured (Cut #00 6" Flat Hand file) is about as precise as they come and has great teeth for ABS. And a W+D-sized sheet of thick glass (8mm+) as a general-purpose dead-flat surface for sanding and calibrating is a very handy thing.


In Topic: Modification and Paintjob Pictures

30 December 2016 - 07:45 AM

Work In Progress. "The HushPuppy" - Demolisher Bullpup. Built for balance and ergonomics as a more compact replacement for my Rapnadomolisher primary.

 

Current build-log here.

'Tater-Cam shell-disassembly vid here.

 

Shell: Demolipuppy'd Demolisher, Stampede "flash-suppressor" barrel attachment (Spectre inner barrel and mount), Strongarm grip, Stampede thumbhole, RS stock, Praxis barrel for battery tray.

 

Internals: Recon inner barrel, Artifact Red flywheel cage, Worker serrated wheels, 3x re-claimed FK180-3539 motors, RS pusher-box, 2x Samsung INR25R-18650 drop-in's in custom removable battery box.

 

Za7oSlv.jpg

 

RS pusher-box fitted, Firestrike motor-covers for FWC 180 motors, Nightfinder for pusher-box 180 motor, minimised RS stock:

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3v Tac-light and targeting LLLLLLLLLaserrrrrr mounted internally:

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Nightfinder voltmeter housing:

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