Find content
Hey guys i just built a kick butt longstrike loser with at3k internals replacement and am currently running the at3k tank up in the front of the gun and from the coupler i run a semi crappy breach i whipped together. I have recently been wondering if it is possible to run a hopper system on a at3k system (heavaly modified and extreamly powerful).
Has anyone ever tried this and succeeded?
pwr1
Member Since 19 Nov 2014Offline Last Active Aug 21 2016 08:27 PM
Topics I've Started
Retaliator CPVC barrel replacement
03 January 2015 - 03:49 PM
As far as I know no one ahs done a barrel replacement on a Retaliator and I wanted to try to do one just for Shits and Giggles.
Before starting i will ask you to watch the youtube video i am going to link because the priming of the blaster becomes a little unique.
http://youtu.be/eJxoj3rC2mI
OK now for what oyu have all been waiting for.
Materials:
CPVC ( 1 1/2' or more)
A philips head screw
Nerf Retaliator
Tools:
Screw driver
wire cutters
exacto knife
Step ONE:
Remove all screws from the retaliator body.
There will be two screws hidden under the charging slide at the font of the gun as shown here.
Step TWO:
Split shell and remove unnecessary locks
At circle one you will find two white locks remove both. so that it resembles the picture shown.
At circle two you will find two small screws on the bottom side of the very back of the bolt sled remove those and the pieces that come lose.
Step three:
remove all the internals so that the gun is empty except for the front muzzle of the gun
Next at circle three you will see a flap that blockes the barrel from being placed through. you will remove this by pulling out the pin that is holding the flap onto the muzzle of the gun.
step four:
next cut a piece of your preferred 1/2 CPVC to a length of 11"
step five:
next take the front barrel that the dart is loaded into originally and remove it from the bolt sled by sliding out the retaining pin.
then cut it down untill you get this (I used diagonal cutters). then drill a hole slightly smaller then the philips head screw you have tnto the same location shown in my picture.
Step six:
wrap e-tape around one end of the new barrel untill it fits snuggly into the front of the plunger tube as shown in circle 4
step seven:
next place the pice you cut out of the front barrel in step five back into the bolt sled and replace the retaining pin. Then place the bolt sled and plunger tube(with the new CPVC barel in it) into the retaliator shell after sliding the barrel into the bolt sled.
it should look like this befor being put into the retaliator shell.
this is what it should look like inside the shell.(Make sure the nub on the inside of the shell from the charging slide fits into the bolt sleds designated hole)
step eight:
with the plunger tube slid all the way forward, slide the charging slide all the way forward (if you cant you will half to trimm the piece cut in step five so it doesnt contact the muzzle piece.) once the slide and bolt sled are all the way forward mark with a permanent marker through the hole you made in step five onto the CPVC tube. drill out a hole of the same size as in step five. then line up the holes and screw in the philips head screw(I placed some CPVC cement onto the cut piece from step five and the CPVC tube for extra support.)
step nine:
replace all the necessary parts such as the spring, the trigger, and the catch. other then that like stated in step two all locks are unnecessary.
oh i forgot to mention you half to remove the dart tooth from the gun as well its shown in circle 5 i also circled the spring, catch, and trigger. showing how you need then obviously.
step ten:
now for the final step just put your gun back together and be sure to watch my video to see how it functions oh and you have to leave the rear plunger cover off which also means you cant use a stock. i am tryin to fix this glitch but for now this is how it functions.
Before starting i will ask you to watch the youtube video i am going to link because the priming of the blaster becomes a little unique.
http://youtu.be/eJxoj3rC2mI
OK now for what oyu have all been waiting for.
Materials:
CPVC ( 1 1/2' or more)
A philips head screw
Nerf Retaliator
Tools:
Screw driver
wire cutters
exacto knife
Step ONE:
Remove all screws from the retaliator body.
There will be two screws hidden under the charging slide at the font of the gun as shown here.
Step TWO:
Split shell and remove unnecessary locks
At circle one you will find two white locks remove both. so that it resembles the picture shown.
At circle two you will find two small screws on the bottom side of the very back of the bolt sled remove those and the pieces that come lose.
Step three:
remove all the internals so that the gun is empty except for the front muzzle of the gun
Next at circle three you will see a flap that blockes the barrel from being placed through. you will remove this by pulling out the pin that is holding the flap onto the muzzle of the gun.
step four:
next cut a piece of your preferred 1/2 CPVC to a length of 11"
step five:
next take the front barrel that the dart is loaded into originally and remove it from the bolt sled by sliding out the retaining pin.
then cut it down untill you get this (I used diagonal cutters). then drill a hole slightly smaller then the philips head screw you have tnto the same location shown in my picture.
Step six:
wrap e-tape around one end of the new barrel untill it fits snuggly into the front of the plunger tube as shown in circle 4
step seven:
next place the pice you cut out of the front barrel in step five back into the bolt sled and replace the retaining pin. Then place the bolt sled and plunger tube(with the new CPVC barel in it) into the retaliator shell after sliding the barrel into the bolt sled.
it should look like this befor being put into the retaliator shell.
this is what it should look like inside the shell.(Make sure the nub on the inside of the shell from the charging slide fits into the bolt sleds designated hole)
step eight:
with the plunger tube slid all the way forward, slide the charging slide all the way forward (if you cant you will half to trimm the piece cut in step five so it doesnt contact the muzzle piece.) once the slide and bolt sled are all the way forward mark with a permanent marker through the hole you made in step five onto the CPVC tube. drill out a hole of the same size as in step five. then line up the holes and screw in the philips head screw(I placed some CPVC cement onto the cut piece from step five and the CPVC tube for extra support.)
step nine:
replace all the necessary parts such as the spring, the trigger, and the catch. other then that like stated in step two all locks are unnecessary.
oh i forgot to mention you half to remove the dart tooth from the gun as well its shown in circle 5 i also circled the spring, catch, and trigger. showing how you need then obviously.
step ten:
now for the final step just put your gun back together and be sure to watch my video to see how it functions oh and you have to leave the rear plunger cover off which also means you cant use a stock. i am tryin to fix this glitch but for now this is how it functions.
