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Member Since 20 Aug 2014
Offline Last Active Dec 10 2020 06:04 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Cheap Mods?

10 December 2020 - 05:01 PM


14500 IMR's cost as much as to more than a LiPO, but aren't rated to handle the current draw of even stock motors. Using them is risking venting or burnout in the blaster (!). The other sizes might be fine, but aren't drop-in solutions anymore. Also problematic is the fact that IMR's aren't in the upgrade chain toward LiPo/NiMH/packs - if you use them, you'll just need to throw them away if you want to use upgraded motors/wheels/cages because they cannot sustain power to those systems safely.


A rewire with a LiPo (or NiMH, for the safety concerned who don't care about their batteries fitting stock trays) is actually really inexpensive if you can borrow a soldiering rig (likely) and either use an inexpensive charger or go in on one with friends. My first rewire cost $15 for everything I needed to use the stock cage/motors/wheels properly and within safe current draw for the battery pack.


Didn't bring those up though because $15 is still more than a spring swap, and opening a blaster, removing all the parts, and soldiering them in a different order is more skill than opening a blaster and replacing some of the parts.

im a bit late on my reply but...


when I rewired to remove locks i had enough wire in the stock wiring to double up and omit the locks bigger NEW wire is better but worked in a pinch. As for how much power li-mn can provide... 6.5 A and 9.8amp in a burst vs the 3A burst the stock motors pull...you need 2 that is 14 dollars it used to be A LOT easier at the time of my post to buy these batteries. But still 26650 which fit in a rapidstrike tray with modification and a spacer will deliver 30A constant... Now as for the mod to use 26650 in a rapidstrike two balls of aluminum foil on the springs to space forward the 26650 and you are good. 7.4v is not enough of a over volt from the 6v it is stock that the gun is not very functional. From there you can get into more in depth mods but 10$ for a pair of IMR batteries and .20 cents of foil get you started.

In Topic: Cheap Mods?

14 May 2018 - 02:34 PM

A dremel to build a brass breech isnt exactly machining hardware.

Anyway, the cheapest possible mods are probably rebarrels for single-shot blasters and spring spacers. Buying replacement springs isnt too expensive, but is usually as much as/more than the material for a brass breech.

It seems to me that springer mods can be cheaper than flywheel mods, but that doing a full workover on a springer is usually going to cost more/take more time than a full workover on a flywheeler.

If youre starting from nothing and dont have the cash to build up a stash of mags, a magnum superdrum or Zuru turbo advance are probably good blasters to start back up with.

I disagree a stryfe or rapidstrike or other flywheel with 18650 or 26650 or 14500 are by far easier than doing any springer mods... and the rewards are instant... pop a pair of 26650 into a rapidstrike with a inch thick spacer or mod the tray and dump a 2s or 3s pack of choice in the rapidstrike night and day better... and from there you can jump to a rewire, motors, cages, flywheels, and li-po mods, motor controllers.


My first mod was to drop a pair of 14500 IMR into a stryfe with a dummy battery i made out of wood glue paper and a copper wire in fact i made 2 dummies one 2 batteries long one 1 battery long. My next step was a semi rewire where i removed the thermal fuse and all the extra safety switches. Sometime after that i added a voltage monitor and hooked it into the jam door switch. My next step is upgraded wiring and perhaps flywheel and cage swap there is an aluminum set i was eyeing.

In Topic: Has anyone seen this yet?

24 October 2015 - 04:34 PM

The overall mods are not super difficult your other thread where you want a bank of these on a mounted platform is more involved. The hopper and extended mag is not complicated enough to need a write-up it is just going to take the longest the first time as you get the measurements down after the first one you can pre-cut all the pipe and slap them together. The bigger issue is you need to make a 3d printed hopper and the plan is not published for it yet. Your other option is to jank it out and cut up however many paintball hoppers to get it sized right. You might find something in automotive in the form of a funnel with a lid.

To do this mod from what i see the most difficult part is to rewire the blaster your going to gut the stock wire and put a connector up in the battery area or mod the battery area to use IMR batteries but since there is more to it we will go with a 3s lipo for about 12v stock motors should work fine after you clean up the wires.

First cut all the old wires out they wont be needed you will need a spool of 18 or 16 AWG i recommend stranded and in a soft silicon insulation rather than harder pvc they are about 6-10 Bucks for 6ft of black and red wire.
The wiring will go as follows:

red from battery to switch rev switch likely the center post the other posts one is for open position being closed the other likely the used one is for push to close at least most of the nerf switches are like this.
then red from other side of rev switch to the motors and fan
black from battery to motors and fan

The blower on the top of the hopper is to push the balls through the system it needs to be able to push air out the barrel hopper needs a close to air tight cap to build positive pressure behind the balls. To do a full auto mod a part needs to be removed and a small bit needs to be cut this can be done with a pair of wire clippers or even a sharp hobby knife or the dremel.

In Topic: Has anyone seen this yet?

24 October 2015 - 02:55 AM

The tools needed are not anything special...

zeus blaster @ $50 each
the clear tube is gonna be more expensive and not available to me it is about 24 per 6 ft section it would take about 4.5ft per blaster
4 90* elbows per blaster 4 dollars
1 t section 1 dollar
1 cap for t section 1 dollar
$5 the fan https://www.sparkfun.../products/11270
from there the full auto mod is free
the rewire and lipo 15 dollars in materials

So each blaster is about 102 in materials

the labor is not that hard but... time consuming i would say about an hour per kinda unfair to ask this to be done at cost.

tools needed:
soldering iron
needle nose pliers
saw or dremmel

In Topic: Rapidstrike Dart Issues

22 October 2015 - 10:17 PM

That's what I thought too. It seemed to have worked better stock. I'm going to get some better batteries for it and see if that helps at all, if not maybe a new set of motors... Kinda disappointed with the performance of it. I've done other battery upgrades and restrictor removals before and always the blasters have worked out much better in the past. Don't really know what the deal is with this one...

My guess is that the flywheels are spinning up at a much different RPM and tossing the dart either up or down into the barrel and giving it the wonky performance.

Humm you had to rebuild the end bell of one motor i wonder if that has anything to do with it try moving that one to the pusher?

Or replace both flywheel motors.