thechase

First blaster, first mod. Nothing too special here; ESky 180 motors, 2s Li-Pol which *just* fits in the stock battery compartment, 37 ammo drum, Vortex Nitron scope, 1mW laser diode in the front, 9 LED torch.

Paint turned out nothing like I wanted, the masking tape didn't stop line smudging so I ended up fading the white and black as best I could. I also discovered I'm pretty useless with a brush and oil paints as I couldn't remove the brush strokes on the scope. Overall I'm OK with it considering I've never really painted anything before - but I sure gained a lot of respect for people who can do this kind of thing well!

I can appreciate not wanting to hack your blaster apart and ending up with a poor finish so if you want to avoid 180 size motors then that is understandable. Be aware, though, that they are the simple solution to getting high torque from your blaster and any standard size motor will struggle to match the performance whilst normally providing additional problems (high wear rate, noise, etc).

That being said I would pay little attention to the operational speed those motors are rated at, it is no secret that without very high inertia in the flywheels torque is the main factor in a good blaster motor, furthermore operational speed can always be increased on any motor (to a point) by simply adding additional voltage and being able to supply the current demands. I haven't seen this article on Britnerf - but better brushes would no doubt help the reliability, though I would still retain 9.6v is far too high for such a wound motor;

http://www.technobot...or-upgrade.html

At 5v they draw in nearly 5 amps as it is, with two motors at 5v you will be needing a constant drain of 10amps from your Ni-cad pack - which is certainly obtainable but a 9v I'm not so sure, you could also expect a lot of noise, heat, etc at these high voltages.

All in all, my humble suggestion would be buy buy RM2's swap the brushes if you wish and buy a 4.8v Ni-cad pack and rewire the whole blaster with high capacity wires. I'm sure you won't be at all disappointed with the results.

Other people swear by Tamiya motors - maybe someone will chime in here about them? Personally I don't have any experience with them to give any advice.

I, like Azrael, would suggest 180 motors. Though my personal belief with RM2s is they will last for a good long time as long as you keep them at 5v - which is still plenty powerful; there is very little data supplied in the description of the motors you found on Ebay, so knowing how they would perform would be guess work until someone actually gives them a try!

These are the motors I use and they work astoundingly well on 2s and 3s Li-Pol and would recommend them highly; http://www.heliguy.c...earing-motor-B/

No access to a 3D printer unfortunately, and in all honesty I have no real desire to boot up ProE and then get a model printed somewhere else (likely at a vast fee). Hopefully someone will get around to making a reliable 200f/s kit on a 7kg spring - they'd have one customer right here .

Thanks for the responses guys,

I checked out your link Stoph and did a little research of my own on Oznerf; I found a brass breech system with an 8 kilo spring that seems to be getting roughly 135 f/s on a crony (I found a video) - still not much of an gain on my flywheel blaster in all honesty but realistically it's probably all I'm going to get. Thanks for the tips anyway.