xXhunter47Xx

Trying to remove the PCB on the motor terminals, I fucked up both motors in 2 different ways.
First motor fucked up because I pulled the motor cap off.
Second motor fucked up when I pulled it too hard and the terminal fell off.

Anything else I should take note of before I fuck it up even more? I haven't touched the cycling circuit so I hope at least that won't be fucked up.
In need of some replacement motors.

I'm planning to wire up a 9.6 volt battery to my rapidstrike, but I'm afraid I'm going to blow out the motors from increased voltage and/or current.

What do you guys run your rapidstrikes on? I don't think 9.6 would be enough to blow them out, but I'm not sure on the current.
It's a Ni-Cd 9.6 2000 MAH battery from Tenergy if that helps.

If you're using external propulsion such as a bow why do you need the plates?
As far as I know they're just used for a spring rest and a design utilizing bow power or other forces the plates are not needed.
You just drill a hole in the top of the actual cache and put a screw down the middle, and that will keep it from being bent out of place.

So maybe it has been established maybe it hasn't, but I want to know if I can drill a hole in the tank, put a micro line fitting and check valve, and attach it to a bike pump.

Similarly to the big blast pump replacement, but for a Buzz Bee Range Master.
It is a back pressure tank and I don't think it's possible, but I'm not experienced enough to figure out what to do.

Thanks in advance!

First off, I apologize if this is in the wrong section/completely wrong to post, but I just found a video describing how to make a check valve. This is not my work and again I apologize but I found it to be quite useful to the modding community.

Video here:

Read here for directions as per CoC.

2x 3/4" male PVC Slip adapter
3/4" PVC
3/4" acrylic ball
Rubber o-ring that fits inside the slip adapter
(I'd assume you can use different size pipes but the pressure ratings may not be the same with the varying size)


Push o-ring into slip adapter, where it rests on the ridge inside.
Then push marble into the o-ring, it should seat neatly on top of the o-ring, and should not go through. It should be just enough to give clearance for the PVC to slip into the adapter.
Because there is no way to retain the ball from falling out, we will make a ball stop similar to dart stops to stop vacuum loading, or in this case roll outs.

Make a mark 5/8" from the bottom (the end that goes into the adapter) and drill a hole, push a pin through. Standard stuff.

You'll need to test fit this, make sure the ball stop fits into the adapter. If it does not, modify it until it does.
when everything fits, PVC cement it together. Add second adapter on the open side, cement it.

You now have a homemade check valve for super cheap.

no pictures because I has problem with pictures currently.