DartSlinger

Everything about it is very nice. Here are some photos before the internals and locks removal.





It has the Stryfe's wonderful, middle-finger magazine release button.
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The foregrip seems Magpul inspired.



The stock has two settings: all the way out, and all the way in. It's quite comfortable, and one can actually get his face low enough to look through the ghost-ring sights.



In stock form, it fires roughly 216 darts per minute, which is quite a bit faster than a Stampede. I feature both of those in my review video, in case you're interested.

Internals





The flywheels: standard stuff.



The rectangular box that is above the trigger is the dart pusher. It works like this.



This is what it looks like when it is split open.



The worm gear on the end of this motor spins this gear on the bottom of the metal bar.



The small gear spins a large disc, which in turn moves the dart pusher back and forth. This video quickly explains it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hdR0a01VLmY

People have long used 5/8" spade bits to widen the inner diameter of 1/2" PVC so that one could hammer a barrel in. Spade bits are not designed to widen an orifice, and consequently, they work horribly. Most spade bits have spurs rising from each edge that aid in drilling holes into solid material. These spurs cause the bit to skip and jump around, though, when drilling into holes.



I looked around for normal drill bits that are 5/8", and I found that almost all hardware stores carry normal bits in 5/8". What makes a "normal" drill bit so easy to work with when drilling into pipe is its head. It automatically burrows in and centers itself.



Instead of the rough jagged widening that my spade bit would do, this bit widened the PVC almost as smoothly as a lathe would.



I got this set of bits at Harbor Freight Tools for $12.99, I believe. Well worth it, in my opinion.



These also work great for making CPVC speedloders, which involve the same widening. Another interesting thing is that these bits are twenty-five inches long, so you could sheath a whole CPVC barrel in PVC if you wanted to.

Some thrift stores use Sharpies instead of stickers to mark the price of their blasters. So instead of using sandpaper, which mars the blaster's exterior finish, I found this to work excellently.



You will need a blaster with Sharpie on it, a paper towel, and rubbing alcohol.





Wet your paper towel with rubbing alcohol and rub the Sharpie off.



It just comes right off! It's that easy!

Note: it comes off best if the Sharpie is written on smooth, glossy plastic. But even if the Sharpie is written on rough textured plastic (for example, the bottom of a Nite Finder handle) it just takes a bit of elbow grease to get if off.

The Air Zone Double Barrel Blaster is a Toys R us exclusive that can be purchased in-store and online (here) for $12.99. In my range test here, it got these ranges.

12' 6"

15' 4"

15' 4"

15' 6"


14' 8" Avg.










It has a two-finger priming pull, and it fires one barrel for each priming. It does not fire both barrels at once.



It has a hinging trigger instead of the usual horizontal sliding trigger. It is quite comfortable.





It has a nice double-barreled shotgun look to it.





Its darts are mongos that are 1" wide by 3.5" long.







Its foam is very thick and firm.

INTERNALS

To get to its internals you first have to remove the large orange cap at the end of the barrels. This is by done by simultaneously squeezing the barrels together and wedging a small flat-head screwdriver underneath the cap to disengage the cap from these two nubs.

Once getting the cap over those two nubs, insert the screwdriver into the front of the cap (There is a little hole in the front of it.) and press it down while pulling off the cap so that this nub is disengaged from the cap.

Now pull your cap off, and then slice through a sticker on the side of the blaster that also impedes opening it. Then remove the screws and it will come apart. Once you get your cap off, slice off, sand off, or somehow remove those nubs from the end of your barrels so that the cap will slide on and off.

This is the main part of the internals, and it can be easily removed from the blaster.

Here is the catch and spring rest piece.

Removed from the blaster.

When the catch is removed.

The plunger removed.

The plunger rod.

The way that the blaster works is this. The nub seen on the end of the plunger rod engages in these grooves on the plunger tube

and rotates the plunger. The plunger seals to the barrels through this gasket here, and the plunger rotates about that hole in the center of the plunger.

When the plunger rotates, it seals with one barrel at a time through these holes below.

Both barrels are one solid piece of plastic, but their air flows are not connected: they fire individually.

Here is a picture for reference of how the barrels and plunger tube go together.

DO NOT POST YET!

I began this about a year ago, long before I ever saw Venom213's custom Triple Shot grip here. After seeing his, I realize that it is clearly better in almost every way, so I advise you to use his method.

Anyway, here is the way I did mine.



Start with a piece of PVC as long as your pump grip. I used 1.5" Sch. 40 because it is quite large and easy to grip. A larger size could also be used. (So could a smaller size for that matter, but I don't know why you would want to.)



Measure the width of the area that the Triple Shot's grip goes over.



Mark out the width onto your PVC.



Using a 3d/architectural/engineering ruler, make the line along the length of your PVC. Then cut out the line. I used a hacksaw.



Then mark where your holes are and drill through them. You can see by my lines how I marked where the holes should be drilled. Measure twice, then cut.



Put your 10-32 bolts through. Attach each with a washer. Optional things that you can do are putting rubber washers on to not mar the PVC, and putting acorn nuts on the ends of the bolts.



Now that it is assembled, you can see where the ends nearest to the trigger are ramming into the frame. Mark how far down to cut, and then trim it down until it does ram into it anymore. I advise you to use a sanding drum, because a boring bit takes off too much material.





It is actually fairly comfortable on my hands, which are quite large.



A larger size of PVC, such as 2" would be even more comfortable on one's hands.

The main problem with this is the design. As it is, priming the Triple Shot torques the priming bar inside the Triple Shot down. Venom213's method prevents this by having polycarbonate pieces inside the priming slots.