charlie156

https://www.youtube....h?v=O2thSsQrZUM
 
 
http://www.carbon3d.com/
 
Could these (if someone bought one *unlikely* or found someone with one or otherwise got access to one) be easier/better/stronger/easier then all the other options listed here? 
 
As far as i can tell its better then:
 
3d Printing
Casting
molding (purely because price)
carving/whatever it is (CapSlug's Posts)
 
 
Please tell me what you think!

I have access to one. Not worth it. It's strength is only slightly stronger, and it's too expensive. Not worth it

I'm having a problem with my EAT, while modding it, i accidentally broke the piece that stops the breech from going back so now it will not prime back. does anyone know a way to fix this or a place i can buy  a new piece?

 we need picture to diagnose the problem/ 

 

I highly doubt that decades-old molds are just kicking around in inventory somewhere. Many of these companies likely never directly possessed the molds as well; Chinese manufacturing was a thing then as now and it's likely a Chinese manufacturer built and operated the tooling. Once the orders for the product stopped coming, the tooling was most likely recycled.

 

It may be possible to recommission the tooling from old files that Hasbro or some autonomous manufacturing company holds; but that's also pretty unlikely as you'd need to get someone who knew what and where they were and then who could update them to modern formats.

You must all remember that the 1995 KENNER nerf crossbow was NOT a hasbro patent. It was a Kenner patent, which was a branch company of Tonka which was a subcompany of hasbro. Not only would hasbro/"nerf" NOT have the design files of an over 2 decade, but the blaster itself was manufactured IN mexico, not china so similar to what meaker said, its unlikely the files or molds would still exists. That's also one of the reason why replicating this blaster wouldn't cause any legal issues, the issues are simply cost efficiency and actual strength of shell after production. 

Firstly, you don't need 1/2in brass. If you're going to get brass, 17/32 is the typical choice for stefan darts, and will sometimes be too tight for elite darts. This can be switched out for 9/16 brass which can fit for elite darts. Typically all you need is 17/32 and 9/16. For a brass breech, you have one of two options, 9/16 as your barrel, or 17/32 as your barrel. If 17/32 is your barrel, you can use the 9/16 on the bolt itself and it will sleeve over the 17/32 as a sheath, and when you prime forward, the dart will sit theoretically 50/50 in 9/16 and 17/32. If you're using 9/16 as your barrel, you have more options. you can use the 17/32 as the dart pusher, and push darts into your barrel and create a seal, or do the same thing as you would with the 17/32 barrel and 9/16 sheath, but instead with 9/16 barrel and 19/32 sheath.

 

So basically my suggestion is get 17/32 and 9/16 brass. don't really need anything else.

You could try cutting the pump off and replacing it. Or, get a tetra strike tank. That may work.