Kyhan

What do you mean by NIB Elites, and could you give me an example?

New In Box Elites. Basically an elite blaster in its stock form, so around the 70-80ft ranges.

As for the Bolt issues, according to this Xplorer product, the uneven one-handed priming and unnecessary stress is due to the size of the priming handle they give you with the stock blaster(4.3mm bar in a 4.8mm slot).

Theoretically, (assuming you don't want to pay out the ass for their priming bar), you can just get any metal rod that is ~4.75mm and mod that to be a new priming bar, which, due to the decreased slack in the blaster, should work with one-handed priming. Given, a pump-action mod would be much better, but I'm all for keeping the aesthetics of the blaster intact.

(I'm planning on refurbishing/modding/painting my friend's broken Longstrike for his birthday, so I've been following this thread).

Edit:
The 3/16" diameter Cold Finish Steel Round bars on this site should fit. You can get 2' for about $1.12 before shipping. For me, it'd be $13.90 with shipping, though. Seems like shipping is a flat-rate, so you might want to stock up on anything else you might need for mods too. Or you might be able to find it cheaper. Either way, it's a start—just look for 3/16".

Chances are the plunger body isn't moving forward when you fire. That would account for the dry firing sound and not having the darts leave the barrel. If the plunger body doesn't move forward then all the air will just go out the sides an never engages the barrel. Try taking it apart and reassembling it. It's possible that the plunger body may have gotten dislodged from it's track, which would make it hard for it to move forward. Also remove that e-tape as it just makes it harder for the plunger body to move forward. Hopefully that helps.

I was going to post some pictures, but it fixed itself when I re-assembled it, so there is no more issue. Thanks, though.

So, I recently did the internal aspect of this mod. After 3 shots, the blaster stopped firing; it almost sounded like it was being dryfired. It would only fire if I pulled the revolver back while pulling the trigger. I compared it to a stock blaster, and there was no difference in space.

Regardless, I figured out how to make it work. I layered a bunch of E-tape and cut a proper hole in it so the space was eliminated.



I shot side-by-side with a stock blaster, and the stock blaster actually had a good ~3-feet on the AR-removed version. 2/3 of the shots were a few feet behind the stock blaster, while the rest were roughly the same distance. I didn't have a tape measure, but it was obviously not working as well as the stock one, or promised modded range.

Though it works with the tape, I'd like to know what I did wrong, or what I could do to fix it.

Coop, which would you say works better: The motors from your writeup on 16v or the motors listed here running on 12v?

I'm considering which motors to install in my Stryfe and Rayven. I wanted to use the ones here, but if these motors are just going to crap out on me quickly (and under less voltage), I'd rather go for motors that can take a bigger beating while still giving me a similar increase in speed and range, and just bear with the shell modding.