ArcAngelXVI

This is certainly one of the most unique builds I've seen on here with a decidedly non-performance oriented goal. The choice of Rival HIRs over standard micros is a really nice touch considering what you've built this for, and the whole thing looks like a very well done functional prop.

All compliments aside, I'd really appreciate seeing some sort of reloading and firing demo when you get the chance. It might be cumbersome, but some of the most pointlessly difficult designs are also the most fun to use.

Exactly how soft are these darts in comparison to commonly available (and not so common anymore) alternatives? I'm not asking for any hard numbers, just a qualitative description a little more specific than "softest non OEM dart tip". If you have had experience with them - how do they compare to Pak-D's old stuff? Are they that much softer?

Also, would you be able to post a picture of the dart head without foam? The weight is similar to Pak-D, but I'm curious about the stem length since we all know that the overly long stem of streamline darts made them god awful.

maybe so, however, as far as I can tell, if you leave the lock in the priming issue doesn't occur (granted, not much testing along those lines was done, so that could be entirely wrong)

From what I surmise, this is more or less a suggestion for those who want lock free operation (for, say... depriming) but also have a need to prime with the right-hand bolt.

That being said, a less destructive method I learned elsewhere is to leave the lock piece in, but fix it within the shell in it's "open" position. And knowing that, I don't see a reason why anyone would attempt this mod when an equally effective and easily reversible alternative is available.

Oh, and a bit of background knowledge:
The priming issue is a result of the bolt sled deforming under load, and shifting laterally within its running rails. When you remove the double-priming lock, you end up removing a piece of plastic that actually shims the bolt sled "tail" into place to make sure it doesn't catch on any shell walls. This is a reason why metal bolt sleds (and really anything which is much stiffer) don't exhibit this problem - they simply will not deform enough to "catch". It's also why it's completely possible, albeit annoying, to counter this problem by applying torque to the bolt handle as your prime.

The original ABS bolt nub sheered off and broke, so I went ahead and remade it from polycarbonate. Also decided to make a collar for increased stability.

If you can find it, look for some form of foam rubber. It has similar properties as normal rubber, but is more more compliant when it comes to compression - it'll act more as soft padding than a semi-hard layer.