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nine

Member Since 10 Oct 2011
Offline Last Active Oct 20 2019 01:48 AM

Topics I've Started

Reliably Hoppering Silicone Darts

01 April 2014 - 07:11 PM

So I had seen Kane's video of firing darts backwards out of a hopper, where his slug darts fired reliably regardless of orientation. I decided to try a similar test with silicone domes, and my findings may have solved the current problem of wanting safe darts that also fire from hopper clips. As it turns out, one can load silicone stefans with a significantly sized head into a hopper clip and still fire reliably.

The phenomenon can be observed in this video:



I am using a homemade wye, but it does have a close to 45 degree angle that the dart has to bend around.

Again, all it takes to fire silicone tipped darts from a hopper is to load them into the hopper clip backwards. The darts turn around in the air a few meters in front of the blaster, but they seem to stabilize fairly quickly afterwards.

Cheap and Simple Mobstacles

18 August 2013 - 04:22 PM

Hello everyone, I just finished making mobstacles for my upcoming Nerf war, and decided that I would share my process of making them. I designed them to be smaller and harder to hide behind in order to promote active gameplay, but you can always modify the design if you want. Anyway, shall we continue on to the writeup?

Materials:
1/2” PVC
1/2” PVC Couplers
Tarp
Rope (1/4” Nylon works well for little cost)
Hot glue
Duct Tape
Scissors
Hack Saw
Zip Ties
Hole Punch or similar device
Measuring Tape

First, you are going to want to cut your PVC to your desired length. You need three pieces of PVC for each mobstacle. I went with four-foot lengths, again, to promote running rather than camping behind these.

I think you can figure this out without pictures.

Now that you have your PVC cut, you can start with the assembly.

Tie a knot like so in one end of your rope:

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Now roughly measure how much rope you will need to send it through an entire piece of PVC and loop it at the end:

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Use some hot glue to secure the looped end in place.

Now, measure how much rope you will need to pass through two pieces of PVC, as well as to tie a knot at either end.

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Tie a knot at one end of the rope, thread the other end through one empty piece of PVC, through the loop that you glued in place earlier, and back through the second empty piece of PVC.

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Tie another knot at the other end of the rope, or glue another loop if you didn’t quite measure enough.

Now that you have all of the “legs” tied together, we need to make sure that they form an equilateral tetrahedron. Use your measuring tape to mark out a triangle on your floor with the same dimensions as your sides. Stand up your pipes on those marks:

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Now run rope through all three loops at the ends of the pipes, tying a knot after it meets itself where you started:

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You should now have a solid frame for a mobstacle:

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Now, if you want these to actually be obstacles rather than just random PVC pyramids standing in your field, you need to fill the gaps with some sort of material. Blue camping tarp is a cheap, strong and effective material for this task.

First, measure out triangles of the same size as the triangles in your mobstacles in your tarp. Use duct tape to mark where you want to cut. You may have to cut two half-triangles and tape them together, for this allows you to use your tarp more efficiently.

Sorry that I don’t have any pictures of this part, but you should end up with triangles of tarp like this:

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Now that you have your tarp cut out, punch a hole in each corner of three triangles. The next step will be easier if you put your holes closer to the edges.

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Now, use your zip ties to attach the triangles to the frame. Put your zip ties through all of the holes present at each corner, including the rope loops.

Top intersection:
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Bottom intersections:

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Just to ensure that your tarps don’t flap around in the wind, punch a hole through two tarps near the center of each side and send a zip tie through both tarps and around the PVC.

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Do basically the same thing for the bottom, zip tie the tarp to the rope:

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Finally, clip the ends from your zip ties and you are done!

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I easily made four of these in one day, and they each cost about $15-$20.

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Also, they collapse really well for easy storage:

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Any questions? Comments? Flames?

S.W.A.E

18 August 2013 - 01:37 AM

S.askatchewan
W.est
A.lberta
E.ast

Where:
Lloydminster, AB. Bud Miller all seasons park, in the picnic area to the north. There is a shelter there that will keep us out of the sun between rounds.

http://maps.google.c...sp=1&sz=16&z=15

http://maps.google.c...sp=1&sz=16&z=18

I'm not quite sure how to embed maps, but these ones show the route coming into town from Edmonton on Highway 16.

When:
August 26th, 11:00 - 3:00

What to bring:
Nerf Blasters
Water
Snacks/lunch
Ammunition, Slugs will not be allowed.

Eye protection is mandatory.

What not to bring:
Slug darts
Military style clothing/anything that makes you look like you are dangerous
Blasters painted black
Bad attitude
Paintball/airsoft/real weapons

Other Info:
A hit is defined as a projectile coming to a complete stop and dropping to the ground. Grazes do not count.

Only call a hit when you are 100% sure you made the hit.

Gun hits do not count.

If a hit is called on you, you are required to accept it. This is to keep games moving and to combat bickering. If you believe somebody is being untruthful, talk to me after the round and I will deal with it.

Melee weapons may be thrown

Large ammo may be thrown or fired from a blaster.

Hopefully all of you Alberta Nerfers can come hang out, it should be a blast.

Attendees:
nine+4

Looking for Interest in Eastern Alberta Nerf War

02 August 2013 - 11:20 PM

Well, I know that this probably should be posted in a Canadian Nerf Forum, but this will have to do seeing that canadiannerfers.ca isn't active anymore.

I have recently been very interested in hosting my own war in the Lloydminster area of Eastern Alberta / Western Saskatchewan. Seeing that my community seems to have very little interest in nerf blasters, I wanted to see if there was anybody out there who would be willing to drive out and hopefully have a good time. As a frame of reference, Edmonton and Saskatoon are both about two and a half hours from Lloyd.

I will probably be hosting by mid to late August, so be sure to notify me if a certain date or range of dates works for you. I have a venue selected that should be fairly good for the purpose, and have a few backups locations within walking distance.

Buzzbee Panther Arm Cannon

02 January 2013 - 11:54 PM

Now I’m sure that mostly everyone is tired of seeing the same old panther mod: Slapping on a coupler or bushing and calling it good. However, this mod is something both 100% original and awesome.

My apologies if this doesn't count as a homemade, but I did create everything but the tanks and check valves.

Here’s what we’re making:

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Pick your jaw off the desk, scroll down, and enjoy the writeup.

First off, Here’s what you will need:
Buzzbee Panther x8
Pipe that you can slide your hand into comfortably (I used 3” PEX)
Tape
¼” vinyl tubing (lots)
½” PVC endcap x4
½”PVC
½”CPVC
Dowel that will fit inside CPVC
Two part epoxy (lots)
Hotglue gun
Hotglue
Connecting t’s for tubing x7
Electrical tape
½” PVC coupler x4
Bike pump
Thick metal rod
Conical sealing bit
Small springs
Sharpie
Dremel with assorted bits
Drill
Pliers
Sidecutters

First off, we will be making the part that holds the panthers together and on your arm. To make this, I used 3” PEX pipe to create a nice solid mount for the tanks. I would recommend that you use whatever size pipe is most comfortable.

Start by cutting the pipe to your preferred length, most of this is preference based, but I cut mine down to this length:

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Now mark out where you want to cut the pipe so that your hand will fit on the handle:

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Cut out the marked areas

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And sand down the edges nice and smooth:

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Now for the handle.
I did this by drilling a hole through the pipe big enough for a dowel to fit into, and then fit cpvc on top of the dowel.

It turned out like this:

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To evenly space the tanks, I wrapped tape around the base pipe once like so:

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Took it off, marked eight evenly spaced lines, and then transferred those lines to the base pipe:

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Your arm mount is finished for now, lets move on to the tanks.

First, separate the tank and pump from the trigger like so:

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Save this piece from each tank:

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As well as two of the pumps you cut off.

Mod the tank however you want, though I would recommend keeping that ring for use as a spacer when you attach the tank to the arm mount.

Glue your tanks on like so, and epoxy a length of tubing into the back of each one:

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(Yes this is only four. It’s a lot easier to see than with eight.)
In order to allow the tanks to be fired off of one trigger, we’ll need to create some air splitters.

Cut off all of the ends of two tees, like this:

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(You only need to do this for one if you are only using four tanks)

Just cut off the botton end of four others,

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and epoxy them all together like so:

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Glue four tanks to each end of the splitter. If you plan on using eight tanks like I did, you'll need to make two splitters.

Now it’s time to rig up the check valves.

Take one of your tees and attach a length of cpvc to both ends of the tee.

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Now cut off the check valves from two panther pumps.

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Wrap the two lengths of cpvc in electrical tape:

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And glue on the two check valves:

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Because the original Panther triggers didn’t provide enough airflow to vent four tanks at once, I made my own backpressure triggers that could handle the large amount of air.
First, drill a hole in one end cap like so:

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Be sure that it allows your metal rod to slide freely.

Now cut a length of PVC long enough to seal one end cap on either end, and epoxy the recently drilled cap to one end.

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Once the epoxy has cured, drill four ¼” holes in the attached cap, making sure to go through the PVC as well:

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Ream out the end of the PVC just a little to create a better seal:

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E-tape and glue a piece of brass just inside the PVC to prevent your seal from popping through the pipe:

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Take the second end cap and drill two ¼” holes in it as shown.

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Epoxy in some tubing and add a spring to the bottom:

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Please wait for part two.