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NerfNoob10

Member Since 19 May 2011
Offline Last Active Jun 03 2014 05:15 PM

Topics I've Started

Modified Cobra

08 December 2012 - 05:47 PM

So I was asked to make someone a cobra for a commission but found that the Cobras traditionally used are no longer made and Lowes now makes a new model. SO I can up with this. Let me know what you think.

So first take you cobra and cut off the little bulb at the end where the attachments go as were not going to be using it to clean toilets.
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Now were going lightly sand the remaining nub and base like so.
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Once its nice and sanded, clean it off so there are no plastic particles left and epoxy on your half inch PVC coupler. Now the trick here is that the coupler is a bit bigger than the nub so I used putty first around the nub to fill in the gap and another ring around the base of the coupler, then let that dry, and went over that with a Stronger clear epoxy, so you end up with this.
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And from the front.
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Now you're going to want to cut out two small pieces of 1/2 inch PVC a little longer than half an inch and connect two 1/2 inch PVC elbows like so.
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You want to make sure the two elbows are perfectly lined up so I suggest grabbing some of you barrel material and putting it in the top elbow and attaching it to your Cobra to tweek it.
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Once your barrel is strait in there, glue the two elbows together with super glue.
The next step is to remove the stock trigger.
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Then sand down the little nubs of plastic left.
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Well get back to the trigger later but now onto the handle. I used a raider priming grip because I had a raider shell with no internals laying around, you can use any handle you want but I'm going to show you what I did.
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First thing is to cut down the handle so it looks like this.
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Now this part is optional, but I figured since the handle would be supporting all the force of you pumping the blaster I should probably secure it better than just with epoxy. I decided to use a metal hose clamp. SO the first set is to cut a hole in either side of the handle for the clamp to go through like this.
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and here with the hose clamp in it.
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Now lets get rid of that hose clamp just temporarily while we epoxy this handle to our cobra. I just layered my epoxy on there nice and tick and ended up with this.
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Remember that trigger that we cut off, were going to cut it down to look like this, and also sand down the button that releases the air so its flat.
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Now were just going to glue that trigger onto the button. It's not the best trigger, but it gets the job done and its simple.
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And your done. Throw on a three foot barrel or any barrel system you want and let'er rip.

Now for some reason I can't find a picture of the finished blaster, but when I find them I'll post them.
Hope you enjoyed.

PhotoBucket Issues.

08 December 2012 - 03:59 PM

EDIT: I found the problem. I don't know why but the new version wouldn't let me copy the right link, however I found in the top right corner of the page you can switch back to the original photo bucket and that works fine. I am on windows vista and my browser is Google chrome, not sure if that matters but just in case. Hope this helps if anyone else runs into this problem.

Ok, so I was really hesitant to post this, but since it's in off topic hopefully the worst thing is I make myself look like a total dumb ass.

So I just finished doing a write up for my new Mod but when I hit post I got a response "You are not allowed to use that image extension on this board." I was just using photo bucket the same as I have always done for my other posts, so i was a bit confused.

I took a closer look and found that photo bucket has changes a bit. and the url now starts with beta. So do photo bucket pictures now just not work with nerfhaven since the change to their site?

I looked back at my old posts and found the pictures still work. So I took a look at the links and found that they are pretty different.
Old working link: http://i1189.photobu...nt/IMG_0060.jpg

New Broken link: http://s1189.beta.ph...tml?sort=3&o=27

Now this is supposedly the same exact link. I did the same thing I always do to get the link which is right click on the picture and click copy link address. So why did photo bucket give me a new link when I did this now? And if there is a new link, why does the old one still work?

Again sorry if I'm coming off as stupid and this is a really simple thing that I'm just not getting, but I could use your help, so if you know whats going on or how to fix it please let me know.

Air Tank Reinforcement

11 September 2012 - 10:48 PM

I recently found that on of my air tanks was leaking out of a hole that had developed out of a small crack I never noticed in the tank. At this point I decided it was time to reinforce the tank like MIG did. I was all ready to do this but brought the topic up with a co worker who works on repairing boats. He sugested instead of cheese cloth I use fiberglass mesh or carbon fiber mesh as it is significantly stronger. Here is what I ended up doing.

SO first you will need gloves, epoxy (pretty much any kind will work), something to mix your epoxy, fiberglass or carbon fiber mesh, and fiberglass beads.

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Close up on carbon fiber mesh (left) and fiberglass mesh (right)
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Now first you want to get your air tank (either cracked or new), I chose an Air tech 2000 tank
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And just give it a light sanding all over. Be gentle, you don't want to damage the tank, just give the epoxy a better place to grab.
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Now measure out the dimensions of your tank and cut out a top, bottom, and side piece of your mesh. When working with your mesh be sure to wear your gloves as the fibers easily break apart and can cause itching and some irritation if they get on your skin.
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Now unfortunately at this point it got hard for me to take pictures because I was covered in epoxy and It was hard to keep taking off my gloves to pick up the camera and get a picture. But what you do at this point is called "wetting" the mesh. And all you do is mix up your epoxy and squish it over your mesh making sure to completely cover it and fill all the gaps and spaces. You can now pick up your mesh and wrap your tank in it like this.
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Now in order to get the top and bottom of the tank I cut the mesh into 4 strips and places them around the top folding over the extra tot he sides like so.
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Now your going to want to let this dry, or if your like me and extremely impatient let it mostly dry before moving on to the next step. Once dry were going to cover it with reinforced epoxy. We make this by mixing in our fiberglass beads with our epoxy. This gives the epoxy some structure and rigidity.
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Use a pile about the same size as the amount of epoxy your going to use.
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AT this point my friend helped me take pictures while I worked.
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You should start to see the beads becoming incorporated into your epoxy.
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Until finally it looks something like this. A very very thick epoxy.
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Now just coat your entire tank in this stuff and your good to go.
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Wait until it has completely hardened and congratulations, you now have a ridiculously strong air tank. At this point every thing else will fail before your air tank like the tubing or pump or firing pin, so don't think you can now bring your tank up to insane pressures because something will break, it just won't be your tank.

So overall MIG method is probably fine for normal use and easier and uses more available materials, but if you want the absolutely strongest Air tank just short of one of robomans aluminum tanks, this is the way to go. Hope you enjoyed the write up and feel free to let me know what you think.

30 round Absolver/shotgun attachment

21 August 2012 - 10:11 PM

I would like to start off by saying yes this has been done before and I am in no way trying to take credit for the idea, I only thought I would post this write up to show how easy these are to make. That being said I forgot to take pictures while making it so all the pictures are from after it was already made.


The first thing you need is a distributor that splits 2 inch into 6 half inch ports.
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Like this
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Then your going to need a 2 inch to half inch reducer in order to attach this to you nerf guns assuming they have half inch couplers.
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And just shove than bad boy into the back of your distributor like so.
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Now lets get started on the inline clips. First you need to cut a half inch PVC coupler in half.
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Once you have your half coupler you want to place it over the distributor and mark there the coupler lines up with the out put to its right and left like so.
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This is so you can sand down the coupler in order to make all six fit next to each other like this.
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Now that you have your six sanded half couplers lets get started on your inline clips. This is easy just take a piece of half inch PVC and line up how many darts you want to fit, mark it and cut it. I made mine fit 5 darts. Sorry no picture just yet.

Once you have your clip and coupler sand out the cut half of the coupler so that you can fit it in the PVC clip and epoxy it on only about an 8th of an inch deep.
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At this point you should have something like this.
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Now all you need is your barrel. I chose PETG nested in half inch PVC. I won't go over this because you can use any barrel you want, but it should be in PVC so it will fit into the couplers you just made.
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I like to sand out the inside of the barrel to make dart loading easier, but I suppose this is optional.
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Put everything together and you're done.
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Now what makes this so great is the fact that all the pieces are removable and exchangeable. 30 rounds may work in a Titan but what if you want a shot gun for your big blast. Well that what this is for.
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Just get a 1 inch to four half inch distributor and put a 1 inch to half inch reducer in the back of it like this.
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Now take all the pieces you just made and swap them over to this guy and you have a 20 round shot gun attachment.
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You can even take the clip section out and just have a six shot attachment or a four shot attachment. Adjust any part to your liking and build the shot gun attachment that works best for you and your nerf guns.

Here is a video of me shooting mine.



This is my first write up so please leave feed back and let me know if there is anything I can do better in my next write ups.

Thank you

McMaster Carr Guide

17 May 2012 - 02:33 PM

Ok so I feel like I can't be the only one who finds McMaster Carr incredibly frustrating to navigate and find exactly what I need. I thought It would be very helpful to make a Guide here where people can post likes to specific items that moders would find useful. I personally only know of a few things, but I will get it started and post what I know, and if people could post other useful links I will add them.

Springs

Name: [k26] 9637K26
Notes:Very powerful upgrade spring, requires reinforcement.

Name: [k25] 9637K25
Notes:Good general upgrade spring for many nerf blasters.

Name: K14 9637K14
Notes: Stupidly strong. Almost always used in homemades because factory plastic can't take it.

Name: K45 9662K45
Notes: Similar in size, but stronger than K25s, and cheaper.

Name: K34 9662K34
Notes: This looks to be a possible middle ground between the [k26] and K14.

Name: K31 9662K31
Notes: Similar in size to [k26] but cheaper.

Tubing

Name: PETG 2044T43
Notes: Good airgun barrel material, slightly larger than CPVC

Name: Clear PVC
Notes: Exactly what the name says, pick the desired size/diameter.

Other:

Name: Push Nut Fasteners
Notes: Used to replace fastener on ERTL rapid fire shotgun rotation mech. (I personally don't know exact one you need)

Name: Polycarbonate Sheets
Notes: Clear sheets of polycarbonate used in some homemades.