spacephrawg

Anyone got any tips for this project? I want to replace the slamfire grip on the Rampage with the tactical foregrip from the Retaliator but i want to make it so i can still disassemble the whole blaster.

I'm going to make a wild guess and say that the wide orange part of the slamfire handle at the top of the part that you grip, where the screw is, is narrow enough, if cut down, to fit inside of the retaliator grip, assuming the rest of the slamfire handle is cut away.

I want this thing to be strong enough that I can still prime it when i have a 5kg spring in it. One thing i was thinking of was only screwing the tactical grip onto one half of the top part of the slamfire handle (the part that actually touches the rest of the gun. However i'm not sure how strong that would really be.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

What is the best way to make these things not creak? I'm going to be putting the Remedy Metal full kit in one of them, with a [k26]. It will also have an Xplorer shotgun grip. Lots of forces will be applied to that thing. Another one is going to have the OMW full kit in it. You get the idea.

The ones i have are used and stock, never opened. They creak when you pick them up, they creak when you put them down. They creak when you aim them at someone too. What should I do?

On a FB group I'm on, someone suggested I hot glue a lot of foam backing rod in there but that isn't going to stop the body flex. For a moment i considered using the Smoothcast 300 resin that I have but that gets up to more than 212 degrees when it cures, according to the technical data. For casting, Nerf's ABS plastic is heated to 400 degrees so they can squirt it into the molds. OK fine but I've heard of ABS RC boat hulls' decks warping in 98 degree sunlight before.

I will test the resin on a blaster i don't like but I'd like to know if there's another way i can solve my problem that doesn't involve such high heat. Also resin isn't cheap. What do you guys think?

I would have added this in my other thread about this but I don't think the forum software would count the topic as updated unless i posted a reply and i was already the last poster on the thread. I guessed that two successive posts from the same person isn't kosher so here i am.

So I asked the guys over at Griffin Mods about the problem, that being that with increased spring tension or the new OMW spring, an elite blaster's plunger head can eventually crack from all the increased impact. Griffin mods had this to say:

[edited to explain acronyms]

"I have not herd of this happening anywhere else and without actually inspecting the damage I can only speculate as to the cause and solution. I know that I have used mine (with Dead Space reduction) almost constantly since the spring came out with no issue. I would hypothisize that with no Air Restrictor and the stronger spring, the repeated impact of the the ring on the inside of the Plunger Tube agenst the thin lip on the edge of the plunger face could be the culprate. in this case the DeadSpace reduction would prevent the damage; as the ring inside the Plunger Tube is striking the rubber O-ring instead of the plunger face.
Another option is NOT to remove the AR. I have not tried it myself, but have heard several reports that even with a more powerful spring the AR in the Elite blaster has very little negitave effect on ranges.
"That being said; OMW preformed 100's of test fires before releasing the spring and I have put mine through plenty of use both with no issue. My guess is that there is another factor to your friends issue that he is not considering, but thats just a guess."
"I hope this was helpful and please excuse my poor spelling"

By the way the deadspace removal mod tutorial they did can be found here:


Seems legit. What do you think?

http://www.avesstudio.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&product_id=28&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1

I've used it for art purposes and its a favorite in model building and prop-making circles. It's extremely strong and dense. The only two draw backs are that it takes 24hrs or so to dry fully and that because of its strength and density, it takes longer to sand.

What are your thoughts?

Sorry i have no pics. A guy i know reports that after some time using the OMW 5kg spring in his Retaliator, he's got a crack in his plunger head. I asked him if he thought it might be preventable if he completely filled the depression in the plunger head with epoxy putty or hot glue and he said maybe but the depression is there for a reason re: the actual priming of the blaster. Is that so?

Meanwhile Griffinmods on Youtube came up with a dead space removal for elite blaster plunger tubes:



That mod as you can see, requires reducing the size of the leading edge of the plunger head's gasket-retaining rim just a bit. Would that help?

If not, is there a way to pad this thing or otherwise prevent cracking and eventual destruction?