Ivan S

Great mod! Funnily enough I also modded a barricade to full auto with legos a long time ago, except I used two rotating arms to pull the darts out of the clip. If there's one good thing about flywheels, it's their ability to do full auto. I hope we see more stuff like this in the future.

Here is a cheap hi-torque one www.rchobbiesoutlet.com/03011-hsp-rc540-engine-motor/ or you can go look for a specific one here http://hobbyhobby.co...ectric-Motors/.

Robot marketplace has a lot of geared motors, some of which look appropriate for your application. They aren't cheap by nerf standards, but they aren't industrial prices either. Geared motors generally aren't cheap, as they need to have very small, very strong parts to do their job.
http://www.robotmark...ors_geared.html

Thanks for the recommends guys. I'm sure I'll find something now.

Last but not least I would power the motor with a LIPO battery (a 3s would be best). I really hope this helped you.

Efests can discharge up to 7A with good performance, if I use a motor that needs more current I'll switch. Do LIPOs have any other advantages?

Have you tried finding a lower torque valve?

Also. I'm not Captain Slug, but it would seem to me that at some point you are going to be rotating it so fast the the "firing tank" won't have enough time to prime before being closed off again. I have no idea if you are even anywhere close to this or not but it could happen.

Something like this http://www.mcmaster....4373k53/=t5lssd

Thanks for the idea, but unfortunately all the brass 3-way valves I could find have a mid-point where all three pipes are connected, which makes the whole tank dump out the barrel. In order to avoid that, the axis of rotation needs to be inline with the middle pipe, which I've only found in this plastic one.
Outpacing the priming speed may become an issue, but it hasn't been yet and if it does I'll increase pressure to compensate. Using a ball valve instead of more advanced valves like solenoids leads to issues like that, but I couldn't resist the idea of a fully automatic blaster this simple, so I at least wanted to try it.

Sorry to get back to you guys late, classes etc.

Nice writeup! Have you tried making a hoppered version?

Thanks! It works just fine with a hopper, I use an RSCB in the writeup purely to avoid requiring a wye.

You could actually shape this ergonomically with different pieces of pipe and fittings, both the air tank and air outlet can be in any configuration you'd want since it's just PVC. I'm debating making one of these but just shaping it like a Mad Ghost myself.

Definitely, there is a lot of flexibility in layout. I prefer the tee shaped handle as opposed to the elbow because it's easier to drill a straight hole in a tee than an elbow, but either can work.

This might be silly but how do you actually hold it with your trigger hand? It looks like it would be uncomfortable/ slightly difficult to hold.

Good question, I hold it like this:

It's comfortable for me, but if you want more hand room you can make the stub between the tee and cap longer. Fill it with hot glue if you're worried about dead space.

I am familiar with how to use this type of blaster, I have several WNTS's. I was asking about stuff like ranges, fps, etc being affected by the OPV because even if its a super easy build, if its still outclassed by 20 feet at every turn its going to be replaced with a loaner during competitive wars. Do you have any comparison data to this blaster's stats if you do not have an OPV at the same number of pumps? I understand that would be like building a WNTS, but with the well nut turned around it may probably outclasses the WNTS capabilities due to increased airflow. And you still havent answered on the ranges- can you get them?

I took some readings without the oprv and with the same number of pumps, muzzle velocity is the same.
I haven't done range tests, but if you want to match up velocity with range, you can look here and here. The chart shows 210fps is pretty standard for competitive guns; it matches to about 80 feet when fired perfectly level, which is roughly equivalent to the 100 foot claim people give with a slight(often unintentional) angle. If you want more range, you can always make the tank and barrel bigger.

Side note, from reading through the write up a few more times- you mention not buying glue because "it requires an extra $10 dollars in chemicals that are [negated through this build]". Good job on not needing the glue, but what makes it "hard to use" for a newcomer, and what makes twist fittings any safer? I understand that if you get a bad glue joint it would leak; and with the OPV in the system, you won't reach pressures high enough to blow a joint. The only places I have ever broken my WNTS's is actually the twist in fitting, sometimes while pressurized...

Twist fittings aren't safer, but they are better for noobs because they aren't permanent. For example, if you pvc cement your OPRV subsystem to the tank only to find out that it leaks, then the whole assembly becomes useless. But with twist fittings, you can just replace the bad subsystem with a working one.

I'll take 30m meters plus the bonus. Thanks!

I made a Mad Ghost (Similar design to this) and the trigger pull was pretty difficult since it is essentially counteracting all of the pressure in the tank. What kind of force does your require? I was planning on creating a lever to aid my trigger pull similar to the one used on air hose nozzles, but never got around to it.

Thanks for bringing this up, I've also experienced that problem with the mad ghost. But, when you use a well nut trigger instead of a check valve trigger, the trigger pull becomes unbelievably easier. To say why would be speculation, but I've built several of both and it's definitely the case.