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Curly

Member Since 17 May 2011
Offline Last Active Oct 23 2017 09:59 PM

Topics I've Started

3D Printed Big Blast Triggers

02 August 2016 - 01:10 PM

War-tested design, fits in shell without any cuts. I use some silicon grease to lubricate all surfaces of the trigger, it hugs the shell more tightly than stock. You'll need to file or sand the side that has supports attached to it for a smooth surface, but after 5-10 minutes and some greasing it fits great and shows no signs of wear after a day of 30C use. It also does not seem to max out the draw of the tank's pin, so it shouldn't cause extra wear. Lacks the sex appeal of full aluminum, but is far cheaper. I printed them with the following settings in PLA on an Ultimaker 2:

 

Layer height: 0.2mm (much larger and they don't fit nicely)

Wall Thickness: 1.2mm (bigger is better)

Top/Bottom Thickness: 1mm (bigger is better)

Infill Density: 99% (Cura estimated several hours more for 100% infill, I don't expect it makes much difference)

Supports: Enabled, placed everywhere

 

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Can't seem to post anything but an STL file here, I'll try to get the PRT file added to the digital designs directory. PM me if you don't see it there.


"Optimal" 4B Barrel Length and Pain

10 April 2012 - 07:22 PM

Optimal is a terrible word for it, but after MIG saying his 4B hit 150' with domes I felt it necessary that I test my 4B for both my own benefit and the safety of others. It was windy today, but I had my brothers outside tell me when the wind temporarily dissipated before firing. To minimize wind I measured 35' down my hall and fired out the door. I will not be testing in this position again due to the large metal pole diagonally blocking my view 50' away. While many shots hit it, the ones that didn't still traveled flat due to the diagonal of the pole.

I took 4 shots(except for the time I took 5 by accident) and averaged them with 12", 14", 16", and 18" barrels. I used Slingshot weighted dome darts with FA24 beige foam it PETG. It has a snug fit, great for both airguns and springers. The blanks are 1.25" long, and they are marked with Sharpie rings and were replaced when the rings began to fade to prevent wear and fit change.

The 12" barrel was from a hopper but there is no feeding tab so it's essentially a 12" speedloader. The 14" was a speedloader, nothing fancy here. The 16" and 18" barrels were lengths of PETG that I put in a short 17/32" nub to seal the breech. Blowing down the breech didn't cause a leak, so besides the 1/2" wide 3/4" long brass tube there is no deadspace like the other two barrels.

My Blaster and barrels are as follows:
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I bought the 4B tank off BuffDaddy and it had no pump. After getting a shell from Pearson and a trigger from BuzzBee customer support, the shown Titan pump was added. The OPV kicks in at 30PSI(give or take) and so does the stock pump. If you don't believe me wait until you see ranges, which are just like 4B ones. The 18" barrel isn't present because it was cut to down to used as the 16" barrel.

My brothers stood at the end of the tape measure and took note of exactly where the dart landed, so dart skip is not part of the results. Any shots that either hit something or had very poor flight paths were ignored and retested.

Overall this test had many minor variables and should have been conducted inside but meh, the results seem to support my prior knowledge. Such prior knowledge being that DeadDumpster says his 4B shoots about as far but more accurately with a 14" as opposed to a 12", and that NerfHunter uses a 16" barrel for civil war due to the power.

My results were as follows:

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The results were about what I expected, and like DD and Hunter say, the 14" and 16" are brutally accurate. Judging by the results the "optimal" barrel for me is about 15.5", and people using similar setups can probably be confident using that. However, a very important part of barrel choice is power. Slingshot domes are the most brutal darts I know of, and are banned unconditionally in many wars. In Canada they are a common choice, due to the low cost and easy centering in the dart for superior accuracy.

Naturally, no 4B test would be complete without testing the safety of the blaster. Unfortunately, penetration tests aren't very precise and can be misleading, so that leaves human trials as the only option I know of. I fired a shot out of each barrel at my shin from about 3" away through my jeans. The order of wounds from left to right is as follows: 16", 14", and 12"

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While there was a clear mark left, I would think it would be gone by the evening and the minor broken skin would heal quickly. BUT I'm not testing the most common scenario, they don't test crash cars going 20km/h, they send them into concrete at 130km/h. Here is the 130km/h test, in the opposite order as before:

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Keep in mind this is THE worst case scenario from a 4B and Slingshots (besides getting shot in the genitals and such) and most either using slugs or something less powerful than a 4B. Those that use 4Bs typically hang farther back and are painless at range, although surprising somebody with a 4B can produce this rarely. In my experience with 4Bs and Slingshots the shown damage only happens >15', but it's still possible in a war scenario. I am incredibly happy my 3K that I had clocking in at 140' broke before I could hit anybody <80' away, I'll definitely put an OPV or something into it when I fix it.

The pain of all of the wounds subsided very quickly, it felt like a deep sting and it quickly became more of a somewhat sore wound. Keep in mind my feeling in this test is three time what would normally happen, and the hits to my covered leg are basically painless. I bandaged all the wounds simply not to get a little blood on my pants, if I was in shorts at a war I would have left it alone.

Overall this brings some attention to the need to regulate and test blasters and darts in ways not based on range, as it's very different from person to person. For instance, the reason I did these tests was to prove/disprove MIG's 150' 4B range claim. I don't think he's bullshitting, but judging by the place he tested his HyperMaxx 1500 there is a fair bit of dart skip that he alone cannot account for. The best way to get accurate results is to have somebody off to the side see where the dart lands.

In conclusion: TEST YO SHIT PEOPLE! Not just with range but with bare skin tests like I did. You should also compare it to a 4B or whatever is one of the most powerful blasters allowed at the war, and with the most damaging dart allowed. In my personal opinion if slingshots and 4Bs are common at the war and few are strongly opposed to them then they're fine by me. I'll continue to use them (although perhaps with a hopper to slightly reduce the power) unless they are prohibited at the war I'm at. The decision is mostly ethical.

UMB with Titan underslung

04 March 2012 - 08:48 PM

Note: This mod was for the CanadianNerfers.ca mod contest, which I why I was so pressed for time.

First off I'd like to thank the leap year for allowing me the time needed to finish the mod on time. Making poor decisions also deserves thanks, because it ultimately improved the end product. Be forewarned that the Titan won't have the power it did stock, I'll explain later. I'm sorry I didn't document this well, I made most of it over a month and the rest in 3 days, so pictures were scarce.

This mod integrates a Titan to a Ultimate Missile Blast, making for a nasty primary to battle against. All my vinyl tubing fittings are from http://www.ark-plas.com/ where they offer FREE sample packs of their stuff, which would be enough for several of these mods. You need to superglue the connections however, they don't hold pressure alone. This is what we'll be making:

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Let us begin.

Since the Titan needs more work done, we'll start there. Pop it open and all you can remove the pump and the hornet stuff. If you REALLY wanted to you could rewire it and use a THIRD primary on the same pump, but I think that's too much pumping. You can remove all the safety garbage, it's silly. Cut the pressure gauge tube in half, and remove the gauge. I put a 1/4"x1.5" washer in it's place and bolted it down. You can cut the tubing leading to the pump off the tank entirely, since it needs to be plugged anyway. Once the tubing is off toss the pump into your parts bin, they're great pumps. Plug the open barb on the tank with epoxy or something.

Then take a check valve and add ~1 foot of tubing to the "IN" barb and 6" to the "OUT". That's too much but you don't know how much you'll need exactly. stick the 6" of tubing inside the pressure gauge tube, it should fit snugly after some force. Test to be sure when you blow into the tubing with the Titan tank open air flows, but when you suck air it stops. To glue the barbs to the tubing I put superglue in the tubing and pushed it in with the barb. Once it's dry you can glue the end of the tubing in place too. Besides not having the long tubing attached, it should look like this:

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Now to the UMB.

This one's easy, open it up and cut off the barrel, leaving 3/4" of black barrel behind. This is for a direct hoppering, if you want a coupler you'll have to improvise. Now lay the internals into the shell again and drill a 1/8" hole in the pipe running from the pump near the middle (picture later). Then cram a barbed elbow into the hole, it'll take some convincing. Then superglue it there, ideally with epoxy slathered around it once that's dry. These will have some 30+ screws when done, you don't want it to break on you.

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Now comes the boring part- shell cutting. Take the internals out of the blasters an put them in a safe place. Cut the front sight off the Titan. Fiddle around with the back of the titan, cutting it until it's short enough to fit nicely under the UMB. Once you're happy with it, E-tape the shells closed and tape them together securely. It will look like this:

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You have some freedom with the next couple steps. Most people sand and use massive amounts of epoxy putty to merge the two shells permanently. I made sideplates out of 1/4" Acrylic (the nastiest shit off all time, use polycarb). I won't post templates because there aren't any. I cut two pieces to 1.25"x6.5" and dremeled them down to size. I sanded them after the dremel work to hide screwups. With these, the shells can be secure(my holes didn't match the screws, so it's not) and you can open the shells individually. I'll probably epoxy putty it anyway, but I can't go buy more putty right now. I put the sideplates on like this:

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It might be good to use L-shaped sideplates and attach them to the Titan twice. I also screwed the left shells together twice from the inside:

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When the shells are all nice and together put the internals back in and locate a way to attach the 12" tubing to the barb on the UMB tank. You'll need to dremel the left side of the shells, and dremel the bottom integration clamp off the UMB's right side. Look at where the tubing would be, it'll make more sense.

Once you've trimmed the tubing to fit well in the shells without crimping you can glue the tubing connections. Give it 10 minutes and test to see if it holds air for a 5 minutes straight. Like I said above, your Titan will barely be able to fire the rocket.

While this is very upsetting for some (cheyner specifically), it allows for many other systems. The Titan is often considered too powerful without three barrels or another range-diddle system. Shotgun attachments are nice, but they take awhile to reload and even longer to pressurize the tank to acceptable levels. Coop made a Youtube video awhile back detailing his 4B +bow attachment that featured a shotgun RSCB (but he didn't design it). You take any RSCB and make the first couple inches of the barrel your clip material. This lets a couple extra darts be fired at once, but with better ranges than a shotgun barrel. It also holds a reservoir, and is suited to the Titan tank when at the UMB's pressure levels. You could just modify the OPV like BOSS9/kingnoob did, which would make both blasters shoot farther. I'm fine with the UMB how it is, and the Titan is workable.

Back to work!

I made a Titan attachment before modding it. It was meant for shotgun barrels, but also accepts 1.5"x1/2" reducing bushings allowing single barrels. Cut the stock barrel down until it's flush with the start of the threads. You can rip off the 4 tabs on the tank that stop you from taking the barrel off so it will come on and off easily. Cut a length of 1.5" PVC that lies flush with the threads when placed on the barrel. E-tape and attach that, then slap a coupler on of it. Superglue all connections and you have a modular barrel system.

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I was actually getting war-safe ranges with a 12" singled barrel, it was less than my 3K. It was a waste of air however, a Titan tank aspires to so much more. The RSCB above is a shotgun RSCB, which fires 3 shots at a time. Works the same, just does more. Ranges are quite good for a shotgun, but it seems to have a vertical spread. Probably a chip in the barrel, but adjustable spread might come in handy. After some testing the shotgun barrels don't hit harder than the UMB, as they don't penetrate my dart board consistently like the UMB does. Trust me, it's nothing to be worried about with a UMB OPV.

You're on the home stretch now, don't give up!

All that's left is to hopper the UMB and put on some finishing touches. I took a wye and dremeled the rear port enough to fit 3/4"CPVC and epoxy puttied it on. Expect to use a full tube of putty, you need it. As the putty dries you should gently adjust the barrel and hold it in place for a good 10 minutes. Yes, that means aiming down your barrel for 10 minutes without putting the blaster down. It's a surefire way to get the barrel PERFECTLY straight, provided it's not disturbed during or after it dries. Angel, you should have no qualms with the barrels. My first UMB has a slight barrel misalignment, and it took me until lunch at my first war with it to properly compensate for it.

You can dremel the inside of 1/2" PVC too, but 3/4"CPVC is less work. The UMB is working at it's natural pressure, so expect whatever you usually get out of them. I get ~95' with a 9-shot hopper, not too shabby for a $7 blaster with a titan under it.

If you haven't figured out already, firing the UMB won't affect the Titan at all. Firing the Titan however will open the check valve and empty both tanks. There is an audible hiss when the UMB is venting out the Titan tank. You could add a second check valve to the blaster, but that's much harder than adding one to the Titan like I did. You also will have a section of tubing that is CONSTANTLY pressurized even when the tanks are empty.

I should also add that the top expansion port of the UMB isn't touched. The weight of a second UMB is probably too much, but I'll probably screw around with it anyway at Massacre 7.

Here is the finished product:

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In conclusion, this mod is the greatest of all time, duh. If I missed anything or you felt I didn't cover something in enough detail I'll be happy to elaborate. You may now flame.

EDIT: Here's a pic of the finished internals. The other stuff didn't change at all so it's not pictured. Thanks RevisionFive!
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