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CuppaSteve

Member Since 17 May 2011
Offline Last Active Oct 16 2020 09:17 PM

Topics I've Started

RSNO #5 (Updated)

19 February 2012 - 05:08 PM

Yup. The RSNO series is finally back!
Date: May 12th.
Time: 10 a.m. This means that you should arrive prior to 10.

Location: 22nd Street Park. The official address is 7801 North 22nd Street, Tampa, FL. However, we will be setting up on Park Drive at the other end of the park (7700 block if that helps). If you come in from Patterson, make a right and park at the end of Park Drive.

Here's what Google Maps will show:
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Here's what you want:
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ROGUE: It's pretty serious......2 seperate "Arenas", one HUGE arena perfect for a LARGE turnout, and one that is about 1/3 that size which worked perfect for the smaller group we had. The best part is that 3/4 of the ENTIRE playing area is shaded almost the entire day.

CARAKKI: This field is excellent, with different areas for larger or smaller groups. It features a trench/ditch/thing, a gigantic field, and a heavily forested area (main arena). Oh, and the river (can't have a Riverside war without it).


^What they said. It's a great field.

Clothing: It's Florida in May. It'll probably be rather hot, but fortunately it won't be too humid yet. Regardless, dress appropriately.

Blasters:

Bring:
-A Primary
-A Secondary
-A Pistol. A pistol is a spring-powered single-shot blaster.

Don't Bring:
-Homemade airguns
-Anything liable to explode, cut, or otherwise injure any Nerfers
-Singled, plugged Titans. Modified titans must have a minimum of 3 barrels, or be shooting the rocket.

Darts: Stefans or Slugs are allowed. Stefans must be weighted with anything less than a 3/0 (bb's are preferred) and slugs must have as little exposed metal as possible. Try to make your darts pretty uniquely marked, and make sure

Melee Weapons: These seem to be more and more popular in FL lately. They must be either Hasbro Nerf weapons, or if they're homemade, the business end must be entirely covered in thick foam (like a pool noodle). The best way to tell is if somebody will let you hit them with it. Melee weapons should be treated like regular melee weapons. Meaning you throw daggers, knives, and machete-length swords, not full-sized swords (you know who you are ;) )

Safety:
-Players must wear eye protection.
-No tack-weighted or "death" darts.

And again,
-No exposed weights on darts.
-No slingshot-weighted darts. Most people use slugs or single BB glue dome darts. Fairly straightforward.

Money: Bring some. You could want to sell/buy something. We may try to organize a pool to buy pizza.

Misc.:
-There is no place to sit, or really to set up. Bring chairs and tables if you want such places to appear. Carakki will have some chairs and one table, the rest is up to you.
-Idiocy and immaturity will not be tolerated. If you can't handle this, you will be asked to leave.
-If Pizza doesn't work out, bring your own lunch.
-22nd street park is in my neighborhood. If you have any questions about the area (like where to eat afterwards, transport, etc.), I'd be happy to help.
-Gametypes will be determined with whatever we feel like playing. Most gametypes will be described before we start if there's any confusion.
-In tandem to the last thing- we play a lot of Pistol Rounds.
-There's not much cover in this field other than trees. Carakki has some windsocks (trashbags and pvc) to use, but more mobstacles would definitely help.
-Participating means that you pick up after yourself. There is one guy who takes care of the whole park, let's not make his job harder.

Raffle: FL wars are fun with raffles! So bring something you want to re-integrate into the community, or buy something. Anyone who wants to participate in the raffle must contribute to the raffle.


Random Pics for anyone unfamiliar with the field-
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Attendance List:
CuppaSteve +1
RAZZ
Gorilla
semperfi
MRLOGAGA365
Carakki +1
Bear
EocDragon
Drac
Ultimatenerf320
Ducky
Rover

The NIC Spring Database

21 November 2011 - 12:49 PM

Langley has asked me to copy the original NRev version of this thread over here, so here you all go.

Alright, we get a lot of questions about springs, whether stock or after-market. I'll start with information that I've gathered, along with information from this handy thread and continue where it left off, hopefully encouraging the community to add more and more until we have a fairly complete listing of the most common springs, spring replacements, etc. I use a vernier caliper, not digital, so all of my measurements are approximate (besides the ones I got from McMaster and the NH thread).

Here's the general format:

-General Nickname/Blaster Name
-OD/ID
-Length (uncompressed)
-Constant (If you have the capabilities to measure it. If not, just attempt to describe general power. If there are several versions like the LS or BBB, make note)
-Availability (only for after-market springs)
-Additional Notes (usual uses, etc.)

How to Find Constants
Find a known weight, like a freeweight. I use a 3lb dumbbell. Put the weight on the spring, and see how much it compresses. Subtract the compressed length you just found from the free length of the spring. Then divide the weight of your freeweight by that number.

(Constant=Force/(freelength-compressedlength))

After-Market Springs

A note about McMaster springs: The constant given on McMaster-Carr is not a definite constant. It is given so that you can still know the constant of the spring you're using regardless of the length of the spring. To find the constant specific to whatever length of spring you're using, use this post from Zorn:

Constant of x inches of spring = [McMaster constant] / [Coils Per Inch * x]
Compression Ratio = 1 - (Coils Per Inch * Wire Diameter)
Max deflection of x inches of spring = x * Compression Ratio (this is the compression stroke, which must be greater than or equal to the plunger draw)^
Max force of x inches of spring = Max deflection * Constant in lbs/in


If you're still confused, Daniel Beaver has given you THIS helpful post.

And so we start.

Name: [k26]
OD: .844" ID: .688"
Length (As sold by McMaster): 11"
McM Constant: 131.9
Coils/Inch: 3.09
Availability: Sold in packs of 5 (and supposedly 3?) from http://www.mcmaster.com part number 9637K26
Notes: A favorite among modders as a replacement spring. Very powerful, but also very good at breaking stuff if not properly reinforced.

Name: [k25]
OD: .968" ID: .808"
Length (As sold by McMaster): 11"
McM Constant: 84
Coils/Inch: 2.18
Availability: Sold in packs of 5 (and supposedly 3?) from http://www.mcmaster.com part number 9637K25
Notes: Good replacement spring to get power out of blasters with little to no reinforcement.

Name: K14
OD: 1.09" ID: 0.88"
Length: (As sold by McMaster): 11"
Coils/Inch: 2.45
Coils/Spring: 27
McM Constant: 181.2
Availability: Sold in packs of 5 from http://www.mcmaster.com part number 9637K14
Notes: Stupidly strong. Almost always used in homemades because factory plastic can't take it.

Name: K45
OD: 1" ID: .82"
Length (As sold by McMaster): 36"
Coils/Inch: 3.2
McM Constant: 140.5
Availability: Sold singly from http://www.mcmaster.com part number 9662K45
Notes: Similar in size, but stronger than K25s, which go for 55"/$10.49, while 2 K45s would come out to 72"/$8.26

Name: K34
OD: 1.13" ID: .91"
Length (As sold by McMaster): 36"
Coils/Inch: 2.6
McM Constant: 170.3
Availability: Sold singly from http://www.mcmaster.com part number 9662K34
Notes: Will fit in 1-1/4" PVC (ID 1.38"), but has so little clearance that it can't be used in traditional SNAPs - the nail won't clear it. Traditional catches that rely on the changes to plunger rod width (notches or bumps) will be unimpeded. This looks to be a possible middle ground between the [k26] and K14. I've heard some people comment that the former is too easy to prime, while the latter too hard.

Name: K31
OD: .88" ID: .72"
Length (As sold by McMaster): 36"
McM Constant: 116.2
Availability: Sold singly from http://www.mcmaster.com part number 9662K31
Notes: Similar in size to [k26] which currently sells for 55"/$10.49, while 2 K31s are 72"/$8.60

Name: Ace #49
OD: ~.88" ID: ~.54"
Length: ~3.35"
Constant: 13 lb/in
Availability: Check your local Ace Hardware.
Notes: Good for Nitefinders and the like. Usually needs some reinforcement.

Name: Ace #69 (heh) I'm so mature.
OD: 1.25" ID: ~.99"
Length: 4.625"
Constant: ~19 lb/in <---That seems high. Someone should double-check.
Availability: Check your local Ace Hardware.
Notes: A popular replacement spring for someone who wants even more power than a [k26] for a modified blaster.

Name: ACE #199
OD: 0.51" ID: 0.34"
Length: 5.58"
Coils total: 28
Rotation: Clockwise
Availability: Sold at better-stocked ACE Hardware stores, and by Venom213
Notes: Replacement spring for PistolSplat.

Name: Home Depot Everbuilt "Handyman" Spring SP 9713.
OD: .875" ID: .715"
Length: 4"
Coils/Inch: ~3.5
Constant:6.2 lb/inch
Availability: Check your local Home Depot.
Notes: Great spring addition to larger blasters. Also great for NiteFinder spring replacements.

Stock Springs

Name: Raider/Recon/AT/LK spring
OD: 1.06" ID : 0.94"
Length: 4.75"
Coils total: 7 (not counting extra coil or two for closed ends - this will add to compressed length.)
Constant: ~2.02 lbs/in
Notes: Just a generally good addition spring, especially for somewhat larger plunger-tubed blasters.

"Current Production" NF spring (Older NF springs have lower constants, but more compression, so they are generally more powerful at full compression)
OD: ~.825" ID: .7"
Length: 3.25"
Coils: 17 (Older ones have 15)
Constant: ~3.9 lbs/in

Longshot Spring
OD: ~1.375" ID: ~1.245"
Length: 5.5"
Constant: ~2 lb/in (can vary with LS generation)
Notes: A good addition spring for blasters with larger plungertubes. There are two generations of longshot spring, a black spring and a silver spring. The black spring is slightly stronger.

LSFG Spring (For blue and yellow LSFG's)
OD: .625" ID: ~.555" OD: .83" ID: .79"
Length: 2.625" Length: 2.55
Constant: ~2.5 lb/inch
Notes: Basically worthless. It'd make a better catch spring than main spring.

Maverick Spring
OD: .75" ID: ~.69"
Length: 2.5"
Constant: ~4.4 lb/inch
Notes: Although it has a high constant, the spring is so short that it exerts little power. Usually two are put into modified blasters, one on top of the other.

TTG (Micro-Firing)
Length: 3.08"
OD: 0.73"
Wire Dia: 0.06"
Coils total: 14
Rotation: Clockwise

Sawtooth Spring (Kinda pointless since it's uncommon but I'll put it up anyways as long as I have it around)
OD: ~.76 ID: ~.54
Length: ~2.7
Constant: ~5.5 lb/inch
Notes: Tiny, but pretty strong. This spring is similar to what you'll find in an eagle eye or a sneakshot.

Name: Stock Wipeout Splat spring:
OD: 0.50"
ID: 0.36"
Length: 5.04"
Coils total: 21

Name: Stock Silver/Blue Splat spring:
OD: 0.51"
ID: 0.36"
Length: 5.63"
Coils total: 24

Data Wanted
-BBB
-Lanard Handcannon/Quadshot
-RFSG
-Scout
I'll think of more

Measurements that I'll be getting eventually unless someone beats me to it:
PAS

If I got anything wrong, correct me. All the rest of the info is pretty much up to you all. Please help expand this database by posting!
Just keep it in the same format, please. Make my life easier.

If everybody could help with this, it could be a great tool not only for seasoned veterans but for the newbies as well. Much thanks to taerkitty and Beaver for making helpful contributions thus far.

CFNF #5 War Video

05 June 2011 - 12:56 PM

Video editing done by Carakki.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqrmGOqxGG4


Any FL nerfers interested in a war see the RSNO #3 thread.

Pen-Painting

27 May 2011 - 02:38 PM

You will need:
-A gun you feel like painting. Smaller is better, and it's mostly intended for the clear series blasters.
-Pliers.
-A rag or old t-shirt that you don't care about.
-The Sun.
-Cheap pens. The ones I used are by Papermate.

First things first- Disassemble your pens. If your pens are clicky (which I don't recommend, as they are more expensive), save the springs for various catch springs for the future.

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Twist the nib off of the end of your pen with the pliers, and then use the pliers to start crimping the ink-tube thing, working your way towards where the nib used to be. A drop of ink should start forming at the tip. Once you have a good drop, start glopping it onto your gun. For a minimized NF, I found that I needed about a pen per side for two colors. However, I got one pen that refused to draw ink until I was half an inch away from where the nib was, so it's variable.
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Hard to tell from the pic. Sorry.

Once you have a some ink drops on your gun (you only need a bit to cover a lot of space), start spreading it around with something. If you feel like reminiscing the good ole' days of fingerpainting like I did, go ahead. Using something more precise than I would be better.
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Add a second color if you so desire.

Once you have covered wherever your wanted to paint, leave leave the gun out in the sun for a healthy bake. In the hot Florida sun, it only took about 15 minutes. When the ink seems dry, wipe off any excess and smooth some of the fingerprints with the rag. After that, your done!
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Additional Notes:
-Obviously it's not perfect, especially around the handle. It's about as pretty as the child of a manatee and an alley-cat. That being said, I was using my fingers and it's the first time I've done this. There's definitely room for some refinement.

-It seems as though it's possible to "blend" colors. Some areas of the black and red have a slight purple hue. Had I been using any blue pens, I probably could've made a more prominent purple.

-The red on this keeps the transparency. Had I gone easier on the black, it's slightly transparent. That being said, I find this works best on the clear guns, or the proper colors (like blue) could add more body to the Sonic Series guns.

-Should this process become more refined, it would most definitely be more cost-effective than spray paint, but only for handheld blasters. Doing something like a clear deploy or raider would probably rob you of all your pens.

-If allowed to dry completely, the ink shouldn't come off on your hand. At CFNF 5 this was left out in the open to battle a downpour, and the pj survived intact.

-If you use your fingers (like me), your hands will get very messy as you paint the gun. Part of what the rag's for.

-Using my fingers also left a lot of fingerprints on the gun. They seemed to have smoothed over a little bit though.

-Going over smooth portions of the gun with some fine sandpaper wouldn't have been a bad idea.