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At3k Problem


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#1 Mike

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 01:04 PM

I've been modding my at3k with the help of my friend dj since friday night. We didn't have any barrel material so we were forced to use crayolas. We cut the stock barrels down to the right spot and tried so stick the crayolas in and they didn't fit. We went home and the next morning we opened it up to drain the blue goo and clog the valve. Then i stuck one hollowed out crayola in and glued it and supported it with tape. With about 4 pumps it got across my whole upstairs area (est. 35'). I shot about 5 rounds and now it isn't working. I'll pump it and pull the trigger but no air is coming out. I'm new to modding air guns so could you guys give me some help here?

Thanks,

Mike.
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#2 Grenado

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 01:41 PM

Can you get pics up? And no properly modded AT3K only shoots 35 feet. Also, crayolas for AT3Ks suck. My friend tried a crayola, shot about 40'. He switched his barrels over to PETG and now it gets about 60'. If you didn't have the right barrel material you should have waited till you had some. My RF20 had the same problem and it turned out I didn't connect the turret properly. You should also get a better bonding material, like PVC cement or Automotive Goop.
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#3 Mike

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 01:48 PM

I'll take all of that into consideration.

Here are two pics of the internals:

Posted Image
zoomed in:

Posted Image

Edited by Mike, 25 February 2007 - 01:50 PM.

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#4 Grenado

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 01:53 PM

Yeah, the problem is with your barrels by the looks of it to me. And something doesn't quite look right about that pump...
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#5 navy seal

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 02:06 PM

It sounds like either you didn't put the rubber disk in when you drained the goo and its leaking or when you plugged the pump you put to much glue so the check valve isn't working.
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#6 Grenado

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 03:24 PM

Stronger sealant would help out with both the barrel and when you remove the glue you will need less sealant.
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#7 Mike

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 04:08 PM

i put the rubber disk in but i screwed trying to punch a hole in it. I'll check the valve and get back to you guys later.

Thanks
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#8 Flaming Hilt

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 07:11 PM

For future reference don't drain the goo unless you it reels you or you need the space for something else. It's a great way to create leaks.

That being said, I would start by holding your ear up to the valve and pumping to see if air is coming out there. That's the biggest problem I run into. If that's not it, listen by the goo tube 'cause since you opened it that's another potential area. If you still don't hear anything, I'd do the underwater trick.

Once you find the leak, seal it up. I'd rec'd cement because At3ks are too powerful for hot glue. And as a tip to a newer modder, just go buy the stuff. I know you're prolly hesitant at first but cement is your friend.

After you get the leak fixed, definitely try new barrel material. I can ship you brass at cost if you like (PM me), otherwise 1/2" PVC works for stock suction darts and 1/2" CPVC works for smaller stefans.

And I don't think there's anything wrong with your pump. Any idea what you're seeing, Grenado?

EDIT: Also, step number one to larger ranges with a 3k is pump plugging. I got 35' from mine not plugged and now (plugged) it's at least 70'. So make sure you do that.

Edited by Flaming Hilt, 25 February 2007 - 07:12 PM.

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#9 AODL

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 07:36 PM

See that white plastic piece in front of the spring on the metal rod near the trigger? Move that behing the grey piece of plastic in front of the spring and make sure the part of the trigger near the spring is between the two disc like things on the white piece. Sorry if it's hard to undertstand...

Edited by AODL, 25 February 2007 - 08:01 PM.

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#10 AssassinNF

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Posted 25 February 2007 - 09:22 PM

See that white plastic piece in front of the spring on the metal rod near the trigger? Move that behing the grey piece of plastic in front of the spring and make sure the part of the trigger near the spring is between the two disc like things on the white piece. Sorry if it's hard to undertstand...

I was just about to point that out, too.

I'll try to help explain it. The white plastic piece on the metal trigger rod needs to be farther back, so that the trigger can hook onto it. Without that piece connected to the trigger, the gun usually won't fire.
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#11 Team Slaya

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Posted 02 March 2007 - 09:25 AM

I personally advise you not to plug the pump. Air guns tend to go screwy on me when I plug them - I only do it for certain ones. My 3k gets 55-60' flat without being plugged, I used PETG which fits nicely. It's dead accurate, and has a nice ROF. Because it's not plugged, I can depend on it not breaking. If you think ~15' more will help a bunch, and it's worth risking your gun, go for it. But I wouldn't suggest it.

And the goo tube mod really doesn't do that much, check CXWQ's mod in the mods section. Plus, my buddy did the same mod as I did, no plug, and did the goo tube. Mine performs a bit better, but that's probably because I epoxied my barrels in, and he just hot glued his in. Your choice though.

Good luck finding that leak.

TS
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