Delrin, Nylon, and PVC have the highest resistance to temperatures below 0F. But if you're talking below -40F (or above 150F) you can't really use most plastics safely.
Edited by CaptainSlug, 02 March 2008 - 10:59 PM.
Posted 02 March 2008 - 10:57 PM
Edited by CaptainSlug, 02 March 2008 - 10:59 PM.
Posted 24 October 2008 - 03:40 PM
Posted 24 October 2008 - 04:33 PM
Posted 30 November 2008 - 04:57 PM
Edited by TheNerfLoki, 30 November 2008 - 04:57 PM.
Posted 30 November 2008 - 05:20 PM
1. The only bits that will work are the high speed cutter types. Everything else will just produce a great deal of melting.I have a few questions.
1. To machine extruded acrylic with a dremel, what cutting bit should I use?
2. And should I be worried about the fumes?
3. And which scroll saw that is cheap (100 or less) would any of you recommend? Thanks.
Posted 16 March 2009 - 02:48 AM
Posted 24 May 2009 - 12:32 PM
Posted 25 May 2009 - 06:22 AM
That's because you can't. The material at the break has failed at a polymer chain level and is too weak for an adhesive joint to take hold.I have yet to find an adhesive that will bond a broken plunger rod I have.
Edited by CaptainSlug, 25 May 2009 - 06:24 AM.
Posted 25 May 2009 - 11:04 AM
It's also a very user-friendly adhesive. It is very easy to use and is more of a paste rather then most clay-like epoxy putty's. It's great for creating structural integrity and can be used to repair key parts in blasters that have constant stress on them.The strongest adhesive I've used regularly is JB Weld 2-part epoxy steel.I have yet to find an adhesive that will bond a broken plunger rod I have.
Posted 07 July 2009 - 11:25 AM
Posted 07 July 2009 - 02:26 PM
Posted 24 August 2009 - 09:55 AM
Posted 24 August 2009 - 11:48 AM
Posted 24 August 2009 - 11:52 AM
Then it will cut fine. Polycarbonate has a much higher melting temperature than either of those plastics.I use it to cut PVC and it works perfectly. And yes it is powered. It has a 12" blade with 60 teeth if that helps. And the PVC doesn't melt. Nor did a LS clip that I cut with it.
Posted 24 August 2009 - 04:25 PM
Posted 27 February 2010 - 06:17 AM
Edited by moosa, 27 February 2010 - 06:18 AM.
Posted 06 December 2010 - 06:04 PM
Posted 06 December 2010 - 06:45 PM
Posted 06 December 2010 - 06:53 PM
Particle board is a manufactured wood product. It is actually quite environmentally friendly, as it is built from compressed shredded wood scraps and recycled wood, held together with a type of resin. It is cheaper and more dense than hardwood, but is not very strong or resistant to moisture. It also does not take paint (let alone stain) well.
(For anybody who cares, from http://woodworking.a...icleBoard.htm.)
Also, I doubt it could hold a thread.
So, no, it doesn't seem like a good alternative.
Posted 06 December 2010 - 11:40 PM
I've used those before, not too hard, but they seem to work just fine. DON'T ever get melted plastic on the cutting side, it's a pain in the *** to get off.I've used the normal abrasive cutting wheels to cut Nerf plastic with my Dremel without problems. I don't push it too hard.
Also, Dremel now sells cutting wheels made specifically for plastics.
Link here.
They appear to also be abrasive type cutters. I have yet to use them.
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