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The Snap-1 Mk2

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#26 davidbowie

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Posted 28 March 2006 - 11:40 AM

I find it easier to just wrap them in e-tape. Or, if I want them really grippy, hockey tape.
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#27 GeneralPrimevil

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Posted 28 March 2006 - 06:08 PM

Hey, I got me some springs for free. However, they take a bit of strength to compress. Since I can use hand excercisers up to 150 lbs and these springs moved a 100 lb. scale without compressing more than a half inch, I dunno if I could use 'em.

Pic!

That plate next to it is from an air chamber (large diaphragm valve) which is about 5" in diameter. The springs are 11" and 12" long.

To make relevant to the grip situation, if I used these springs and held on to the grip while cocking, the bond would break before it reached half-cock. Not only that, the force (if it did get fully cocked) would probable break the piston head when it slams into the cylinder head...

I'm gonna look through Lowes' supply ans see if I can't find a 1" I.D. spring or a 2" O.D. spring. One or the other, or one for each gun since I have to make a few of these before June...
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#28 forest sharpshooter

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Posted 25 August 2006 - 04:52 PM

I like this alot.I have been wanting to make something like this for a while and you just helped out! :lol:

Edited by forest_sharpshooter, 10 September 2006 - 12:52 PM.

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#29 NiteWalker

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Posted 25 August 2006 - 10:30 PM

DO NOT revive old topics. Read the Code of Conduct before you post something like this. You could get yourself banned. Just some advice to help you stay in these forums. Also, fix your capitalization... that's something else you need to work on.

Edited by NiteWalker, 30 August 2006 - 09:22 AM.

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#30 Uncle Hammer

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Posted 29 August 2006 - 10:11 PM

You joined two months ago and your already telling people to read the CoC and to use grammar and puncuation. Why not let the admins do their job and not telling new people what they can and can't or should do. Although his post didn't abide by the CoC, it wasn't really a necromancy. He was just commenting on how it was a nice write up and how he would like to build one. I really don't see the harm as long it's not something stupid.
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#31 NiteWalker

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Posted 30 August 2006 - 09:26 AM

Remember Hammer, that there is the rule where it says: don't post if you have nothing to say. Everyone knows that it's a nice writeup... I also want to tell him the rules BEFORE an admin has to intervene(sp?). And if admins don't like this then why don't THEY tell me? I am only two months old in this forum, but what does it change if I am right that he needs to work on some of the rules?

Edit- Sorry, I forgot this isn't the place for this kind of thing.

Edited by NiteWalker, 30 August 2006 - 12:56 PM.

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#32 Carbon

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Posted 15 June 2008 - 08:14 PM

Time to revive an old thread with a bunch of new information:

1) Improved construction methods
2) Measurements (!)
3) Notes on previously suggested methods

Improved Construction Methods

For the longest time, one of the worst parts of building a SNAP was grinding down the rear endcap catchface so the nail could slide over it. Well, today I just experimented with using a rounded endcap, and it works like a charm. These are the caps that Home Depot seems to sell, rather than the square edge caps.

Posted Image

So, now you can build a full-function SNAP with a drill, a saw, and some sandpaper...no Dremel required.

Still need a way to make easier handles...eh, that's another day.

Measurements

Many people have asked me for specific measurements. Since I've been building these things in bulk, I've had to finally specify my dimensions. So, here's a set of measurements that I've been using for construction. Variations will work, of course, but I've gotten very consistent results, as well as these being the measurements that worked with the rounded endcap.

Plunger body section: 2 3/8"
Plunger chamber: 2 1/2"
Plunger rod: 9 1/2"
Trigger hole placement: 5" from end
Nail length: 9/16"

Notes on previously suggested methods

Particularly, using roofing nails as the catchpin. Er, forget I said that. From what I've found after using them, the advantaged of using a fatter pin are negated by a weakened clothespin. The larger hole tends to make the jaws snap off, so it's really not worth it. A thinner nail allows for a very smooth catch, and I've only ever had one catchface wear out from use. And now, since catchfaces are a simple drop-in replacement (after drilling one hole), it's really not worth it.

Edited by Carbon, 15 June 2008 - 09:41 PM.

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#33 ejrasmussen

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Posted 15 June 2008 - 09:39 PM

I used the curved end-caps for both snaps I've made, both are pictured in the home-made picture thread.
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#34 Quilan Fett

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Posted 16 June 2008 - 12:56 AM

When I make homemades, I use a I use a 3/4" to 1/2" reducing coupling for the catchface. I don't know how well this can be used in a SNAP, because my guns catch in back like a FAR, but I thought I'd put it out there in case anyone who doesn't have access to a Home Depot wants to give it a try, because this is much easier than sanding an endcap.
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#35 keef

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Posted 16 June 2008 - 06:12 AM

The only place that I've seen with flat endcaps is Lowes, and their sizes get weird sometimes....

I use the curved endcap, works good, but I just need to add the trigger. I have no motivation to finish this thing.
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#36 venom213

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Posted 16 June 2008 - 10:42 AM

When I was building my SNAP-1 mk2 I originally got those round endcaps, but I later got the flat ones because they are easier to drill. I still have the round ones, so maybe I could switch them. I still have to put the grip and trigger on my SNAP-1 anyway.
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#37 BustaNinja

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Posted 18 June 2008 - 10:09 PM

When I was building my SNAP-1 mk2 I originally got those round endcaps, but I later got the flat ones because they are easier to drill. I still have the round ones, so maybe I could switch them. I still have to put the grip and trigger on my SNAP-1 anyway.


Drill em from the inside going out. You can clamp it in a vice and then the drill will rest right in the center.
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#38 Carbon

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Posted 18 June 2008 - 10:46 PM

When I was building my SNAP-1 mk2 I originally got those round endcaps, but I later got the flat ones because they are easier to drill. I still have the round ones, so maybe I could switch them. I still have to put the grip and trigger on my SNAP-1 anyway.


Drill em from the inside going out. You can clamp it in a vice and then the drill will rest right in the center.

I actually do all mine by hand, but like you said, inside out. I find it easier to hold the endcap in a large pair of pliers for the larger bits, rather than a vice.
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#39 BustaNinja

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Posted 18 June 2008 - 10:49 PM

When I was building my SNAP-1 mk2 I originally got those round endcaps, but I later got the flat ones because they are easier to drill. I still have the round ones, so maybe I could switch them. I still have to put the grip and trigger on my SNAP-1 anyway.


Drill em from the inside going out. You can clamp it in a vice and then the drill will rest right in the center.

I actually do all mine by hand, but like you said, inside out. I find it easier to hold the endcap in a large pair of pliers for the larger bits, rather than a vice.


Makes sense. I need to make me a SNAP sometime. Can I maybe get some pointers at SPANO?
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#40 venom213

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Posted 19 June 2008 - 01:34 PM

Makes sense. I need to make me a SNAP sometime. Can I maybe get some pointers at SPANO?

Yeah, I will answer any questions I can about it. I probably won't want to use mine a whole lot, since I'll have my beastly big blast, so you could use it all you want. This reminded me to go finish building it.....
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#41 Carbon

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Posted 19 June 2008 - 02:52 PM


Makes sense. I need to make me a SNAP sometime. Can I maybe get some pointers at SPANO?

Yeah, I will answer any questions I can about it.

And if he can't answer it, I probably can.

EDIT: Just realized I wasn't in the SPANO thread.

Edited by Carbon, 19 June 2008 - 02:55 PM.

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#42 BustaNinja

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Posted 19 June 2008 - 06:14 PM


Makes sense. I need to make me a SNAP sometime. Can I maybe get some pointers at SPANO?

Yeah, I will answer any questions I can about it.

And if he can't answer it, I probably can.

EDIT: Just realized I wasn't in the SPANO thread.


I thought I remembered seeing something about you going to SPANO. Maybe not, I haven't been all there recently as I am tired, but thank you venom.
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#43 Shadow 92

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Posted 19 June 2008 - 07:10 PM

Still need a way to make easier handles...eh, that's another day.

Have you ever considered a tee and a 45 degree elbow?
Posted Image
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#44 quiet asian man

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Posted 20 June 2008 - 06:17 AM

Still need a way to make easier handles...eh, that's another day.

Have you ever considered a tee and a 45 degree elbow?


Posted Image

The Tee looks significantly cut down in your picture. I'd be worried about it snapping off.
Edit: I thought about it some more. My diagram may not be that significant for this case. I was probably thinking about using a huge 2" tee.

Edited by quiet asian man, 20 June 2008 - 06:30 AM.

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#45 Shadow 92

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Posted 20 June 2008 - 01:48 PM

The bottom part of the tee is supposed to be longer. I accidentally sketched it that way because the other gun that I'm designing uses a cut down tee.

I don't think that the gun would rotate as much as you say it would in real life. Flexor tendons in the wrist should be able to overcome most of that force.
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