167 replies to this topic

[BloodMoon]

Damn, how much would you say of the work requires dremeling? Like is it pretty much impossible to make one with a kit without a dremel?

Well, I'm not Boltsniper, but when I take a look at that trigger plate I don't see any way that it could be made without a dremel...in fact, I'm a little scared about how I'm going to do it WITH a dremel, but Ace's aluminum comes in big sheets, so I'll have some time to practice with it once there are some exact dimensions posted. Here's Bolt's pic:


$5 sounds like a very reasonable price for shipping.

EDIT: oops...Bolt beat me to the answer; sorry about that.

Edited by BloodMoon, 16 October 2005 - 10:44 PM.

[Alexlebrit]

One way to get a clip in a small pistol shaped springer would be to have an over under design with the piston travelling back towards the firer and a U bend into the barrel, a bit like some of the old webley airpistols.

Also you'd get a "recoil" effect when the piston hit the end of the air chamber.

You're cocking handle would be at the front though.

PS: What news on the planned bullpup on your site? Another case for an over under spring piston gun I reckon.

Edited by Alexlebrit, 17 October 2005 - 09:27 AM.

[boltsniper]

Thats very true. You could relocate the plunger.

The bullpup got scrapped a while back. It was going to be another gas powered gun. Probably CO2 again to get the power for semiauto. What I had done on it had gotten integrated into the FAR.

[Langley]

Aside from the slits, I would think you could use tin-snips and a rasp to make the trigger if you had to. Don't know how you would do the slits though.

[boltsniper]

it would be hard to cut 1/16" aluminum with snips, especially to any level of precision and without warping the shit out of it.

[notorious oxide]

The trigger plate could be done in a grinder if accesible, or see if you can use the metal work area at school. But that still leaves the slits which could probably be done by drilling a hole at either end of where the slit will go and then throwing it through a ban saw. Just a thought.

[Langley]

it would be hard to cut 1/16" aluminum with snips, especially to any level of precision and without warping the shit out of it.

Ah. Well I have used snips to cut 1/32 aluminum, and I've used snips to cut 1/16x1/2 aluminum bar stock, but only when I'm just trimming it down to a length I can work with before using a saw or dremel and I don't need straight cuts. But if you haven't got a dremel, there's really just that or a hacksaw and a real steady hand.

[boltsniper]

To do the 3 plates for the ebay guns I cut them out on the band saw my father has. Definitiely the quickest way. I used a Dremel before because it's all I have at my apartment. It was worth the trip to for 3 to save the time.

You probably could do it with a hacksaw and a vise. To do the slot you could just drill a lin of holes and file out whats left over.

Edit: Finished one pistol tonight. The other two are not far behind.

Edited by boltsniper, 17 October 2005 - 11:51 PM.

[Alexlebrit]

To do the 3 plates for the ebay guns I cut them out on the band saw my father has.  Definitiely the quickest way.  I used a Dremel before because it's all I have at my apartment.  It was worth the trip to for 3 to save the time. 

You probably could do it with a hacksaw and a vise.  To do the slot you could just drill a lin of holes and file out whats left over.

Is there any reason not to use brass for this component? The great thing about brass is that it's soft to work with, and because it's self lubricating your saws, drills and files don't jam as much as aluminium or steel.

Edited by Alexlebrit, 21 October 2005 - 10:25 AM.

[boltsniper]

Is there any reason not to use brass for this component? The great thing about brass is that it's soft to work with, and because it's self lubricating your saws, drills and files don't jam as much as aluminium or steel.

You said it right there.

You could use it but it would probably where down enough that it would not work anymore quite quickly


PRODUCTION UPDATE

I`ve gotten one pistol completely done and painted and ready to sell. The other is still in need of completion. I haven`t had a whole lot of time to work on it the past few days. I`m debating going ahead and posting the one thats ready and posting the second when it's done.

Here are some pics of the completed production model. Extrenally it doesn`t look much different. I marked the receiver with the model numner "BS6 MK2" for Boltsniper model 6 mark 2. I marked the other side of the receiver with a serial number. This one is SRL 102 and the next will be 103. 101 is reserved for the original.

Edited by boltsniper, 21 October 2005 - 04:03 PM.

[INsecurity]

I will go down for a kit if you start producing them, also the handle serves no actual operational purpose besides to hold the gun right?
If so if I get one I will probably sand and reform the grip a bit.

With the clip loading idea. It couldn't be that hard but would probably reduce range, all you would have to do is put the plunger above the barrel and then have vinyl tubing going from the end of the plunger tube to the back of the barrel, I realise that I have just given a very basic idea and it would be alot more work than that, but with what you have done in the past with PVC I'm sure you could work it out.

-=EDIT=-

*BOINK*

I wonder how many people will understand my edit.

Edited by INsecurity, 22 October 2005 - 05:06 AM.

[Ronster]

Well, in order to have the clip in the handle, wether you relocate the plunger or the handle, you would have to create another mechanism to bring the dart from the clip into the barrel. You would most likely have to cock it twice, once to pull back the plunger and once to bring the dart into the barrel, or you could just have a reverse plunger assembly and when you cock in by pulling the slide back you also bring a new dart into the barrel, but that would decrease the range.

[INsecurity]

Or you could have a catch on the plunger that when the plunger is 3/4 of the way cocked it catches the bolt mech and slides it back to load another dart and when fired the bolt will slide forwards with the plunger before too much air comes through.

[Ronster]

So when you say,

The spring is a AR15 carbine spring with about a third cut off. When retracted the spring is fully compressed. When installed in the gun the spring is compressed about 25% of its free length.

Does that mean that it's not the same spring you used for your far?

Edited by Ronster, 23 October 2005 - 12:05 PM.

[flamebo388]

Thats what I was wondering too, a carbine spring would be different than the rifle length spring used in the far, correct?

[WratH]

No, it's the same spring. It is called the "AR15 Carbine Spring" because it is from the gun "AR15 Carbine". The only difference in the two springs is that the GNS spring is 2/3 of the length of the FAR spring, which is the full AR15 length.

Edited by WratH, 24 October 2005 - 06:20 PM.

[Ronster]

Didn't he say it was 1/3 the length?
And I'm pretty sure its not the same spring.

[BloodMoon]

post was full of information that turned out to be incorrect...skip down a few posts and read Bolt's own post.

Edited by BloodMoon, 24 October 2005 - 06:33 PM.

[Shotty Master]

you ever consider a silencer? for cosmetic uses only, of course.

[Shotty Master]

sorry, accidentally dp the above question.

Edited by Shotty_Master, 24 October 2005 - 06:18 PM.

[WratH]

Yeah, my mistake. I'll edit that. It was supposed to say the GNS's spring is 2/3 of the length of the FAR spring.

[boltsniper]

They are not the same spring. For the pistol I used a carbine spring which is shorter than a rfile length spring wound a little tighter. Carbine springs are used when using a colapsable stock because the buffer tube is not as long.

The spring in the pistol is closer to half the length of a carbine spring. I kept cutting coils off until I got a good length and it turned out to be about half.

You could certainly use a rifle length spring and cut it down. I just didn`t have any more extra rifle springs, but I did have about 3 extra carbine springs.

I started making a thread barrel for the pistol and an accompanying silence. Wouldn`t be effective at all but purely cosmetic. One of those things I`ll do just because I can.

[WratH]

Thanks for clearing that up, the silencer would be cool.

[Peter]

Wow, that thing is positively orgasmic.

It looks very clean.

You are definitely the king of homemades 0_0

If I had the money, I would gladly pay $60+ for it.

Edited by Peter, 24 October 2005 - 09:31 PM.

[Grumschnitz]

You could put a clip in the handle, you'd just have to move it forward and use the same mechanism that bolt used in the FAR. Also, has anyone ever considered using a drum magazine like those found on tommy-guns and WWI-era bomber turrets?
I know it's just a belt inside a case but still, that'd be a lot more space-efficient than a vertical clip.