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Stefan Making Tip

It works for me, maybe It'l work for you

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#1 ssgtsiler

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Posted 18 April 2005 - 09:52 PM

Well, to cool stefans down after I make them, I get a cup of water with ice (if its not cold enough) and after I glue the bbs in, I drop it in the cup for a second. If you have a low-temp gun, this will work, because the glue is at a low tempature. Im not sure about high-temp ones....... But it really speeds up production. Also, you can make hole-stefans by getting a nail and holding it (in pliars, of course) over a candle. The flame will heat the nail up, and then you proceed to melt a long hole in the stefan. I do this because I am scared of breaking yet ANOTHER RF20! (Ive broken about 5? trying to mod them. Eventually I will buy another one and try to mod it, or just give it to my 2IC or the supreme admiral.
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#2 NerfMonkey

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Posted 18 April 2005 - 10:14 PM

My Rapid Fire works great. All I did was remove the pegs and restrictors from the barrels. I used to put holes in the Stefans, but it was hard and sometimes I would put a hole through the side and ruin the dart. I don't have any guns in my active arsenal that have pegs anyway.
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#3 PissBacon

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Posted 19 April 2005 - 12:26 AM

Good advice, but I swear I've heard someone was using ice cubes to make their darts. They would sort of use an ice cube to nicely shape the hot glue tips as the glue cooled to form an aerodynamic, and therefore more true-flying, dart. Btw, that's a shame about your RF 20s.
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#4 Suave

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Posted 19 April 2005 - 09:43 AM

Good advice, but I swear I've heard someone was using ice cubes to make their darts.

CXWQ.

Lots of people use the bowl of icewater trick, but CX is the only one I know of that uses the straight ice cube.

Good advice on the nail, I know I read it somewhere but it was at least two years ago. We just make holes with the tip of the glue gun, but that won't help any for pegs.
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#5 J cobbers

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Posted 19 April 2005 - 10:10 AM

I cool my darts face down on the cold metal framing on the desk I work on. This gives me nice flat dart tip. I just pop them off when they've cooled and trim the edges.
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#6 ssgtsiler

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Posted 19 April 2005 - 04:59 PM

Flat tops would make the impact softer, therefore making it harder to detect hits. Also, it would make it less aerodynamic, making it move slower, therefore making the impact even more soft. I dont know, thats what I think.
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#7 AirApache

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Posted 19 April 2005 - 10:51 PM

Well...aerodynamics may have a minimal effect but in essence it's the porous foam thats causing the most drag. Not so sure about the flatter tip. You might be right, but I'm also thinking that a flatter tip COULD cause more surface area to hit the person, so it wouldn't affect how much it hurt them.
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#8 J cobbers

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Posted 20 April 2005 - 12:09 PM

stock darts would get more air resitance b/c they have a broader tip than home made stephans. The uniformity of a flat head means that as long as your weights are centered the dart won't have anything pulling it in an odd direction in flight. I find my flat darts fly better than ones with rough hot glue tips.
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#9 1313

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Posted 20 April 2005 - 01:52 PM

I use an ice cobe because for me it works SO much better. But yes ice water works fairly good also though. Then again you dont have to get a new ice cube ever 10 minutes but you can "form" every one of them to look exatcly alike for more accuracy. Thannks to cxwq for that idea, I highly recommend it.
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#10 ssgtsiler

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Posted 23 April 2005 - 02:51 PM

Well, I have built up a small resistance to hot glue burns (it might be that im using a low temp) and after you dip it in the water once, it forms an outer skin that you can mold without getting burnt. With my method, I can turn 20' of PFCS (FBR) into stefans in about 20 minutes. I am not totally sure of the time, but it goes pretty damn fast, much faster than the old method.
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#11 Jakethesnake

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Posted 24 April 2005 - 12:52 AM

About the flat tip dart/pain theory, think of it like this, the dome tipped darts are like doing a cannon ball in the water, it doesn't hurt to jump in, but a flat tipped dart is like a belly flop, it hurts like a mother, so, I think flat tips would hurt more, but again, that's just my theory.
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#12 notorious oxide

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Posted 24 April 2005 - 03:59 AM

About the flat tip dart/pain theory, think of it like this, the dome tipped darts are like doing a cannon ball in the water, it doesn't hurt to jump in, but a flat tipped dart is like a belly flop, it hurts like a mother, so, I think flat tips would hurt more, but again, that's just my theory.

if you get a pin and somehow balance it upright on your skin with 100G weight on it it would probably hurt a bit but if you get a coin with a 100g weight on it it would not be painful unless you are really sensitive. it makes no sense to me now that i think about it but hopefully it makes sense to other people. and i do notice that this is going a little off topic, sorry
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#13 MattPaintballer

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Posted 24 April 2005 - 05:28 PM

Okay I'm really confused. When I first went out to buy Stefan materials, I got 1/2" FBR and copper-coated BB's for micro Stefans. After reading some more, I found out that BB's aren't that great for weights. So I went out and got 5/8" FBR and 3/0 Split Shot sinkers for mega Stefans, and some BB-sized Split Shot sinkers for micro Stefans. Are these the correct materials? If not, what are the correct materials? And what length should I make my darts?
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#14 doctorsparkles

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Posted 24 April 2005 - 06:18 PM

About the flat tip dart/pain theory, think of it like this, the dome tipped darts are like doing a cannon ball in the water, it doesn't hurt to jump in, but a flat tipped dart is like a belly flop, it hurts like a mother, so, I think flat tips would hurt more, but again, that's just my theory.

if you get a pin and somehow balance it upright on your skin with 100G weight on it it would probably hurt a bit but if you get a coin with a 100g weight on it it would not be painful unless you are really sensitive. it makes no sense to me now that i think about it but hopefully it makes sense to other people. and i do notice that this is going a little off topic, sorry

Doing a cannonball hurts less than a belly flop because a more aerodynamic shape will cut through the water easier, rather than just slapping against it.
As for the pin versus coin thing, it's all about weight distribution. I don't think this can really be applied to nerf darts though, because the surface area of a domed tip isn't all that much less than a flat tipped dart. If anything, the domed tip dart will hurt more because it's more aerodynamic and will be moving at a higher rate of speed than a flat dart would.
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#15 NerfMonkey

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Posted 24 April 2005 - 07:23 PM

Matt, I've also heard that fishing weights are better than BBs, but my results are about the same. For micros, shotgun size or otherwise, I just use BBs. 3/0 fishing weights would probably be good for megas. Just use whatever is best in your darts is all I can say.
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#16 Ash

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Posted 24 April 2005 - 07:28 PM

Heh, I always just wet the tip of my finger and flattened out the tip that way...

Another method for quick cooling of hot glue is to buy some compressed air for cleaning computer keyboards. You turn it upside down and spray it at the hotglue, the gas inside comes out as a compressed liquid which is very cold. Also, there is some stuff marketed as a Gum Remover that you can buy. This shoots out very cold as to harden the gum so you can get it off easier. Either one works quite well, I used to use it often when using hotglue in mods as a temporary hold.
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#17 MattPaintballer

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Posted 24 April 2005 - 07:54 PM

About dropping the dart in ice water, do you just drop the foam in or do you drop everything, including the glue tip, in the water? And what length should I make my darts?
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#18 ssgtsiler

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Posted 25 April 2005 - 10:57 AM

I drop or "dip" the dart in. If you are using a Low-Temp glue gun, dipping it in for a second should work cool it down enough, because the water will cool down the glue enough so you can put it on the work surface without it sticking to other things. If you are using a High-Temp glue gun, you should keep the darts in the water for a longer time. For the lengh, I dont make them too long (more than 2 in), because they bend and or spin out, and I dont straighten them out with a hair dryer. So, make them about 1.5 in?

Edited by ssgtsiler, 25 April 2005 - 11:00 AM.

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#19 Nerforbust

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Posted 25 April 2005 - 07:00 PM

I keep my stefans in a 10' peice of PVC(to go straight), is that a good idea?
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#20 ssgtsiler

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Posted 26 April 2005 - 07:18 PM

Sounds good, but it might take longer than other methods.
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