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Boltsniper's Homemade

Trying to make it

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#76 GeneralPrimevil

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Posted 18 April 2005 - 06:31 AM

This is an older topic, but I have something relevent to my version.
Schematic.
It's the electrical schematic to my rifle. Here's the parts:
Fuse: In line -- 1.75A.
Resistor(1): Solenoid -- 12VDC, .84A, 10W, 3/32x1/16 orifice.
Resistor(2): Solenoid -- same as above, only less watts and amps, plus outer dimensions are a third the size. Same orifice.
Resistor(3): Anything I feel like putting here (Laser, Halogen concentrated beam, etc.)
Switch(1): Three way, momentary, lever -- Max. 125VAC-15A.
Switch(2): Two way, momentary, pushbutton -- .25A@250VAC, .75A@125VAC.
Switch(3): Three way, (don't know what it's called), lever -- Max. 15A@125VAC, 10A@250VAC.

Edited by GeneralPrimevil, 19 April 2005 - 06:59 PM.

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"Fear the man with one gun, for he probably knows how to use it."

#77 boltsniper

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Posted 18 April 2005 - 11:34 AM

Looks good. Why do you have two banks of batteries? Just for backup? Unless your solenoids are taking massive amount of current then I would omit one set of batteries. I beleive you mentioned these being large batteries anyway , so you should be fine on the current front. Typically a fuse would be placed ahead of the components you want to protect rather than behind.

Good luck with your project. We hope to see more soon.

Edited by boltsniper, 18 April 2005 - 10:01 PM.

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#78 jdp204

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Posted 18 April 2005 - 05:07 PM

What are the selenoids for? Is he making an air tank like on potato gun?
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#79 GeneralPrimevil

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Posted 19 April 2005 - 05:46 AM

I am using pressurized air to shoot the gun. That way I can later take some of the components and modify them to make this thing better.

Whoops. I forgot to mark polarity. And I screwed up the 3-ways. Okay, negative on top, positive on bottom. I won't bother fixing the schematic link. So technically the fuse (if I bother to wire it in) will be in front of the solenoids, unless you mean between the switches and solenoids.

Yes the other battery is a backup. I'm using just run of the mill rechargeable 9V cells, like what can be bought at Walgreens. The firing solenoid is always closed, until current enters, then it is open. The fill valve, I am starting to wonder now, I think I will wire for always open until current passes through. That way I don't have to worry too much about the pressure of the tank when firing rapidly. Although that completely makes a ring trigger pointless. I'll just cut part of it off to make it a curved trigger. B)

I'll edit that last post when I have time. Like in an hour.
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"Fear the man with one gun, for he probably knows how to use it."


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