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Detailing Paint

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#1 Novah13

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 03:12 AM

I wish to ask you guys about what paints you guys use to personalize your blasters:
-Do you guys have a preferred brand for primer?

-Is vinyl dye from one brand compatible with a base enamel of a different brand?

-What do you guys use for detailing paint?

 

I know Citadel paint is very good and very trusted, but it's rather expensive in my opinion and the nearest vendor is a 3 hour drive from where I live. I'm wondering if there is any other brands people have.

 

Thanks in advance for your guys' input.


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#2 Meaker VI

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 09:58 AM

Vinyl dye isnt primer, it changes the plastic. If youre painting over it, youd still want primer.

I just use cheap craft acrylics and Rustoleum 2x rattle cans. Works well as long as you sand and follow the directions on coats/curing.

Edited by Meaker VI, 12 December 2017 - 09:58 AM.

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#3 Vim Fuego

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 04:57 PM

I mostly use Rustoleum spraycans too, but also Dulux, White Knight and Tamiya sometimes for specific colours. I use Tamiya enamels for detailing and drybrushing, and Tamiya acrylics for weathering - that way the weathering doesn't disturb the paint underneath while you work on it. I also use AK Interactive enamel dyes for grime and rust details, but you need to be careful with these and make sure to let your primary coats cure properly before using them.

 

I've heard good things about the Mig Jimenez range, but mostly concerning airbrushing - not sure how they perform with brushes...

 

Also, green Scotch Pads are excellent for surface prep if all you need is a light scuffing.


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#4 Novah13

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 07:59 PM


Also, green Scotch Pads are excellent for surface prep if all you need is a light scuffing.

 

I never actually thought about using Scotch pads, I've been using fine grit sandpaper but I find it hard to get into the contours of certain shells. Thanks for the tip.

 

Vinyl dye isnt primer, it changes the plastic. If youre painting over it, youd still want primer.
 

 

I've never actually used Vinyl dye, only primer and base coat, so then would I use the dye then primer or vice versa? And if it isn't used as primer than why use it?

 

Sorry for the noob questions, most of my experience with painting has been with wood and metal. I painted an N64 once with a paint+primer and it turned out nice but not 100%, I really would like to improve the quality of my work. Thanks again for the help, this community rocks!


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#5 Meaker VI

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Posted 13 December 2017 - 10:38 AM

 I've never actually used Vinyl dye, only primer and base coat, so then would I use the dye then primer or vice versa? And if it isn't used as primer than why use it?


Dye then prime, proper dye shouldnt work on paint (there are some brands that are called dye but are actually paint/primer IIRC). Use it if its your only coat, or if youre leaving it exposed, or if youre worried about/planning damage later to the paint that the plastic will show through.
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#6 nerfnub

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Posted 13 December 2017 - 04:48 PM

I'm a noob to painting, but found the Sharpie oil-based paint pens to be pretty easy to use and look good for detailing (logos, screws, fine lines).  Home Depot has them in a 5-pack that will cover common detail colors (Gloss Black, Gloss White, Silver, Gold, Red).  The silver and gold are supposed to be metallic and have some shimmer to them, but not as much as a metallic spraypaint. Black and White Gloss seem to match my Rustoleum sprays well.


Edited by nerfnub, 13 December 2017 - 04:48 PM.

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#7 Meaker VI

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Posted 13 December 2017 - 10:51 PM

I'm a noob to painting, but found the Sharpie oil-based paint pens to be pretty easy to use and look good for detailing (logos, screws, fine lines).  Home Depot has them in a 5-pack that will cover common detail colors (Gloss Black, Gloss White, Silver, Gold, Red).  The silver and gold are supposed to be metallic and have some shimmer to them, but not as much as a metallic spraypaint. Black and White Gloss seem to match my Rustoleum sprays well.

 

On the topics of metalics, I used the silver Sharpie and silver Rub-N-Buff technique Adam Savage recommends in his NERF blaster painting video.


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#8 meow121325

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Posted 18 December 2017 - 09:38 AM

does krylon short-cuts spray paint work on nerf guns and if it does do you have to put primer down then the paint and is there any primer that works with the krylon short-cuts paint


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#9 Meaker VI

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Posted 18 December 2017 - 06:15 PM

does krylon short-cuts spray paint work on nerf guns and if it does do you have to put primer down then the paint and is there any primer that works with the krylon short-cuts paint


Probably, probably, read the can.

Typically, any paint can be made to adhere, you just need the right surface prep. Usually this means sand & prime. Some paints may not work with some primers though, and some primers won't work well on plastics. The can(s) should tell you the process required.
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#10 meow121325

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Posted 18 December 2017 - 09:00 PM

Probably, probably, read the can.Typically, any paint can be made to adhere, you just need the right surface prep. Usually this means sand & prime. Some paints may not work with some primers though, and some primers won't work well on plastics. The can(s) should tell you the process required.


It works on plastics but any recommendations on primers

Edited by meow121325, 18 December 2017 - 09:52 PM.

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#11 Meaker VI

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Posted 19 December 2017 - 07:23 PM

It works on plastics but any recommendations on primers

 

Find one that says "works on plastic". I've used Rustoleum 2x as a primer & paint, applied in light coats after sanding & washing the whole blaster.


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#12 meow121325

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Posted 24 December 2017 - 04:00 PM

I used a Rustoleum plastic spray paint but do you guys have any tips when putting detail paint on and any recommendations of what type and brand of detail paint with this brand of spray paint it applied VERY well to my Raven the grip and multiple other places look professional
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#13 Vim Fuego

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Posted 08 January 2018 - 03:46 AM

If you want it to be hard-wearing - for grips and the like - use enamels for your drybrushing and details. It'll last longer than acrylic which will always be a bit soft, no matter how dry it gets.

 

If it's just for show and not handled too often, you can get away with acrylic which is a lot easier to work with and clean up. It does tend to dry faster too, which can be a help in some cases.


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