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Motors for IMRs?


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#1 Electronic Leopard

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Posted 09 November 2017 - 10:39 AM

hello, i recently bought a stryfe and 3 efest IMRs with a dummy battery. i removed the thermistor and locks, and i was wondering which motors i should get? i know i should go lipo, but it's too much for me to handle right now so i'm sticking to IMRs. thanks for the help!


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#2 Meaker VI

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Posted 09 November 2017 - 04:39 PM

So, just so we're clear, you're down with rewiring (since new motors require rewiring) and spending money on batteries, but not on doing it right? IMR's & charger are going to be about as much as Lipo/NiMH/NiCad (if you don't like Lipo for some reason other than rewiring) & charger, and just less powerful or reliable.

 

IMR's are meant as a stop-gap method before full rewires and result in a modded-but-basically-stock blaster. They don't have the power to drive mod-motors to their full potential and the market for a mod-motor that is actually just a stock motor doesn't exist for obvious reasons*.

 

That said, if you still choose to continue on this route, pick whatever motors you want knowing you're underpowering them and plan for whatever battery pack size you want to upgrade to later. 2s packs need 2s motors, 3s packs need 3s motors. Although I'm planning to run a 20v Lion drill pack on my 3s motors (had a Lipo, don't like not also having the charger) and we'll see what happens!

 

*if not obvious: It's because they come with the stock blasters


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#3 Electronic Leopard

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 04:04 PM

So, just so we're clear, you're down with rewiring (since new motors require rewiring) and spending money on batteries, but not on doing it right? IMR's & charger are going to be about as much as Lipo/NiMH/NiCad (if you don't like Lipo for some reason other than rewiring) & charger, and just less powerful or reliable.

 

IMR's are meant as a stop-gap method before full rewires and result in a modded-but-basically-stock blaster. They don't have the power to drive mod-motors to their full potential and the market for a mod-motor that is actually just a stock motor doesn't exist for obvious reasons*.

 

That said, if you still choose to continue on this route, pick whatever motors you want knowing you're underpowering them and plan for whatever battery pack size you want to upgrade to later. 2s packs need 2s motors, 3s packs need 3s motors. Although I'm planning to run a 20v Lion drill pack on my 3s motors (had a Lipo, don't like not also having the charger) and we'll see what happens!

 

*if not obvious: It's because they come with the stock blasters

 

i'm not going lipo because of the dangers. i'm using IMR because you can't overcharge them and they are easier to take care of.


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#4 Draconis

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 04:46 PM

Congratulations, you're done with your project.  Unless you tear it all out and start over.


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#5 Meaker VI

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 04:57 PM

 
i'm not going lipo because of the dangers. i'm using IMR because you can't overcharge them and they are easier to take care of.

Then go NiMH, Nicad, Lion, etc etc. IMR cant deliver much beyond stock performance, which is why nobody does anything with them once theyve rewired.

Lipo is the highest performance battery (barring some possibly experimental/derivitive chemistries) for weight. Since we dont really need to worry about weight (or likewise, volume) in Nerf, Nimh and Nicad should also suffice; youll have a bugger heavier pack to do the same work but performance shouldn't suffer significantly.

I specifially asked Toruk on Reddit about Lion drill packs one time; normally Lion is not ideal but since a drill is a more demanding use than ours (and 20v!) he thought itd be fine. I have since found need of a battery driver and bought batteries to go with it at Harbor Freight; along with an inexpensive light that uses the same batteries. My plan is to take the light apart and wire it up to one of my blasters to see if it works, because I dont own the charger that accompanies my Lipo and these are more practical for me to keep around.

If you didnt want to go through all the hassle, you could probably just get the charger and battery and wire on your own connectors; but Lion is fickle and requires as much (if not MORE) care than Lipo. In the provided housing and with the charger, the drill batteries are idiot-resistant.

IIRC IMRs are a Lion chemistry in a AA package; so they still require special care. The main reasons theyre safer than Lipo are that they're pre-packaged and they don't have anywhere near the same potential energy.

Edited by Meaker VI, 10 November 2017 - 05:02 PM.

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#6 Electronic Leopard

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 10:22 PM

Then go NiMH, Nicad, Lion, etc etc. IMR cant deliver much beyond stock performance, which is why nobody does anything with them once theyve rewired.

Lipo is the highest performance battery (barring some possibly experimental/derivitive chemistries) for weight. Since we dont really need to worry about weight (or likewise, volume) in Nerf, Nimh and Nicad should also suffice; youll have a bugger heavier pack to do the same work but performance shouldn't suffer significantly.

I specifially asked Toruk on Reddit about Lion drill packs one time; normally Lion is not ideal but since a drill is a more demanding use than ours (and 20v!) he thought itd be fine. I have since found need of a battery driver and bought batteries to go with it at Harbor Freight; along with an inexpensive light that uses the same batteries. My plan is to take the light apart and wire it up to one of my blasters to see if it works, because I dont own the charger that accompanies my Lipo and these are more practical for me to keep around.

If you didnt want to go through all the hassle, you could probably just get the charger and battery and wire on your own connectors; but Lion is fickle and requires as much (if not MORE) care than Lipo. In the provided housing and with the charger, the drill batteries are idiot-resistant.

IIRC IMRs are a Lion chemistry in a AA package; so they still require special care. The main reasons theyre safer than Lipo are that they're pre-packaged and they don't have anywhere near the same potential energy.

 

what are the chances of a lipo going wrong?


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#7 Meaker VI

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Posted 10 November 2017 - 10:40 PM

My group has had to toss a few, but never exploded one. You have to pretty purposely treat them badly to damage them.

Lipos also live in your phone/laptop/mobile device, FYI
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#8 Electronic Leopard

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Posted 11 November 2017 - 11:14 AM

My group has had to toss a few, but never exploded one. You have to pretty purposely treat them badly to damage them.

Lipos also live in your phone/laptop/mobile device, FYI

so if i charge it outside on concrete and watch it the whole time i should be safe?


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#9 Meaker VI

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Posted 11 November 2017 - 12:45 PM

so if i charge it outside on concrete and watch it the whole time i should be safe?


Definitely, thatd be the safest possible way to keep them. I kept my charged battery just lying around in a box on a shelf.

Reccommended best-practice is charge while youre home on a non-combustible surface (concrete, metal), stop charging as soon as practical once finished, use charged batteries within a few days of charging or discharge to storage level, store in a non-airtight non-combustible container (ammo can with holes drilled in it). Also carry a (~$2) voltmeter to check the battery every so often to prevent overdischarge. These are simply extra precautions, your battery shouldnt spontaneously explode for no reason. If it has been damaged (punctured, dropped hard, overcharged, overheated, or overdishcharged) these precautions will prevent fire, but you can also tell if the battery is damaged and toss it rather than risk any issues.
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#10 Electronic Leopard

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Posted 11 November 2017 - 02:02 PM

Definitely, thatd be the safest possible way to keep them. I kept my charged battery just lying around in a box on a shelf.

Reccommended best-practice is charge while youre home on a non-combustible surface (concrete, metal), stop charging as soon as practical once finished, use charged batteries within a few days of charging or discharge to storage level, store in a non-airtight non-combustible container (ammo can with holes drilled in it). Also carry a (~$2) voltmeter to check the battery every so often to prevent overdischarge. These are simply extra precautions, your battery shouldnt spontaneously explode for no reason. If it has been damaged (punctured, dropped hard, overcharged, overheated, or overdishcharged) these precautions will prevent fire, but you can also tell if the battery is damaged and toss it rather than risk any issues.

 

okay, thanks for you help!


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