Is There Anything Better Then Plummer's Goop?
#1
Posted 11 August 2004 - 07:23 PM
#2
Posted 11 August 2004 - 07:27 PM
#3
Posted 11 August 2004 - 07:37 PM
Dont put on much goop, you dont need much. If its dense enough, its strong enough. More goop just gets in the way. If your blowing your seals, your adding too much pressure. Epoxy is nice, it doesnt seal, but if you epoxy something, wait 24 hours, and put goop on lightly to make it airtight, it gives satisfying results.
THIRST
#4
Posted 11 August 2004 - 07:39 PM
-If it's on the release valve (the hard plastic part with the release rod sticking out as on a SM1500/3000/5000, or an AT2000/3000/4000, or the pump body itself, then you may have to reinforce the break with plastic sheet or a section of PVC pipe of the appropriate diameter, cut to fit the broken area.
-If it's in the air lines from pump to valve, or the junction / joints between, then you'd have to build up the goop and eliminate all voids, and let the goop dry thoroughly, at least 24 hours or more.
Even then, Plumber's Goop, while probably the most effective, is not the miracle cure-all for leaks. Even the most durable appearing blasters have a limited lifespan, and eventually leak chronically; patch one area, and another will appear somewhere else. It's just the way it goes, at least with mine.
Hot glue for leaks? No thanks.
-Piney-
<!--quoteo(post=209846:date=Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM:name=boom)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(boom @ Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
It's to bad you live in hawaii I bet there are not many wars there.Wait what am I saying<b> you live in hawaii you lucky bastard.</b>
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#5
Posted 11 August 2004 - 07:46 PM
#6
Posted 12 August 2004 - 08:20 AM
#7
Posted 12 August 2004 - 10:22 AM
~Vintage
~Al Capone
#8
Posted 12 August 2004 - 01:30 PM
Apparently, there are at least five different types of Goops; Plumber's, Automotive, Sports, Household, and Marine. Same product in different colored tubes? Specialized for each application? Hmmm.
I have been using the Automotive stuff and have been happy with the results, the latest is the usual mending job on my SM5000 air tank. Good as usual.
-Piney-
<!--quoteo(post=209846:date=Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM:name=boom)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(boom @ Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
It's to bad you live in hawaii I bet there are not many wars there.Wait what am I saying<b> you live in hawaii you lucky bastard.</b>
<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
#9
Posted 12 August 2004 - 01:40 PM
#10
Posted 12 August 2004 - 02:39 PM
- Death
#11
Posted 12 August 2004 - 03:23 PM
Goop is pretty strong so you are probably doing something wrong when applying/letting it dry. Not much other stuff that is stronger and easily accessible. Altough I haven't tried JB weld yet.
edit: oh and don't epoxy first then goop like mentioned earlier, its pretty much useless. Just go 100% goop.
Edited by xedice, 12 August 2004 - 03:24 PM.
Doin' coke, drinkin' beers, Drinkin' beers beers beers
Rollin' fatties, Smokin' blunts
Who smokes the blunts? We smoke the blunts
-Jay
#12
Posted 12 August 2004 - 06:38 PM
since im a noob and the only nerf guns i had in my garage were the old school pink nerf bal blasters and an eagle eye, i been haveing to make do with the current stuff.
so this summer ive been useing a supersoaker liquidator for a primary.
its got a 12" brass barrel and a tank reduction.
the tank is a small section of 1 1/4" pvc with couplers (i know that might seem big for some ppl)
i jsut drilled 2 holes in it for the input and output. (this is where i got problems, i think its cuz the nature of jsut having tubes shoved in holes with a relatively loose fit.)
i dont have the release valve pugged cause orignally i diddnt really think the goop could take it. plus i got a big tank.
i get ranges of 80 feet with micro stefans 1 1/4" in length weighted with a single BB and bout 100' with stefans 2" lengh weighted wight 3/0 fishing weight.
blowing seals aside, the other downside is i have to pump bout 12 times. (dosent bother me though, i usually pump more then that cuz im not paying attention cuz i still got the release valve.
but as for the goop. i let it dry for 72 hrs, and i know not to put too much cause it cures by evaporation of a solvent, and big ass goops wont let the solvent evaporate properly.
so if my problems are just the nature of my set up some one tell me. if it is... what a shame cuz the design is super simple, and i love the breech valve of the supersoaker (its a ball valve that just snaps open and leave an opening about 1/4" hole for the air to rush out.)
any hoo... any help would be great
#13
Posted 13 August 2004 - 06:06 PM
It mihgt not be the best advice but it works very good for me. I put the hotglue on to hold the barrel in place and then I put the Goop on for extra support.Thats the worst advice you could give.
Dont put on much goop, you dont need much. If its dense enough, its strong enough. More goop just gets in the way. If your blowing your seals, your adding too much pressure. Epoxy is nice, it doesnt seal, but if you epoxy something, wait 24 hours, and put goop on lightly to make it airtight, it gives satisfying results.
THIRST
#14
Posted 15 August 2004 - 08:33 PM
Your barrels will have MUCH more support if you just do a direct gooping.It mihgt not be the best advice but it works very good for me. I put the hotglue on to hold the barrel in place and then I put the Goop on for extra support.Thats the worst advice you could give.
Dont put on much goop, you dont need much. If its dense enough, its strong enough. More goop just gets in the way. If your blowing your seals, your adding too much pressure. Epoxy is nice, it doesnt seal, but if you epoxy something, wait 24 hours, and put goop on lightly to make it airtight, it gives satisfying results.
THIRST
#15
Posted 16 August 2004 - 02:17 PM
Moose
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