Jump to content


Photo

Is There Anything Better Then Plummer's Goop?


14 replies to this topic

#1 Drano

Drano

    Member

  • Members
  • 103 posts
  • Location:Pasadena, CA

Posted 11 August 2004 - 07:23 PM

does anybody know of any sealant beter then plummer's goop? I dont know if im just applying it wrong or what. but i keep blowing my seals
  • 0

#2 moosenukem

moosenukem

    Member

  • Members
  • 405 posts

Posted 11 August 2004 - 07:27 PM

Try hot glue for most seals then put plumbers goop on. Make sure you let it dry for at least 24 hours though.
  • 0

#3 THIRST

THIRST

    Member

  • Members
  • 1,099 posts

Posted 11 August 2004 - 07:37 PM

Thats the worst advice you could give.

Dont put on much goop, you dont need much. If its dense enough, its strong enough. More goop just gets in the way. If your blowing your seals, your adding too much pressure. Epoxy is nice, it doesnt seal, but if you epoxy something, wait 24 hours, and put goop on lightly to make it airtight, it gives satisfying results.

THIRST
  • 0
ko

#4 Pineapple

Pineapple

    Old-school Admin

  • Contributors
  • 1,377 posts

Posted 11 August 2004 - 07:39 PM

It really depends on where your leak is located;

-If it's on the release valve (the hard plastic part with the release rod sticking out as on a SM1500/3000/5000, or an AT2000/3000/4000, or the pump body itself, then you may have to reinforce the break with plastic sheet or a section of PVC pipe of the appropriate diameter, cut to fit the broken area.

-If it's in the air lines from pump to valve, or the junction / joints between, then you'd have to build up the goop and eliminate all voids, and let the goop dry thoroughly, at least 24 hours or more.

Even then, Plumber's Goop, while probably the most effective, is not the miracle cure-all for leaks. Even the most durable appearing blasters have a limited lifespan, and eventually leak chronically; patch one area, and another will appear somewhere else. It's just the way it goes, at least with mine.

Hot glue for leaks? No thanks.

-Piney-
  • 0
-Piney- of White Dog Hobbies Armory


<!--quoteo(post=209846:date=Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM:name=boom)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(boom @ Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM) View Post</div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
It's to bad you live in hawaii I bet there are not many wars there.Wait what am I saying<b> you live in hawaii you lucky bastard.</b>
<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

#5 okto

okto

    Member

  • Members
  • 590 posts
  • Location:tulsa OK/fort worth TX

Posted 11 August 2004 - 07:46 PM

also, how long are you letting your goop set? it needs 48 hours to cure to full strength.
  • 0

#6 EDA

EDA

    Member

  • Members
  • 11 posts

Posted 12 August 2004 - 08:20 AM

To answer your question Drano, I would try JB Weld it is cheap and highly efficent.
  • 0

#7 Vintage

Vintage

    Member

  • Members
  • 462 posts
  • Location:Minnesota

Posted 12 August 2004 - 10:22 AM

I was at Target the other day, and saw on an endcap "Household Goop." It was made by the same brand, had the same type of tube, and came with the same spout addition. The differences were the listed bond elements and the color of the tube. Plastic is clearly stated as one of it's uses. I didn't buy any, because I already have a ton of the plumber's kind, but it might be worth checking out.

~Vintage
  • 0
You can get much further with a kind word and a gun than you can with a kind word alone
~Al Capone

#8 Pineapple

Pineapple

    Old-school Admin

  • Contributors
  • 1,377 posts

Posted 12 August 2004 - 01:30 PM

Yeah Vintage, I've been using "Automotive" Goop for the last month now, only because my hardware store ran out of Plumber's Goop.

Apparently, there are at least five different types of Goops; Plumber's, Automotive, Sports, Household, and Marine. Same product in different colored tubes? Specialized for each application? Hmmm.

I have been using the Automotive stuff and have been happy with the results, the latest is the usual mending job on my SM5000 air tank. Good as usual.

-Piney-
  • 0
-Piney- of White Dog Hobbies Armory


<!--quoteo(post=209846:date=Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM:name=boom)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(boom @ Feb 5 2009, 06:27 PM) View Post</div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
It's to bad you live in hawaii I bet there are not many wars there.Wait what am I saying<b> you live in hawaii you lucky bastard.</b>
<!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->

#9 okto

okto

    Member

  • Members
  • 590 posts
  • Location:tulsa OK/fort worth TX

Posted 12 August 2004 - 01:40 PM

some are UV resistant, some are stronger, some set faster. read the packages.
  • 0

#10 Zero Talent

Zero Talent

    Member

  • Contributors
  • 606 posts

Posted 12 August 2004 - 02:39 PM

There are some nice, well-sealing epoxies out there. Oddly, after about three different types I've come to like this stuff made by... [predictably] GOOP. Point is, works with all materials I've used save for Polypropylene. Just a mite expensive, a bit more involved than Plumber's Goop, as well as useless for flexible applications.
  • 0
"'Revere me as hot! All others are not! THIS, I COMMAND!'"
- Death

#11 xedice

xedice

    Member

  • Members
  • 306 posts

Posted 12 August 2004 - 03:23 PM

Epoxy is so brittle, I hate it. I used to love it and use it for anything but goop is just more durable and seals leaks unmatched. My kind is unlabeled, but it is clear and dries like rubber. Hot glue is useless for seals, don't listen. Contrary to thrist, I put on loads and loads of goop... When I first used it my seals kept blowing, especially on my SM1500 where the tube connects to the airtank. I redid it this time, putting goop inside and out, a big huge clump of it. I'm pretty sure if I pumped it until failure, some other joint would blow first because that connection is as solid as a rock... anyway, it has been functional ever since.

Goop is pretty strong so you are probably doing something wrong when applying/letting it dry. Not much other stuff that is stronger and easily accessible. Altough I haven't tried JB weld yet.

edit: oh and don't epoxy first then goop like mentioned earlier, its pretty much useless. Just go 100% goop.

Edited by xedice, 12 August 2004 - 03:24 PM.

  • 0
Shmokin' weed, Shmokin' wizz
Doin' coke, drinkin' beers, Drinkin' beers beers beers
Rollin' fatties, Smokin' blunts
Who smokes the blunts? We smoke the blunts
-Jay

#12 Drano

Drano

    Member

  • Members
  • 103 posts
  • Location:Pasadena, CA

Posted 12 August 2004 - 06:38 PM

ok, well imma get everybody on the same page.

since im a noob and the only nerf guns i had in my garage were the old school pink nerf bal blasters and an eagle eye, i been haveing to make do with the current stuff.

so this summer ive been useing a supersoaker liquidator for a primary.

its got a 12" brass barrel and a tank reduction.

the tank is a small section of 1 1/4" pvc with couplers (i know that might seem big for some ppl)

i jsut drilled 2 holes in it for the input and output. (this is where i got problems, i think its cuz the nature of jsut having tubes shoved in holes with a relatively loose fit.)

i dont have the release valve pugged cause orignally i diddnt really think the goop could take it. plus i got a big tank.

i get ranges of 80 feet with micro stefans 1 1/4" in length weighted with a single BB and bout 100' with stefans 2" lengh weighted wight 3/0 fishing weight.

blowing seals aside, the other downside is i have to pump bout 12 times. (dosent bother me though, i usually pump more then that cuz im not paying attention cuz i still got the release valve.


but as for the goop. i let it dry for 72 hrs, and i know not to put too much cause it cures by evaporation of a solvent, and big ass goops wont let the solvent evaporate properly.

so if my problems are just the nature of my set up some one tell me. if it is... what a shame cuz the design is super simple, and i love the breech valve of the supersoaker (its a ball valve that just snaps open and leave an opening about 1/4" hole for the air to rush out.)
any hoo... any help would be great
  • 0

#13 moosenukem

moosenukem

    Member

  • Members
  • 405 posts

Posted 13 August 2004 - 06:06 PM

Thats the worst advice you could give.

Dont put on much goop, you dont need much. If its dense enough, its strong enough. More goop just gets in the way. If your blowing your seals, your adding too much pressure. Epoxy is nice, it doesnt seal, but if you epoxy something, wait 24 hours, and put goop on lightly to make it airtight, it gives satisfying results.

THIRST

It mihgt not be the best advice but it works very good for me. I put the hotglue on to hold the barrel in place and then I put the Goop on for extra support.
  • 0

#14 LiKnSmAkScOmIn

LiKnSmAkScOmIn

    Member

  • Members
  • 292 posts

Posted 15 August 2004 - 08:33 PM

Thats the worst advice you could give.

Dont put on much goop, you dont need much. If its dense enough, its strong enough.  More goop just gets in the way.  If your blowing your seals, your adding too much pressure.  Epoxy is nice, it doesnt seal, but if you epoxy something, wait 24 hours, and put goop on lightly to make it airtight, it gives satisfying results.

THIRST

It mihgt not be the best advice but it works very good for me. I put the hotglue on to hold the barrel in place and then I put the Goop on for extra support.

Your barrels will have MUCH more support if you just do a direct gooping.
  • 0
Morons With Guns own you.

#15 moosenukem

moosenukem

    Member

  • Members
  • 405 posts

Posted 16 August 2004 - 02:17 PM

Well see for me the hot glue keeps the barrel steady so you can get it straight, and then I put goop over the glue. Works very good for me cause before when I just gooped it I couldn't get the barrel straight.

Moose
  • 0


0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users