5 replies to this topic

[CaptainSlug]

This setup seems to be feeding silicone dome darts fairly well so long as they don't exceed 1-1/2" in total length. But I'll have to war-test this to be sure. I've made three of these and one of them got a little mangled in the process of cutting the corner so I cut it in half to make a cross-sectional model.

Red: I used a Burr Bit to cut the inside of the corner inside the Wye. Alternatively a small round rasp, pocket knife (curved blade), or a dremel sanding drum could all be used. Remove as much material here as you can.

 

Blue: This is a "knife" made out of 1/16" thick polcarbonate that acts as a ramp. Other plastics could be used and the shape really doesn't need to be very thick to work. It also prevents suction-loading and makes backing a dart out through the supply tube much easier.  Template The SCH80 stub behind it has a slot cut into it to accept the tabs so that the "knife" can't rotate out of alignment after the stub is glued or screwed in place.

 

Flute: I drilled out SCH80 CPVC to 5/8", then drilled half inch deep with an 11/16" bit (to match the ID of the Wye). I then used the Burr Bit to smooth the transition between the sizes. Then used a knife to clean up the rest. And lastly I cut the top side at an angle so that it doesn't impede the inside of the corner.

[Aeromech]

Very useful for all the burgeoning wacky darts. My question about the "knife" part though: Could a simple nail through the back be used instead? To my knowledge, it is customary to sink a nail in at a bisecting angle to the two rear PVC female ends on the wye, essentially guiding darts like the 1/16" polycarb does, but without machining plastic, or relying on adhesives to hold two dissimilar plastics in place.

[CaptainSlug]

Yes, you could alternatively make a ramp using a nail or wire of some kind either flat or curved through the wye lengthwise. Polycarbonate this thin can actually be cut by scissors, and softer plastics like ABS will work just as well, so you could 3D print the part if you wanted to.

 

The polycarbonate isn't glue in place, the PVC Stub it's wedged into is.

 

The whole point of this is to prevent the tip of certain darts from taking a dive into the floor of the wye.

[CaptainSlug]

Going off of what Aeromech suggested I decided to try this and it worked just as well as machining a "knife" out of polycarbonate did. It's also way more repeatable and takes less effort and adjustment.

Step 1: Drill a small hole in through the flat area on the dart supply end of the wye. I'm using 1/16" stainless steel weld rod so I drilled this hole to .067"

Step 2: Cut a 1-1/2" to 1-5/8" long piece of weld rod.

Step 3: Feed it through the hole until it bottoms out.

Step 4: Using a pair of long needle nose pliers, grab the inside end of the weld rod and push it forwards in the wye until the opposite end of it is no longer sticking out of the top side of the hole.

 

You end up with a slightly curved ramp of stainless steel that serves the same function that the knife did. It will also prevent the darts from suction loading into the plunger tube.

 

 

BONUS STEP 5: Use the end of the nail to retain a strip of teflon. Making your hopper much more compatible with silicone-tipped darts. You can adjust the location of this strip as-needed. Mine are typically leading ALL the way up to the back of the barrel itself.

[Draconis]

For someone without stainless rod, how about finishing nails?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#97828A603

[CaptainSlug]

Yeah, those will probably work. As will other types of brad nails.