Buzz Bee Sentinel Mods
#1
Posted 20 June 2016 - 06:46 PM
I was wondering if anyone on here has any experience modding a Sentinel! I know Make Test Battle did a brass breech and replacement spring mod, but they did not show how they did it. (I am very inexperienced with brass breeching). If anyone could help me out that would be great!
#2
Posted 20 June 2016 - 06:53 PM
I'm working on a writeup for brass, though someone will probably beat me to it. In the meantime, read Van's guide.
http://nerfhaven.com...ek-basic-guide/
"sexual innuendo no intendo"
#3
Posted 20 June 2016 - 09:29 PM
Talk to Snoop Doggy Doge, He loves that blaster. I'm working on an X-Setinel but I need to work on my pusher angle on my breech and a few other things before it sees the light of day in a NIC war. But it's running a full Century C-810 and the stock spring pretty respectably.
....Fear of a Nerf Planet!
#4
Posted 20 June 2016 - 10:02 PM
I wouldn't add a brass breech. Mine has it and while it's nice I don't think it's necessary. Just add a stronger spring, some reinforcements, knock out the AR and you'll be hitting very respectable ranges with far less jamming, chopped darts, etc. A uni-breech works very well if you have one, though.
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#5
Posted 20 June 2016 - 10:38 PM
yeaa, Sentinel hits 120ish with USCs and just AR banged out,
You don't need much and it's great. I used it and it's HVZ legal, works fine for superstock
You don't really need a brass breech IMO, and follow my amazing guide (8ish+ hours put into that) like Blitz linked,
Edited by Snoop Doggy doge, 20 June 2016 - 10:39 PM.
I'm Van, the weird kid with a box
Triggered as fuck and ready to gun you down
#NoBarrelTapsNoMercy
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#6
Posted 21 June 2016 - 08:11 AM
yeaa, Sentinel hits 120ish with USCs and just AR banged out,
You don't need much and it's great. I used it and it's HVZ legal, works fine for superstock
You don't really need a brass breech IMO, and follow my amazing guide (8ish+ hours put into that) like Blitz linked,
12998416_10150698643564980_7471767654097071132_o.jpg
I have a couple of questions to ask you about your spring replacement. First of all, how did you make your cpvc ring out of a cpvc coupler? Did you just use a pipe cutter to cut it? And what is its dimensions? Second of all, did you put in a non cut-down [k26] in there ontop of the stock spring? And if it is cut down, how many coils?
Sorry for the large amount of questions
Edited by Vexal, 21 June 2016 - 08:12 AM.
#7
Posted 21 June 2016 - 10:11 AM
I have a couple of questions to ask you about your spring replacement. First of all, how did you make your cpvc ring out of a cpvc coupler? Did you just use a pipe cutter to cut it?
You display a common misconception about PVC/CPVC: It's difficult to cut. Any saw, knife, pipe cutter, etc. etc., should work just fine. Serrated blades are easier since you don't need to make the cut in one go, but I'd be surprised if a good chef or butcher couldn't cut a piece of PVC with a large kitchen knife in one whack. I have cut it with a piece of string. So yes, just use whatever tool you use for cutting and cut the coupler down to a ring.
#8
Posted 21 June 2016 - 11:47 AM
You display a common misconception about PVC/CPVC: It's difficult to cut. Any saw, knife, pipe cutter, etc. etc., should work just fine. Serrated blades are easier since you don't need to make the cut in one go, but I'd be surprised if a good chef or butcher couldn't cut a piece of PVC with a large kitchen knife in one whack. I have cut it with a piece of string. So yes, just use whatever tool you use for cutting and cut the coupler down to a ring.
^What Meaker said, though I used a hacksaw and a vice
yea it's a CPVC 1/2 in coupler that's a few milimeters.
A cut down [k26] needs to 13 coils in a sentinel
I have no idea what spring is in the Sentinel spring combo, just test and add. TBH though, I don't think it needs an extra spring because it's equivelant to a 7kg retaliator in performance. Remove the AR, you got 100 FPS at least ( I get around 110 with USCs)
I'm Van, the weird kid with a box
Triggered as fuck and ready to gun you down
#NoBarrelTapsNoMercy
#GoFastGoFurious
"Stone Cold Operator of Death" -Clownie
#9
Posted 21 June 2016 - 01:19 PM
#10
Posted 21 June 2016 - 02:53 PM
You only put the [k26] in, no need for the stock spring after that. You should do the reinforcement with that mod too,
The ring gives a place for the spring to rest and compress because there is little room for a spring to sit and compress otherwise.
I'm Van, the weird kid with a box
Triggered as fuck and ready to gun you down
#NoBarrelTapsNoMercy
#GoFastGoFurious
"Stone Cold Operator of Death" -Clownie
#11
Posted 21 June 2016 - 03:53 PM
You only put the [k26] in, no need for the stock spring after that. You should do the reinforcement with that mod too,
The ring gives a place for the spring to rest and compress because there is little room for a spring to sit and compress otherwise.
Ok so the new CPVC ring is meant to be a better support for the new spring to rest and compress on rather then the stock spot where the stock spring rested on?
#12
Posted 22 June 2016 - 12:17 AM
Yes. It's because the spring will slip off and won't compress otherwise. Just, fucking do it, that ring really isn't that hard to cut,
I'm Van, the weird kid with a box
Triggered as fuck and ready to gun you down
#NoBarrelTapsNoMercy
#GoFastGoFurious
"Stone Cold Operator of Death" -Clownie
#13
Posted 22 June 2016 - 12:53 AM
Ok so the new CPVC ring is meant to be a better support for the new spring to rest and compress on rather then the stock spot where the stock spring rested on?
Yes, it's a new spring rest. I actually used a 1/2" PVC coupler with about 1/4 of it cut off (I used a band saw but there are many ways to do this) and it fits in perfectly. A [k26] won't fit without reaming the coupler out, though, but that's done easily enough with a dremel. I ended up using some random spring that fit and seemed pretty strong.
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#14
Posted 22 June 2016 - 04:52 PM
Yes, it's a new spring rest. I actually used a 1/2" PVC coupler with about 1/4 of it cut off (I used a band saw but there are many ways to do this) and it fits in perfectly. A [k26] won't fit without reaming the coupler out, though, but that's done easily enough with a dremel. I ended up using some random spring that fit and seemed pretty strong.
So you used the 1/4 piece you cut off?
#15
Posted 22 June 2016 - 05:53 PM
So you used the 1/4 piece you cut off?
No I slipped it over the stock orange piece with the cut end facing towards the front of the blaster.
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#16
Posted 22 June 2016 - 06:10 PM
No I slipped it over the stock orange piece with the cut end facing towards the front of the blaster.
Was it the outside 1/4th that you used or the inside part with the ridge?
#17
Posted 22 June 2016 - 07:47 PM
This diagram should explain it. I threw the 1/4" long piece away. The ridge is resting against the orange piece and prevents the coupler from sliding backwards.
Edited by The2ndBluesBro, 22 June 2016 - 07:50 PM.
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#18
Posted 22 June 2016 - 08:25 PM
This diagram should explain it. I threw the 1/4" long piece away. The ridge is resting against the orange piece and prevents the coupler from sliding backwards.
Here is what I interpreted from your diagram. Let me know if I got this right or not. http://imgur.com/SZgQeLj
#19
Posted 22 June 2016 - 11:09 PM
There's a literal fucking guide I poured 8+ hours on and I feel insulted that you didn't read through it, because this is shown in the picture. I don't get what's unclear, /endsalt
I have no idea what your interpretation is, but there are pictures that show what it should look like HERE under spring replacement
I'm Van, the weird kid with a box
Triggered as fuck and ready to gun you down
#NoBarrelTapsNoMercy
#GoFastGoFurious
"Stone Cold Operator of Death" -Clownie
#20
Posted 22 June 2016 - 11:42 PM
There's a literal fucking guide I poured 8+ hours on and I feel insulted that you didn't read through it, because this is shown in the picture. I don't get what's unclear, /endsalt
I have no idea what your interpretation is, but there are pictures that show what it should look like HERE under spring replacement
Dude trust me, I studied that guide. And it's well done. And I see what it looks like, but 2ndBluesBro is showing me a different way about how it's done, which I think is the same thing as yours but with excess pipe
#21
Posted 23 June 2016 - 12:59 AM
Here is what I interpreted from your diagram. Let me know if I got this right or not. http://imgur.com/SZgQeLj
Yes that's what I did. There's not much difference between the two ways of doing it.
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#22
Posted 23 June 2016 - 01:08 AM
#23
Posted 25 June 2016 - 03:07 PM
You cut down to 13 coils and it fits. the ring is a small sliver, it will be near full compression.
I'm Van, the weird kid with a box
Triggered as fuck and ready to gun you down
#NoBarrelTapsNoMercy
#GoFastGoFurious
"Stone Cold Operator of Death" -Clownie
#24
Posted 25 June 2016 - 08:23 PM
You cut down to 13 coils and it fits. the ring is a small sliver, it will be near full compression.
A [k26] to 13 coils isn't even close to the length of the original spring. is this alright?
#25
Posted 25 June 2016 - 08:51 PM
A [k26] to 13 coils isn't even close to the length of the original spring. is this alright?
It will still be strong I'm not sure on the math but it's still the same lb rating.
Edited by The2ndBluesBro, 25 June 2016 - 08:52 PM.
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