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Blazin Bow power mod/AR removal/barrel mod

enables you to shoot standard dart ammo like lasers

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#1 ravetrooper

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Posted 06 November 2014 - 07:09 AM

To start off, this is my first write up so let me know if there is anything I can do better for next time. Of course feel free to ask any questions about the modification and let me know if there are any better ones you know of (I'm sure there are, this one was relatively simple and only took me about 15 minutes.) I did do a quick search in the Modifications Directory and didn't see anything listed for this blaster so I figured I would post what I did to mine and see if I can get it in there.

These three simple mods will turn the somewhat dissapointing Blazin Bow into something much more worthy of its name. Not only will the "arrows" fly farther, but you will be able to load standard darts of all kinds and shoot them like lasers!

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Materials needed:
-one 2 in section of 1/2 in cpvc

Tools needed:
-screwdriver
-electrical tape
-wire cutters and/or x-acto blade
-something to cut the cpvc (I used a hacksaw)

Step 1- Disassembly/ AR removal

Start by removing all the screws (there are 14 total.)
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there's a tricky one hiding by one of the arrow clips so don't forget it.
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Next, remove the top half of the shell. The orange bow arms help tremendously. Just wiggle them back and forth and the shell should separate very easily.
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Remove the internals. Nothing is screwed in so just lift the assembly straight out.
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pull off the plunger tube and barrel
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the air restrictor is located inside the barrel. It is not glued in or anything. Removing it is as easy as reaching in and pulling it out
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You should be left with these four pieces. Get rid of them.
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Step 2- increase air seal/ barrel mod

Next you will want to wrap one thin ring of electrical tape around each hole on the barrel (adding any more will keep the arrows from sliding back on.)
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also cover that horrible, gaping hole in the plunger tube while you're at it.
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Before going any further, be sure and cut out the three ridges inside the front of the barrel (I used small wire cutters) and trim them down so that it is relatively smooth inside. DO NOT SAND THE INSIDE OF THE BARREL! Having some rough edges will add more friction and hold the new cpvc barrel in place.
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Next take your cpvc and push it all the way down into the barrel. It should be very snug, but if it won't go in at all just shave the orange ridges a little bit more.
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seal off the rim with another ring of e-tape
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Step 3- extra spring power

you may have noticed tnat the spring in this blaster has quite a bit of wiggle room, we're going to fix that and then some!

First locate and remove the single screw connecting the handle to the plunger rod.
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pull off the spring and carefully stretch it out an extra 1.5 in - 2 in
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Now reassemble, taking care that the little white "catch" piece fits into the shell correctly.
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All done! You can now shoot both the stock "arrows" or load in almost any other nerf dart ammo and/or stefans. I've tested it with a bunch and so far tagger darts work best. It's been too windy to get accurate outdoor ranges. However, it is flying straight across my basement, into the next room, and hitting the middle of the back wall. That's shooting flat at about 50 ft away, so I could imagine this getting almost 60 ft flat if there weren't any walls in the way.
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NOTE: It does take some practice to be able to shoot straight with this thing. I've found that aiming first, putting enough tension on the priming handle so that the blaster handle can rest up against my slightly open hand, then pulling back and letting the priming handle slip out of my fingers right as it reaches its full draw helps keep it well balanced. Once again, let me know if you have any ideas to improve my write up or this mod.
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Gut the electronics, drill a hole in the shell, and attach a crank to the gear. Bam, crank-action stampede that doesn't require batteries, or even a trigger.

...(also judging by your past posts, I would consider you pretty dang wise elder like in the modding community :lol: )


#2 Draconis

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Posted 06 November 2014 - 02:14 PM

Pretty good writeup. We don't generally recommend stretching springs, partially because the effect is temporary, and partially because it actually makes the spring weaker after it returns to normal length. Welcome aboard!
  • 0
[15:51] <+Noodle> titties
[15:51] <+Rhadamanthys> titties
[15:51] <+jakejagan> titties
[15:51] <+Lucian> boobs
[15:51] <+Gears> titties
[15:51] <@Draconis> Titties.
[15:52] <+Noodle> why is this so hard?

#3 ravetrooper

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Posted 07 November 2014 - 08:38 AM

Pretty good writeup. We don't generally recommend stretching springs, partially because the effect is temporary, and partially because it actually makes the spring weaker after it returns to normal length. Welcome aboard!


Thanks! that is good to know! Noob mistake I guess. I'll see if I can find another way to compress the spring more and then edit the writeup accordingly. Maybe adding a section of pvc in front of the "catch" or wrapping something like thick speaker wire around the priming handel...
  • 0

Gut the electronics, drill a hole in the shell, and attach a crank to the gear. Bam, crank-action stampede that doesn't require batteries, or even a trigger.

...(also judging by your past posts, I would consider you pretty dang wise elder like in the modding community :lol: )


#4 Draconis

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Posted 07 November 2014 - 01:43 PM

Most of the time we just replace the spring. I was meaning to modify one of my Blazers soon, so I will try out a couple springs that I have.

Edited by Draconis, 07 November 2014 - 01:43 PM.

  • 0
[15:51] <+Noodle> titties
[15:51] <+Rhadamanthys> titties
[15:51] <+jakejagan> titties
[15:51] <+Lucian> boobs
[15:51] <+Gears> titties
[15:51] <@Draconis> Titties.
[15:52] <+Noodle> why is this so hard?


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