Stryfe Motor Replacement Disappointment
Posted 20 September 2014 - 11:58 PM
Anyways, about a month ago I was inspired to buy and mod a stryfe. I have some modding experience with spring blasters, but this was my first flywheel attempt.
Among other mods, I replaced the motors with the RM2's from Solarbotics (These) and found very little gain in terms of dart distance. I was wondering if I did something wrong, or if my motors are bad, or if the gains are only really significant if you have higher voltage.
I have listed the mods and included some media so if there is any troubleshooting needed maybe they can help you out. They may be unnecessary, but better safe then sorry.
Finally, if everything is fine, what would be the next step to upgrading this blaster considering the mods I have already done?
Dart Lock, Trigger Lock, and Magazine Lock Removed
Thermistor, Jam Door Lock, Magazine Lock (Electrical), and Motor Resistors Removed
Trigger Mod (Remove piece of trigger to be able to pull the trigger all the way without activating the rev trigger)
Trigger Mech Lubed
Electrical Tape Added to Flywheels (1 layer)
Note: I'm running on 4 Duracell Quantum Batteries (I believe they are standard alkalines)
Wiring: White wire goes from battery pack to rev trigger, blue continues and then is soldered to the red which continues to motors, then the black comes back to the battery pack to complete the circuit.
Picture of the motor wiring
Side view of the motors and coated flywheels.
Another image of the coated flywheels.
Video of the flywheels running. (The weird directional vibrations is from the flywheels being unbalanced because of the electrical tape)
One last thing is that I have the burning "motors running" smell even though I am running stock voltage.
Anyways, thanks for your guys help in advance, and I hope onced this is solved it can help someone else.
Posted 21 September 2014 - 12:58 AM
Second, RM2's. They suck. Yes, they're nominally better than stock. But their failure rate vs. performance gain is abysmal.
Third, stock voltage. Yeah, you aren't getting anything with that. Battery tabs? High resistance. Standard batteries? Low amperage and discharge rate. Think of it like this- you just installed a 1 ft diameter hose on your garden spigot. You turn the tap on halfway, and wonder why the pipe is dribbling out the end. You need more water flow rate (amps) from the spigot (battery) to provide for the new pipe (motors.) Without the flow rate (amps) the water pressure (volts) don't matter much. You're asking the water to come out at 200 psi, but only two drops per minute. (High voltage low amperage means the motors ask for a lot of amps, don't get it, and so massively underperform.)
Posted 21 September 2014 - 07:54 PM
Remove the electrical tape therfore is a number of things you can use:
Duplicolor Truck Bed Coating
plasti dip<- most people use this it is cheap but eventually wears off.
I also wonder if just lightly sanding them with 1000-2000 grit sandpaper to get the smooth sheen off the flywheels would be enough.
IF you absolutely need to use AA shaped sized batteries that you can get in a place like wal-mart your stuck using NiMh or lithium primaries.
With rm2 you cant go much above stock 6 volts with proper current or you will fry them unless you c-mod them.
Best:Highest discharge Reasonably safe. Most expensive you will be looking at 10-40$ for the battery and 20-300$ for a charger.
4.2v rc lipo pack look for tenergy or a well made pack
7.2-11.1v rc race pack tenergy is a good brand you need a balance charger
Acceptable: less expensive than rc pack more expensive than nimh 10-15 for a pair of imr and 15-20 for a nitecore d4 charger. Use 1 or 2 in parallel unless you c-mod the rm2 using 2 in series is the most you should try 2 in series is 8.4v fresh off the charger 7.4v is what they will drop to then when dead 6.2v If you continue to run them down you will damage the cells and end up with batteries that wont take a charge.
14500 size lithium batteries li-Mn or Li-Fe-po4 High current they are available up to 20A discharge rates these chemistry are much much safer than Li-ion Li-Fe being the safest of the 2...
14500 Efest IMR Li-Mn 3.7v
14500 AW imr Li-Mn 3.7v
14500 Tenergy Li-Fe-Po4 3.3v
Bad: the cheapest about 10$ gets you 4 batteries and a charger. Nimh deliver about 1-2A in bursts but don't have the capacity to sustain much more than that. Lithium primaries can do 3 A continuous or 5A burst.
AA NiMH batteries 1.2v batteries
Lithium primary energizer or photo cells AA
worst:4-6 dollars a pop for 4 low current discharge
AA duracell rayovac energizer doesn't matter what they add to the end of it they all suck 500mA draw is the best they can muster.
*****Fire Li-ion unprotected cells (your asking for a fire or a face full of lithium hydroxide)
goes by many names: Trustfire and ultrafire are most common these are the typical cell most modders used at first they are good for about 2-5A draw and they are the most volatile they have been known to propel flashlights around the room like a rocket propelled on highly toxic gas that even a little bit can damage your lungs permanently.
Fix those 2 issues you should see about 110 FPS and around 70-90ft ranges. Some sort of voltage monitor would be advised to add to the setup with anything rechargeable draining them past a point will damage them.
Edited by Lunas, 22 September 2014 - 04:47 AM.
Posted 21 September 2014 - 08:07 PM
After a few dozen darts go through the wheels there will be a natural foam build-up that is perfect.
Any artificial coating will eventually wear off, in extreme cases wraps can shrapnel off and jam the flywheels.
Edited by Duke Wintermaul, 21 September 2014 - 11:19 PM.
Posted 18 April 2015 - 07:47 PM
Edit: is 8 months considered necroposting?
Edited by steve4835, 18 April 2015 - 10:49 PM.
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