8 replies to this topic

[BlackStar]

Im new to modding flywheel blasters and the only one I had on hand was the Rapidstrike CS-18. So I was following coop's guide (really detailed and nice) but while rewiring the flywheels, I took coops words that you dont need to be careful with the circuit board too seriously and ripped it off along with one of my motor leads. I searched what to do and all the answers said to replace the motors but i needed to finish putting back the blaster that day so i took the endbell off of a standard 130 motor and replaced the ruined one with it. I put it back together and hooked it up to an old 9.6 volts nicad pack I found and it was working beautifully but after a few minutes, I began to smell burning. Then I realized the replacement brush was probably only rated for around 3 volts. It still works at the moment but I decided I need replacement motors. I did look into RM2s but they probably cant handle the current the nicad supplied (lot more than fires) and they add up plus shipping. I was looking for motors on ebay and found these: http://www.ebay.com/...=item35d923719c
I would like to know all of your opinions on these motors and if they arent too great, im open to suggestion (given they arent very expensive, around the price range of these) .

[xXhunter47Xx]

Burning smell is normal. Don't fire continuously, and don't keep the motors revved for too long. The rev time is probably low since you over-volted it so you can afford to keep it off. Don't worry about it until something catches fire.

[BlackStar]

Burning smell is normal. Don't fire continuously, and don't keep the motors revved for too long. The rev time is probably low since you over-volted it so you can afford to keep it off. Don't worry about it until something catches fire.

Yes, it does rev up almost instantly. I just don't want to wait until my 40 dollar, foam spewing toy goes down in flames. I know the whole thing won't catch fire but I'd rather not burn out anything related to the pusher motor because I don't think I'm ready to rewire that complex junk.

[Azrael0987]

I highly suggest 180 motors. I've tried rm2's before, and 180's, and had a much better experience with 180's. The rm2's died out way quicker than they should have, seeing as I only had them running on 12 volts. The 180's lasted much much longer, but still eventually shook themselves apart. Coop currently uses blade 180's, and they seem great, although I havent personately tried them. I've only ever used the original ones coop was using. I've read the specs on the blades and what they claim makes them better than the originals. I just haven't invested in any yet.

[thechase]

I, like Azrael, would suggest 180 motors. Though my personal belief with RM2s is they will last for a good long time as long as you keep them at 5v - which is still plenty powerful; there is very little data supplied in the description of the motors you found on Ebay, so knowing how they would perform would be guess work until someone actually gives them a try!

These are the motors I use and they work astoundingly well on 2s and 3s Li-Pol and would recommend them highly; http://www.heliguy.c...earing-motor-B/

[BlackStar]

Thanks for all the suggestions, but im still new to modding and I've only done a few shell cuts (nite finder barrel replacement and a pathetic raider power stock that barely helps). I probably won't be able to make a clean cut as I don't have a dremel (all the tools I've got are a ton of screwdrivers, power drill, motorized hacksaw, a saw, and a soldering iron). Heck I don't even have sandpaper though I'll get some soon as I know it's cheap. Also, I'm stuck with my current battery, I've got a ton of rc helis but are their lipos are either messed up or weak plus, lipos and lions are dangerous and my wiring is crap (after toruk's words, didnt even consider buying fires). About the motors I chose, they had the highest rpm on ebay so I looked into them. I've seen something on Brit Nerf about a carbon brush mod. Could I just switch out rm2 brushes with bulk carbon brushes on ebay? I probably will if there is no other cost way of going about this.

Edited by BlackStar, 30 July 2014 - 11:18 AM.

[thechase]

I can appreciate not wanting to hack your blaster apart and ending up with a poor finish so if you want to avoid 180 size motors then that is understandable. Be aware, though, that they are the simple solution to getting high torque from your blaster and any standard size motor will struggle to match the performance whilst normally providing additional problems (high wear rate, noise, etc).

That being said I would pay little attention to the operational speed those motors are rated at, it is no secret that without very high inertia in the flywheels torque is the main factor in a good blaster motor, furthermore operational speed can always be increased on any motor (to a point) by simply adding additional voltage and being able to supply the current demands. I haven't seen this article on Britnerf - but better brushes would no doubt help the reliability, though I would still retain 9.6v is far too high for such a wound motor;

http://www.technobot...or-upgrade.html

At 5v they draw in nearly 5 amps as it is, with two motors at 5v you will be needing a constant drain of 10amps from your Ni-cad pack - which is certainly obtainable but a 9v I'm not so sure, you could also expect a lot of noise, heat, etc at these high voltages.

All in all, my humble suggestion would be buy buy RM2's swap the brushes if you wish and buy a 4.8v Ni-cad pack and rewire the whole blaster with high capacity wires. I'm sure you won't be at all disappointed with the results.

Other people swear by Tamiya motors - maybe someone will chime in here about them? Personally I don't have any experience with them to give any advice.

[BlackStar]

I have found that tamiya motors can handle much abuse (easily my nicd pack which supplies the current it wants). Does anyone know some cheap tamiyas that perform as well or better than rm2s? Looking to spend up to 15 usd total.

EDIT: I have found some tamiya mach dash motors for cheap and would like to know if i can run them at 6 volts with one of those slot in nicd packs.

Edited by BlackStar, 31 July 2014 - 06:18 PM.

[diedirk]

I found this on conrad.nl.
I think they fit but I don't now for sure i'havent order them yet .

1: Motraxx Tuning-motor X-Slot 10S Tuning stationair toerental26550 omw/min

2: Motraxx Elektromotor met 3-delig anker 12 V/DC stationair toerental 18000 omw/min


PS: please don't hate me for my bad english
i'm 13 years old and I'm dutch