Rapidstrike Questions
#1
Posted 05 September 2013 - 03:16 PM
In the rapidstrike, there is the pusher arm segment, which is an orange flat rectangle, that pushes a little white arm out and pushes the dart into the flywheels, the wires that run to the pusher arm have green resistors connecting to them. If I want a higher Rate of Fire, do I remove those resistors? Thanks
I noticed that when I hit the rev button on my rapidstrike, it revs, but when I pull the trigger to shoot, it gets louder? like the flywheels aren't going their full speed.
#2
Posted 05 September 2013 - 09:14 PM
Not sure what piece broke, but pictures would help.Well I am modding my rapidstrike right now, and I had a few questions. I have another seperate question which isn't related to this but you can check my profile for that one. Basically, above the trigger there is the redundant trigger, (wise words from Coop772), and the redundant trigger pushes against a little button/switch thing. That part broke, The little button/switch that is under the cirucit board that the redundant trigger pushes up agaisnt. Where can I find one? Please help!!!
Yes, and also remove the resistors on the flywheel motors.In the rapidstrike, there is the pusher arm segment, which is an orange flat rectangle, that pushes a little white arm out and pushes the dart into the flywheels, the wires that run to the pusher arm have green resistors connecting to them. If I want a higher Rate of Fire, do I remove those resistors? Thanks
I believe this is normal.I noticed that when I hit the rev button on my rapidstrike, it revs, but when I pull the trigger to shoot, it gets louder? like the flywheels aren't going their full speed.
#3
Posted 06 September 2013 - 12:14 AM
http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/
#4
Posted 06 September 2013 - 06:11 AM
#5
Posted 06 September 2013 - 09:28 AM
Without that switch, then the pusher may not necessarily dock.
When the pusher is out, the switch is activated, and when docked inactivated.
And those 2 diodes and all the wiring is something to do with docking the puhger when the trigger is released.
I used the jam-door switch to replace mine which also broke. But then you need to do some rewiring since that switch is SPDT and the original switch is DPDT.
For electronic components, each motor has 3 chip capacitors (I guess 100nF), 1 thermistor for the pusher motor mounted on the board just behind the trigger, and one thermistor for the fly wheels motors mounted on the fly wheel board.
There are 2 diodes, 1N4001, on the circuit board below the pusher. And finally six low low values resistors like 0.56 Ohms, two per motor.
On another forum, they say the resistors are inductors, but they look very much like 1Watt Resistors.
#6
Posted 06 September 2013 - 03:49 PM
Now when I lift that ciruit board up, you see the broken trigger/button. I want to keep this because of smooth cycling. And also, the switch for the jam door is a 3 point one, so that will NOT do. I could fit in the holes, but there is an orange peg that lines up with the circuit board, and it won't work.
file:///C:/Users/John/Desktop/pic%201%20ahf%3Blkdasf.jpg
#7
Posted 06 September 2013 - 08:03 PM
http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/
#8
Posted 07 September 2013 - 08:42 AM
#9
Posted 07 September 2013 - 11:00 AM
[img]http://imageshack.com/a/img826/4241/7bat.jpg[/img]
Which gives you this:
#10
Posted 07 September 2013 - 01:52 PM
Those are inductors, they exist to smooth out AC ripple. They serve no purpose in our circuit, as we don't care what kind of noise the motors can introduce in an electrical signal, as we have one.On another forum, they say the resistors are inductors, but they look very much like 1Watt Resistors.
http://nerfscience.blogspot.com/
#11
Posted 07 September 2013 - 08:52 PM
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