10 replies to this topic

[makeitgo]

Here's an interesting find that I haven't come across on any of the forums. Normally when people use 1 1/4" PVC for their plunger tubes, they use a 1" to 3/4" reducing bushing and e-tape/packaging tape to create the barrel coupling end.Here's an alternative that doesn't need tape at all, using a 1" CPVC coupler.The 1" CPVC coupler can be cut down to just before the internal lip. The 3/4" to 1/2" PVC bushing is actually pretty loose inside the CPVC coupler but the internal lip of the CPVC coupler is just wide enough for the PVC bushing to have a very tight fit. I lined it up so the lip catches on the bottom part of the PVC bushing as opposed to the other way around to eliminate dead space and because it centres itself better that way.The really cool part is that the 1" CPVC coupler is a perfect snug push fit into 1 1/4" PVC/ABS. No Tape and perfectly centred. All this, of course, is Gooped and glued into place. From here, mechanical fastening as per usual....Here's some other things I do.I always ream out my 3/4" to 1/2" coupler to create wider air flow and I use a Zip Tie inserted 'edgewise' as my dart stop....and a short clip showing an example of the above.http://s1166.beta.ph...2EC1FC.mp4.html

Edited by makeitgo, 05 December 2012 - 06:56 PM.

[Kansas City 1706]

Interesting... I just happen to have some 1" cpvc laying around my house. Although the stuff I have is more of a pinkish-orangeish color that is labeled to be used as sprinkler pipe. But once again mig you are constantly amazing me.

-KC1706

Edited by Kansas City 1706, 05 December 2012 - 06:55 PM.

[Zorns Lemma]

Nice find! For some people though, it may be that the 1" CPVC coupler will not fit in 1-1/4" PVC for some people however: you are still depending on arbitrary outer diameter tolerances, which is even worse on fittings.

So I guess depending on where you live and the hardware stores nearby, we now have quite a few ways to reduce 1-1/4" PVC to 1/2"
1) 1"x1/2" PVC bushing
2) 3/4" PVC coupler (some 3/4" fittings have larger OD than 1" PVC) + 3/4"x1/2" PVC bushing
3) 1" CPVC coupler + 3/4"x1/2" PVC bushing

The first one depends only on the ID of the 1-1/4" pipe on hand, the next 2 depend on the OD of the bushing and ID of the pipe.

ABS pipe might also have consistently different wall thickness than PVC pipe as well, as the schedule rating only specifies a minimum wall thickness.

[Kansas City 1706]

And yes the 1 1/4" pvc from Lowes does work with the 1" cpvc fittings. Thanks MiG for finding this. I am currently making my own version of an AABow using a 1" cpvc tee. Another thing is that with just a little e-tape a 1/2" pvc coupler fits perfectly into the 1" cpvc tee/coupler, and so does a 3/4" cpvc endcap. Thus, I can easily attach the bow arms and with a little dremel work I can get to the 1/2" pvc coupler to add whatever barrel system I choose.

-KC1706

Edited by Kansas City 1706, 11 February 2013 - 08:54 PM.

[dskippy]

Does anyone use these?

http://www.pexsupply...-Socket-Bushing

I order one for a 1-1/4" plunger tube gun I'm in the process of making and I'm wondering if this connecter makeitgo has created has any advantages I should know about.

-mike

[DartSlinger]

Does anyone use these?

http://www.pexsupply...-Socket-Bushing

I order one for a 1-1/4" plunger tube gun I'm in the process of making and I'm wondering if this connecter (sic) makeitgo has created has any advantages I should know about.

I have not heard of people using those. Makeitgo's method doesn't really have any advantages, except that you don't have to wrap the reducer in tape. It's decidedly more expensive than the most common method of ending your 1.25" PVC plunger tube, which is a 1" x 1/2" reducer wrapped in smooth packing tape and gooped and screwed into your plunger tube. The method just named makes less dead space than the version you are suggesting.

[Carbon]

I have not heard of people using those.

Ahem.

Advantages: easier to disassemble, no tape required, can be held on with screws.
Disadvantages: slightly greater dead space, a slightly greater chance of the front bushing assembly flying off the front of the blaster.

I hate using tape and adhesives and prefer simple assembly, so I've always built this way (as opposed to the now standard 1" bushing).

[Ryan201821]

I have not heard of people using those. Makeitgo's method doesn't really have any advantages, except that you don't have to wrap the reducer in tape.

An advantage that you've ignored with makeitgo's method, is that it's flush with the tube, so you can have stuff slide over your plunger tube if you need to.

And if you haven't seen anyone using a 1 1/4" x 1/2" reducing bushing you don't read too many topics here I guess.

[DartSlinger]

An advantage that you've ignored with makeitgo's method, is that it's flush with the tube, so you can have stuff slide over your plunger tube if you need to.

The lip on a 1"x ½" PVC reducer can be ground down with a dremel to enable sheaths to slide over it.


Do not misunderstand. I am in no way belittling Makitgo's find. I am merely saying that the 1"x ½" reducer is more expedient for several reasons.

• It is more widely available: the 1" CPVC coupler is scarce at smaller hardware stores.
• It is less expensive. The combined cost of the 1"CPVC coupler and the ¾" x ½" PVC reducer is more than the 1"x ½" PVC reducer. (The cost of a dab of goop and a few inches of tape is negligible.)
• It requires less work.

And if you haven't seen anyone using a 1 1/4" x 1/2" reducing bushing you don't read too many topics here I guess.

I have read quite a few topics. I just don't note every inconsequential detail. I rather, try to figure out what is going inside the blaster.

Edited by DartSlinger, 21 February 2013 - 04:17 PM.

[Zorns Lemma]

lip on a 1"x ½" PVC reducer can be ground down with a dremel

the 1"x ½" reducer is more expedient for several reasons

• It requires less work.

Anything that requires a dremel is by default awful

(Also you seem to be confusing the discussion on using a 1-1/4"x1/2" bushing + coupler, and what you're talking about with the 1"x1/2")

Edited by Zorn's Lemma, 21 February 2013 - 06:12 PM.

[Ryan201821]

stuff

I'm not knocking the 1" x 1/2" reducing bushing, as that is usually always what I use for this. Instead of grinding down the lip, you can often just hammer it straight into the 1 1/4" you're fitting it in. I still use tape to make sure it seals because the lip doesn't always seal perfectly with the 1 1/4".

I also have to disagree that it's easier to find, I mean I assume it is for you. I've only seen the round-style bushing from Home Depot, and they don't carry them sometimes, or at certain stores. I do notice they have the round-style ones on their website, but I'm not sure they'd just swap it out for a hex one if they didn't carry the round ones.

I've seen 1" CPVC couplers at Menard's (probably not by you), several Ace's, and all Lowes that I have been to. Again, I guess it just depends on what you can find locally and what stores are close to you.

I also fail to see how it takes more time to do. You throw in the reducer in the 1" coupler, and just hammer it straight into the plunger tube. Last time I checked that is easier to do than getting it to seal perfectly with tape.

I hate using tape and adhesives and prefer simple assembly, so I've always built this way (as opposed to the now standard 1" bushing).

Strongly agree with Carbon here. That is one huge advantage. Assuming you find the magical sized 1" CPVC coupler, makeitgo's method is much easier and faster to get your bushing to seal perfectly.

Sure, it's like a $1 more expensive, but I'll always spend extra money to save time and dicks in my mouth.