Posted 28 August 2012 - 05:21 PM
Posted 28 August 2012 - 06:14 PM
Posted 28 August 2012 - 08:58 PM
Kruger and Dunning (1999)
Posted 28 August 2012 - 11:02 PM
I understand that most people don't really care about that, just throwing it out there for anyone that is interested in that. Putting less weight on might make them a little more slug like. Most of the 3" darts I made weighed 2.3 grams or more, which seems a little extreme. Most people looking at new homemade darts want them to perform like slugs so pushing the weight forward and lowering the amount of weight helps move accuracy more towards that of a slug dart, as well as making the weight a little more like slugs. Doing both of these things would probably allow you to lower the size of the dart, as well as lower the width of the tape covering the weight. This would increase the hopperability of the darts, as they would be shorter, and have a shorter taped section(the tape tends to be more rigid than foam), which again moves them towards being a little bit more like slugs while still maintaining their safe approvable status.
I believe the quest for metal free darts is one more with safety and approvability than pain.
Posted 29 August 2012 - 08:50 AM
I may be making a hopper tonight or tomorrow depending on time I'll take some pics and make a post.
Can you post a picture of exactly what you mean, I think I understand what you are talking about as far as cutting the backside of a 45 degree conduit fitting and attaching the air source of your gun to the cut or hole in the 45 degree conduit, but I don't quite get what you mean by the placement eliminating double feeding.
I found that double feeding seems to occur more the farther out of the bend that the dart picks up the "breach" of your barrel sized portion of tubing. If the breach is to far into the curve it tends to jam more as the dart does not properly seat in the barrel barrel. With the 45 degree conduit after a slight ream you can easily insert your 1/2 CPVC. The breach end of the CVPC needs to be reamed out to allow the darts in the hopper to slide into the barrel. How far back you push this barrel into your bend gives you some adjustment for double feeding and I imagine could be tweaked for a larger dart. You then have to slot the back side of the bend for your air inlet. A dremel tool hot glue and a small length of 1/2 pvc and some e-tape works good to bridge the gap between blaster and hopper.
The only post I have seen that also uses 45 conduit drills all the way through the bend and you slide in a piece of CPVC with a breach cut into it. This would be far simpler to do, but I like my slotted inlet, it ensures no vacumming issues and it keeps the curve intact to ensure proper dart delivery to the breach which is why I could see this working for longer darts using a bigger diameter curve.
Posted 27 December 2012 - 02:47 PM
But i dont want to hurt people when i hit them from close range.
Would these darts be good for my tripleshot?
150 feet modded streamlines sorry.
Edited by assault sem, 06 January 2013 - 03:59 PM.
Posted 27 December 2012 - 04:35 PM
i have a tripleshot that shoots darts up to 175 feet (stock streamlines).
but i dont want to hurt people when i hit them from close range.
would these darts be good for my tripleshot?
There are so many things that need to be said about this post.
First: you have two shift buttons. Use them.
Second: The last post on this thread was in August. Don't necro a thread if you don't have something significant to add. For questions, use a PM.
Third: to address the content of your post, I sincerely doubt that putty wrap darts would work for your triple shot, because it's imaginary. 175' (with streamlines, no less) reeks of bullshit.
Fourth: if your blaster has somehow evaded the laws of physics and does actually exist, no darts will make it safe at close range. Do not use it to shoot at people, especially at close range.
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