Jump to content


Photo

Putty-wrap darts

Safe darts you can make in the car ride to the war

31 replies to this topic

#26 Elmo1234

Elmo1234

    Member

  • Members
  • 36 posts
  • Location:California
  • Country:United States

Posted 28 August 2012 - 05:21 PM

Instead of making darts 2inches in length, make them 2.25 inches in length.
  • 0

#27 BK201

BK201

    Member

  • Members
  • 27 posts
  • Location:Easthampton
  • State:Massachusetts
  • Country:United States

Posted 28 August 2012 - 06:14 PM

If you move the weight further forward, theoretically you would increase accuracy, but the further forward you move the weight the more the dart will hurt. So you can alter your own darts to find the fine balance of accuracy versus pain that you desire. Also if you put less weight closer to the front of the dart, aiming for a dart more in the 1-1.25 gram range you will be able to achieve a step up in accuracy without having the darts hurt too too much.
  • 0

#28 Zorns Lemma

Zorns Lemma

    Sir Scrt

  • Moderators
  • 1,277 posts
  • Location:Dulles International Airport
  • State:Virginia
  • Country:United States

Posted 28 August 2012 - 08:58 PM

I believe the quest for metal free darts is one more with safety and approvability than pain.
  • 0
"In short, the same knowledge that underlies the ability to produce correct judgement is also the knowledge that underlies the ability to recognize correct judgement. To lack the former is to be deficient in the latter."
Kruger and Dunning (1999)

#29 BK201

BK201

    Member

  • Members
  • 27 posts
  • Location:Easthampton
  • State:Massachusetts
  • Country:United States

Posted 28 August 2012 - 11:02 PM

I believe the quest for metal free darts is one more with safety and approvability than pain.

I understand that most people don't really care about that, just throwing it out there for anyone that is interested in that. Putting less weight on might make them a little more slug like. Most of the 3" darts I made weighed 2.3 grams or more, which seems a little extreme. Most people looking at new homemade darts want them to perform like slugs so pushing the weight forward and lowering the amount of weight helps move accuracy more towards that of a slug dart, as well as making the weight a little more like slugs. Doing both of these things would probably allow you to lower the size of the dart, as well as lower the width of the tape covering the weight. This would increase the hopperability of the darts, as they would be shorter, and have a shorter taped section(the tape tends to be more rigid than foam), which again moves them towards being a little bit more like slugs while still maintaining their safe approvable status.
  • 0

#30 ferball

ferball

    Member

  • Members
  • 33 posts

Posted 29 August 2012 - 08:50 AM

Can you post a picture of exactly what you mean, I think I understand what you are talking about as far as cutting the backside of a 45 degree conduit fitting and attaching the air source of your gun to the cut or hole in the 45 degree conduit, but I don't quite get what you mean by the placement eliminating double feeding.

I may be making a hopper tonight or tomorrow depending on time I'll take some pics and make a post.

I found that double feeding seems to occur more the farther out of the bend that the dart picks up the "breach" of your barrel sized portion of tubing. If the breach is to far into the curve it tends to jam more as the dart does not properly seat in the barrel barrel. With the 45 degree conduit after a slight ream you can easily insert your 1/2 CPVC. The breach end of the CVPC needs to be reamed out to allow the darts in the hopper to slide into the barrel. How far back you push this barrel into your bend gives you some adjustment for double feeding and I imagine could be tweaked for a larger dart. You then have to slot the back side of the bend for your air inlet. A dremel tool hot glue and a small length of 1/2 pvc and some e-tape works good to bridge the gap between blaster and hopper.

The only post I have seen that also uses 45 conduit drills all the way through the bend and you slide in a piece of CPVC with a breach cut into it. This would be far simpler to do, but I like my slotted inlet, it ensures no vacumming issues and it keeps the curve intact to ensure proper dart delivery to the breach which is why I could see this working for longer darts using a bigger diameter curve.
  • 0

#31 assault sem

assault sem

    Member

  • Members
  • 3 posts
  • Country:Netherlands

Posted 27 December 2012 - 02:47 PM

I have a tripleshot that shoots darts up to 175 feet (stock streamlines).
But i dont want to hurt people when i hit them from close range.
Would these darts be good for my tripleshot?

EDIT

150 feet modded streamlines sorry.

Edited by assault sem, 06 January 2013 - 03:59 PM.

  • 0

#32 Carbon

Carbon

    Contriberator

  • Moderators
  • 1,893 posts
  • Location:Milwaukee, WI
  • State:Wisconsin
  • Country:United States

Posted 27 December 2012 - 04:35 PM

i have a tripleshot that shoots darts up to 175 feet (stock streamlines).
but i dont want to hurt people when i hit them from close range.
would these darts be good for my tripleshot?


There are so many things that need to be said about this post.

First: you have two shift buttons. Use them.

Second: The last post on this thread was in August. Don't necro a thread if you don't have something significant to add. For questions, use a PM.

Third: to address the content of your post, I sincerely doubt that putty wrap darts would work for your triple shot, because it's imaginary. 175' (with streamlines, no less) reeks of bullshit.

Fourth: if your blaster has somehow evaded the laws of physics and does actually exist, no darts will make it safe at close range. Do not use it to shoot at people, especially at close range.
  • 0
Hello. I am Indigo of the Rainbow Clan. You Nerfed my father. Prepare to die.


0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users