603 replies to this topic

[supercellghost]

I was looking for some foam that would work great in a springer and fit in Modman PETG. Does anyone have any suggestions?

[SchizophrenicMC]

I was looking for some foam that would work great in a springer and fit in Modman PETG. Does anyone have any suggestions?

5/8 or 1/2 inch FBR, like the rest of us use?

[supercellghost]

I was looking for some foam that would work great in a springer and fit in Modman PETG. Does anyone have any suggestions?

5/8 or 1/2 inch FBR, like the rest of us use?

Yes I know that, I was looking for a brand of foam.

[Salmon]

I was looking for some foam that would work great in a springer and fit in Modman PETG. Does anyone have any suggestions?

5/8 or 1/2 inch FBR, like the rest of us use?

Yes I know that, I was looking for a brand of foam.

Well, assuming that Mod Man PETG is more or less the same as OMC's PETG (which I am 90 percent sure it is), the black foam from Best Materials should work very well for a springer. For an air gun, you should use 9/16 or 19/32 brass with Best Materials foam.

Edited by Salmon, 22 February 2009 - 10:19 AM.

[SchizophrenicMC]

I think I'm using 3M... I'm not sure because I threw away the wrapper, but I believe it is.

[Icespartan 1114]

Well I just went to Ace and I found these while I was there.


There mini hotglue domes. They are perfect for making darts. When I use them I just do everything as usual burn a hole, add hot glue then drop weight. Then I put one of these bad boys on there and it make a perfect dome. They fly straight and far which is obviously good.

Here is a picture of a dart I made with one. Is it sorta hard to see though.

Edited by Icespartan_1114, 23 March 2009 - 05:32 PM.

[MOD FREAK]

Well I just went to Ace and I found these while I was there.

Could You Post The Packaging?

Also..How much Were They? How many Did It Come With?

[Draconis]

Those are usually used as feet for things like coasters. Some are vinyl, some are silicone, all are relatively expensive. Like $4 for a sheet of 16. I would not trust their self adhesive, either. If you do use these little nubs, then make sure to attach them with hot glue still.

Edited by Draconis, 06 April 2009 - 01:40 PM.

[ELI M]

Well I just went to Ace and I found these while I was there.


There mini hotglue domes. They are perfect for making darts. When I use them I just do everything as usual burn a hole, add hot glue then drop weight. Then I put one of these bad boys on there and it make a perfect dome. They fly straight and far which is obviously good.

Here is a picture of a dart I made with one. Is it sorta hard to see though.

Where did you get those?

[KingofWinning]

Well I just went to Ace and I found these while I was there.


There mini hotglue domes. They are perfect for making darts. When I use them I just do everything as usual burn a hole, add hot glue then drop weight. Then I put one of these bad boys on there and it make a perfect dome. They fly straight and far which is obviously good.

Here is a picture of a dart I made with one. Is it sorta hard to see though.

Where did you get those?

Well if you look up at what I have bolded for you, you'll see he said he got them at Ace Hardware. Try reading more.

[Ice Nine]

Zorn and I have been making a decent amount of darts in preparation for Chano. We originally were making darts with the Slug method, but Liquid Nails proved to not be durable enough. I could've just have gotten the wrong type. Rather than resort to hot glue, which is expensive and annoying, here's what we got:



That adhesives tube is incredibly cheap; it was under two dollars. We squeeze a bit onto a plastic bag or cardboard, dip the blank in, and press the washer head down on top. If any leaks over we used ripped stock darts or bad blanks to sop up the mess.

The darts made by this method work very well and are much more solid than ours with Liquid Nails adhering them.

<<Admin edit: Please remove "death darts" from the batch of stefans before photographing it. Darts with any sort of harmful tip will only cause trouble around here, as well as wars.>>

Apologies to the admin who edited that. It was completely a joke.

We sit them on a cool windowsill for a bit as the adhesive dries better cold and then we put them on a big piece of cardboard and let them sit overnight.

Edited by Ice Nine, 06 April 2009 - 09:48 AM.

[diamondbacknf1626]

*Pics*

Where did you get those?

Well if you look up at what I have bolded for you, you'll see he said he got them at Ace Hardware. Try reading more.

No need to quote the pics over and over. You can also get them at home depot in the same section as you can get a different, harder style felt tip. They're not as...um...fluffy? as the ones from McMaster. I very much prefer these. Like I said, the hard felt tips and the "hotglue domes" are on the same pegboard in Home Depot.

My only recomendation against using the hot-glue dome-like things in place of felt tips with washer stefans is that unless done really well, they'll break easily, just because they don't fit as flat to the dart as the felt tips do, and if they hit something wrong, the head will start to come off.

[Daniel Beaver]

Does anyone have any tips for working with liquid nails? I've been trying a few methods, and have resorted to just using my fingers to slather it on. Ideally, I would like to squeeze out a bead of it onto the top of the dart.

On a side note, I'm not sure why so many people have durability problems with liquid nails. My Slug/CS/felt darts hold up much better with liquid nails than with hot glue. I wonder if the type of foam you use makes a difference? I'm using the mile-high.

[Muttonchops]

Beaver;

For Liquid nails, both the caulk-gun and regular squeeze tubes let you control how much comes out and can be cut to preference, so I don't see what is causing the problem. If more control is needed, two options include hookah condoms and plastic bags.
Hookah condoms are useful because they are made of hard plastic and fit directly over the nozzle of the applicator and will give you a small delivery. If you dont have the resources to get them, a plastic sandwich bag works well. Just snip off a corner, throw it over and applicator and POOF, you have something with a lot more precision then you would have otherwise.

-Deamonn

[Daniel Beaver]

Thanks Muttonchops, plastic sandwich bags work very well.

[the stefan store]

hello everyone! I'm not sure if anyone said this, probally out of common sence that you know this but i find that if you have acess to a very sharp razerblade that it does'nt pinch the ends of the stefan when making it, thus making it fly straighter. That's about all I can contribute to this thread, very helpful thread.

[Francesca]

Well, I'm the official dart-smith for the clan that I am in. Our clan makes stefan darts, which are the ones with the hot glue dome. When you're making the dome, you shouldn't try to shape it and make it look good. It just has to be enough to entirely cover the weight. Gravity will make the dome look good. One more thing- don't let the glue gun get too hot. If it does, the glue itself will burn through the blank, and the hole for the weight will be too big/deep. I hope this helps!

[Merzlin]

I also hope to help:

When putting in a weight, make sure it's roomy. You need the hotglue to incase the weight, creating a full seal and you will never have flying weights again/for a long time. This eliminates the factor of getting shot with a 3/0 fishing weight; which hurts >.>.

Create a board or table to let your darts dry. Don't shake or pull on the darts, else it will alter the dome/composure that it had before. You want your darts be be as aerodynamic as possible, and hotglue seeping over a piece of foam is not a good example.

When creating a dome, the trick is gravity. You want to put a bead, or a perfect amount of hotglue to besure that the weight will never leave or puncture the hotglue. Let the dart sit, and gravity will naturally create a perfect dome. This is crucial when is comes to the dome part.

Making sure your weight is center is also a valid factor. If your weight is sticking out, good luck. It does not matter how the hole is placed more or less how the weight is placed.

Here are some examples of my darts:





I really hope this helped.

Edited by Merzlin, 26 April 2009 - 06:40 PM.

[spartan062]

I use a similar method to what Merzlin does. The only major difference is that instead of a table, I use a piece from a Maveric turret (from a failed CPVC barrel replacement).

[Shrub]

I'm wondering if you can get a rubber band put around all your blanks and use a disc sander to make all the blanks the exact same length. the same thing could be done easier (sort of) with cpvc the length you want your blanks to be and polycarb disk on the bottom to stop the blanks from coming out.

Edited by Longshot Wielder, 03 May 2009 - 12:47 PM.

[Zorns Lemma]

dick sander

Oh god no.

The rubber band method will fail, because a strong band will deform your blanks, while a weak one will allow them to slide, giving you non-flat ends and defeating the purpose.

If you're going to use the PVC setup, why not just put the foam in and cut it there?

[Shrub]

Well I let them stick out a little so they are a little in consistent.

[bobafan]

Anything involving high speed and darts other than themselves as a projectile will make them shred. A rubber band doesn't have enough force to hold them together, and something that does will smash the foam.

Edited by bobafan, 03 May 2009 - 02:31 PM.

[Shrub]

There also is the CPVC idea. Also I wouldn't say high speed only 1250RPM my dremel at top speed doesn't even shred foam unless I'm drilling into it. I figure I would be using 30 lengths of 1.5" CPVC and a large hole saw to cut the polycarb or I could cut a square with a saw.

Edited by Longshot Wielder, 03 May 2009 - 06:18 PM.

[EnigmaticRage]

This isn't really a tip: how long are the posts on unmodded guns to make stefans for them?