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Adhesive recommendation - Nerf plastic to epoxy putty


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#1 Ambience 327

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 01:50 PM

So I have a bit of a dilemma, and I am hoping someone can recommend a good, inexpensive adhesive, which might be available at a local hardware/home improvement/etc store.

So here's the deal. On the below blaster, I attached a CPVC endcap to the orange plunger tube endcap on the BBB with "Amazing Goop" and then covered that up with epoxy putty as you can see in the image below. I roughed up the plastic and the back of the endcap prior to gooping it on, but while showing it to my nephew, we managed to pull the thing right off the front. The orange endcap looks exactly like it did before I gooped the CPVC endcap on it - so nothing stuck.

What I am hoping is for a good, strong adhesive that I can buy locally (and cheaply) that will firmly stick the endcap/putty assembly back on there and hold it more securely. Anyone have any suggestions for something that will hold the putty to the plastic well?


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#2 evilbunnyo

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 01:57 PM

Superglue?
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#3 SomethingNerfey

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 02:35 PM

Superglue works for pretty much everything, even superglueing superglue to superglue.
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#4 Ambience 327

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 03:02 PM

I don't know if superglue would be strong enough for this application. It is basically two flat faces, and the forces being exerted on it (removing/inserting things into the CPVC endcap) would be putting lots of stress on that join.
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#5 flamincows

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 03:41 PM

I've used Guerrilla brand super glue for that exact application more than once and it has worked just fine. I recommend applying it in layers.
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#6 Funky Mutha Facko

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 03:53 PM

Use superglue or an epoxy designed for plastics. One way to get it to stick better would be to glue the cpvc end-cap into a 1/2 in pvc coupler or end-cap so the glue has more surface area to grip onto. Just cut the pvc down to the size of the cpvc end-cap. One other way I add surface area is to take a razor blade and cut many crossing grooves into both sides of where you plan to glue. Apply epoxy, press and hold together so that the glue gets into all the cuts.

The rounded corner of cpvc end-caps make them trickier to get to stick. You may want to get rid of the end cap all together and go with a half of a coupler. Hope this helps.
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#7 Bchamp22795

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 04:02 PM

Keep in mind, superglue is the only thing many use to adhere things in his longshot breeches. This goes from Aluminum indestructo bolt sleds and the orange nub to the brass (CPVC if you make a sodizzled breech). I've only used superglue, and as long as I sand the surfaces and apply pressure during curing, it holds up very strongly.
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#8 Ambience 327

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 04:03 PM

The kicker here is that the CPVC endcap is still firmly encased in the epoxy putty - I am trying to glue that whole assembly back on. I have had 2-part epoxy recommended by Darth Maker over on NRev, and plan to give that a try tonight.

Several people have suggested suplerglue, but I don't think it will work in this application - it is too brittle and I don't think it can take the kind of force that will be applied as CPVC barrels/RSCB's/etc are pulled out/banged around.

Edited by Ambience 327, 24 May 2012 - 04:04 PM.

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#9 Seprest

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 05:13 PM

I think that you underestimate the strength of super glue. Just make sure that you rough up the contact surfaces a bit, and apply light pressure while is drys. Also, make sure you are using a good brand, if you are really worried then go with gorilla glue. I used some for a project a while ago and it is almost overkill. I have used super glue on cpvc before (not for Nerf purposes), and it has held through much worse punishment than will hopefully happen to your blaster.
Also, you could try a different brand of epoxy.  Some of the longer curing stuff is quite permanent from what I unerstand.  I have seen some people use epoxy that does not dry very hard.  I once saw someone drop a Longshot with an underbarrel maverick that just snapped right off, he blamed it on using bad epoxy adhesive.  Goodluck with the Darth Marker epoxy.


Edited by Seprest, 24 May 2012 - 05:17 PM.

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#10 NerfNoob10

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 05:20 PM

SO, I'm just going based on my experience and not knowledge of how the adhesives work, but I have found that I use 4 different adhesives that cover anything you would ever need to do. First is super glue. I found that gorilla brand impact tough super glue will stick to most anything, and stick well. I have never had anything stuck together with superglue break on me. (granted I do sand the surfaces and clamp them when I super glue) The problem is it is just a liquid, so I only use it for securing two flat surfaces. Now for anything that is not totally flat and you may need to fill small gaps I use JB quick (weld). This is a powerful adhesive and it is thick, so for a strong bond between things that don't have two large flat surfaces this is great. Now for attaching tubing to an air tank I use a specific plastic epoxy rated to 3450 psi. You can probably use other things but the stuff I use works, so if it aint broke don't fix it. Finally if you need to attach two things just for cosmetics or at some point that won't have significant force applied to it, I just use hot glue because its cheap. I also used epoxy putty but I don't count that as an adhesive since I only use it to make something like a support or mold, but not to strictly adhere two things together.

So Im not 100% sure as to what the two pieces your attaching look like as you don't have a picture of them separated, but from what I can see I would sand both surfaces and super glue them. Since a clamp probably won't fit just push tightly for about a minute. Let that dry over night, then cover the joint and about half an inch on either side it in JB quick, just to be extra safe since it broke once.
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#11 Zorns Lemma

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 05:37 PM

Super glue isn't going to work. It has very low shear strength which means it will not resist twisting or angling along the joint.

I would second the recommendation of epoxy glue, especially the low strength fast setting (e.g. Loctite plastic epoxy) kind. High strength epoxy resin (e.g. JB Weld) ends up being really brittle, and you would benefit a lot more from a small level of flexibility at the joint.
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#12 soloz1

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 05:53 PM

5 minute Epoxy seems to work really well for me. I can't twist off my PAS's coupler so...
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#13 NerfNoob10

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 06:20 PM

Super glue isn't going to work. It has very low shear strength which means it will not resist twisting or angling along the joint.

I would second the recommendation of epoxy glue, especially the low strength fast setting (e.g. Loctite plastic epoxy) kind. High strength epoxy resin (e.g. JB Weld) ends up being really brittle, and you would benefit a lot more from a small level of flexibility at the joint.


This is really good to know, now that I think about it I have never actually used super glue on anything that is twisted or experiences torque so ignore my previous recommendation.
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#14 BMSCmods

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 08:41 PM

One reason the goop and epoxy might not stay is because of the original grease added to the gun messes up the adhesive in the glue when nerf makes it so you can just wash it in hot water and re-glue it and they also may not stay because when you first add the goop it has to cure in a room tempature room and must let that fully cure before applying the epoxy because it might result in the adhesives mixing making hard to cure properly

Edited by BMSCmods, 24 May 2012 - 08:43 PM.

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#15 chavez guy

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Posted 24 May 2012 - 09:25 PM

I would personally use superglue, but apparently it isn't the best option according to others on this thread.
Whichever one you use, but sure that you rough up the surfaces being glued with either sandpaper or a file. That will provide more surface area and stuff for the adhesive to grab onto.
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#16 Banshee

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 12:40 AM

I've had the exact same issue you're having. I fixed it by taking a few small screws and screwing them half way into the surface of the orange part around where the coupler will go, then I put the epoxy putty on. That gives the epoxy putty a 3 dimensional shape to mold around, and you will never get the coupler back off.
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#17 Daniel Beaver

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 06:10 AM

Zorn ended this thread, as far as in concerned. A standard epoxy is what your looking for - super glue doesn't have the shear strength for this application, and other adhesives are just not strong enough in general. Couplers experience a lot of stress, which is why they're such a common point of breakage.

Edited by Daniel Beaver, 25 May 2012 - 06:10 AM.

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#18 Ambience 327

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 09:49 AM

So a bit of Loctite 2-part, 5-min Epoxy seems to have done the trick. I am letting it cure for the full 24 hours before giving it a real torture test, but I think it is now solidly attached. If not, I will go with the CPVC stub and full coupler.

Thanks all for your input!


(If I do another BBB in the future, I will probably go the CPVC stub route - possibly with the screws and epoxy putty added for additional stability, but this looks like it is solid for now.)
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#19 ShaNayNay

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Posted 25 May 2012 - 01:10 PM

Didn't see that a resolution was reached, never mind.

Edited by ShaNayNay, 25 May 2012 - 01:13 PM.

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