OK so long time lurker, not such a strong contributer. I finally bit the bullet and bought a RFSG in an attempt (emphasis on "attempt") to be as awesome as ForsakenAngel24. Guy is pretty bad ass.... But enough of that.
So I went ahead and did the "easy" portion of the mod, and just bust out the air restrictors and then close up the gun. This includes drilling the holes out a little bit (but not gooping them).
Problem #1: Ranges have gotten seemingly worse, I assume its because of stock darts being pretty crappy while there now being increased airflow but no real surface area for the air to push the stock dart. All of my stefans bit the dust as I left them in my trunk last summer and the heat cooked them. They kind of shrunk' but they were frost king anyway.
Problem#2: The bigger problem, the turret no longer rotates. Now I did cut the pushnut without replacing it, or I could have put the rotation mech together wrong. If there is anyone with a good working knowledge of this blaster any insight would be useful.
Sidenote: I've been following this site for years now, and I'm sad I haven't contributed much. Any mod I've done was very well documented and/or executed better than I did. Also up until the point I saw the RFSG on amazon for relatively cheap I was satisfied with my brass barreled airtech 3000.
Thanks Guys!
RFSG Help- rotation mech
I'm on my way to a Doomsayer-ish gun
Started by HuntedWumpus, Mar 15 2012 11:31 PM
4 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 15 March 2012 - 11:31 PM
#2
Posted 16 March 2012 - 07:37 AM
The RFSG barrels don't fit any stock darts or stefans so the range will be horrible until you replace the barrels with a better material (petg, cpvc, brass).
You need to have a pushnut fastner or something there to keep the rotation mech and turret seated together. There is probably too much room for the mech to separate from the turret and causing it to not rotate.
Once you fix those, you might as well fix the turret/plunger tube seal and put in a better spring combo to take advantage of the other mods.
You need to have a pushnut fastner or something there to keep the rotation mech and turret seated together. There is probably too much room for the mech to separate from the turret and causing it to not rotate.
Once you fix those, you might as well fix the turret/plunger tube seal and put in a better spring combo to take advantage of the other mods.
#3
Posted 16 March 2012 - 12:27 PM
Pictures of the rotation mech would be very helpful in determine specific cause, but most likely the ratchet has nothing to engage against because you didn't replace the pushnut.
Edited by Zorn's Lemma, 16 March 2012 - 12:27 PM.
"In short, the same knowledge that underlies the ability to produce correct judgement is also the knowledge that underlies the ability to recognize correct judgement. To lack the former is to be deficient in the latter."
Kruger and Dunning (1999)
Kruger and Dunning (1999)
#4
Posted 16 March 2012 - 04:48 PM
Pictures are always helpful. But I can tell you taking out the ar in this gun without replacing the barrels will decrease range as the stock darts are horrible. As for the rotation mech, it barely works stock, you really need to glue the spring or replace it with an equal length of CPVC, also I chose to glue the gears together as well to make sure it won't skip. The push nut fastener is also eventual as it keeps the rotation mech together other wise the entire rotation mech can move back and forth when you prime it rather than turning and causing the barrels to rotate. I can take pictures of mine if you need a better explanation, since I need to open mine up anyways to fix the seal.
#5
Posted 17 March 2012 - 06:27 PM
As was said many times, pics would be very helpful. I sadly am shy my digital camera because it won't recharge. Which leaves my cell phone, and I wish that evil on NO ONE. Haha. I really think the lack of a pushnut is the killing blow for my rotation mech.
As far as additional springs - would a #49 do well? From what I gather I assume that they are different lengths.
Is it better to run JUST a [k26] or can I add to the stock spring and cheap my way to similar ranges?
Also thanks for all help given so far.
As far as additional springs - would a #49 do well? From what I gather I assume that they are different lengths.
Is it better to run JUST a [k26] or can I add to the stock spring and cheap my way to similar ranges?
Also thanks for all help given so far.
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