Let's start by chopping off the barrel. I'd recommend a coping or hacksaw to keep the heat to a minimum. This is my mark for the first cut:
Next lets cut the trigger support off.
Now let's cut down our coupler. Thanks to taerkitty for the micrometer idea. You don't have to cut quite to my dimensions. I have tried a shorter coupler and less of a stub on the Jolt and it has proven sturdy (With less deadspace as well).
Now we'll start to shape the stub of the Jolt and the inside of the coupler up to match. You can use a dime to check your progress. The Jolt stub should be exactly the size of the dime and the hole of the coupler should be just shy of that. Note that we are using the Jolt itself as the stop for the barrel so you will have to sand away the inside of the coupler fully. Now is a good time to remove the middle trigger support too.
Here it is a bit further along. I am still working on these so I'll switch to the single one for the next pic.
Here it is fully shaped and fit. Note the inner profile of the coupler. The coupler should be a press fit for strength. Insert some cpvc in there while you are fitting it to check for barrel alignment. .68" was the diameter of the outside of the Jolt stub. The micrometer did come in handy to pinpoint fit problems. $10 at harbor freight on sale. The height of the Jolt stub (and therefore the depth of the coupler's hole) was .24". My coupler was .72" high once it was fully sanded.
Ok epoxy your coupler on being sure to line it up well. I made sure to fit a barrel in there to use as a guide. While it's drying we can work on the trigger. You can cut your trigger to your needs. This is the profile that worked for me. Here is the finished product and the marks on a fresh one:
Next lets cut the catch spring tube. Find a good strong piece of plastic that's wider than the trigger. I used something about 1/3 of an inch in diameter to match well with the catch spring I had. Cut the slot for the trigger before you cut it down to size for ease of handling. Then cut the tube down to a little longer than you need to and test fit it to the coupler to determine the proper height. I did file the bottom of the catch spring tube a little concave to match up with the coupler. The spring I used for the catch was just one I had laying around. Many work well so you should have no problem finding one. A pen spring did work as well.
Now line everything up and test fit it. Make sure there is no resistance or binding. If it's ok you can tack it with superglue, let it dry a bit, then remove the trigger and glue it better from the inside.
Let that dry and move on to the barrel. This is the way I did my dartstop but you may have your own way. Make sure the ends of the copper wire have no chance to dig into your coupler. About 2" is a good start for stefans, 2 1/4" is where I cut the barrel for stock darts. The barrel with the weird chunk taken out is for a different blaster.
Trim down your bottom plate to your liking (it does serve to keep the priming bar clear of your hand in this configuration). Trim your plunger rod to your liking. Re-assemble and Enjoy!
The wrist strap is Excellent! It's for a Wii controller and makes priming a snap even with heavy springs. Ranges? Better than with my regular Jolts. 70'+. Durability? Excellent. No problems so far, although I have not tried industrial springs. Ergonomics? Very good. I would recommend going over the shell a bit, rounding over the various edges that might dig into the hand. I found that removing the logos and sanding down the knurling helped with comfort. I also thin down the shell around the bottom plate screw bosses.
One safety note. I don't keep one of these primed in my pocket. But if you do, with stefans, I would recomend a barrel plug for safety due to the trigger being so exposed. The plug can be pulled pretty quickly.
Edited by iamthatcat, 28 December 2011 - 06:38 AM.