Jump to content


Photo

My Nerf Salvofly


48 replies to this topic

#1 Kid Flash

Kid Flash

    Member

  • Members
  • 1,985 posts
  • Location:Amelia, Ohio

Posted 14 January 2011 - 02:14 AM

Well, with the encouragement from TaerKitty and BrokenSVT, I made my Nerf SalvoFly. Really, all it is is a salvo tank shoved into a firefly. In this thread, I'm just going to post some pictures kind of showing how I put it all together.

This is the first picture I took of the progress. It kind of shows what I did.
Posted Image

The tank still had it's original barrel, so I wrapped it in etape then gooped and solvent welded it in:
Posted Image

I removed the air restrictors:
Posted Image

How I lined up the trigger and blast button:
Posted Image
Posted Image

Then, I decided I needed a button from a magstrike so that I could make it not lose all the air at once, and I made the priming bar kind of adapt to that:
Posted Image
Posted Image

Then, I noticed it liked to kind of slip off, so I put a piece of plastic on there to keep it from doing that:
Posted Image
Posted Image

Then, I tried firing it like that, but I noticed I needed a check valve after the magstrike button, so I used one from a shot blast:
Posted Image

I ended up putting a fitting at the bottom, back corner of the gun for the tubing to lead in like this:
Posted Image

So, this was what I ended up with:
Posted Image

Here is the post that has the V2 internal pictures...

Then I also have a video of it firing here:
Click Me!!!

Another video, but it is put together. The turret decided not to rotate once. I have no idea why... But, here:
Click Me!!!

Another video, with an internal pump now:
VIDEO TIME!!!

My last video on THIS salvofly. I will be making another, but due to haters, there will be no internal pictures of it.
Click Here...

SalvoFly V2 is done.
CLICK THIS, YOU KNOW YOU WANT TO...

Edited by Kid Flash, 18 February 2011 - 10:20 PM.

  • 0

#2 taerKitty

taerKitty

    Member

  • Members
  • 883 posts
  • Location:98052
  • State:Washington
  • Country:United States

Posted 14 January 2011 - 02:43 AM

Nice job. I like how you showed the issues / opportunities you encountered and your solutions. Looking forward to seeing your backpack rig, too. What sort of connector is at the base of the stock? It looks like you can use your backpack reservoir with other airguns as well.
  • 0
Fugly is a feature.

#3 Kid Flash

Kid Flash

    Member

  • Members
  • 1,985 posts
  • Location:Amelia, Ohio

Posted 14 January 2011 - 02:51 AM

Nice job. I like how you showed the issues / opportunities you encountered and your solutions. Looking forward to seeing your backpack rig, too. What sort of connector is at the base of the stock? It looks like you can use your backpack reservoir with other airguns as well.


Yep, I can use them with other guns (soon to have my dtg with salvo integration finished, as seen in the mod/pj thread). It's a quick slip connector (a lot easier than barbed fitting, but also like 3-4 dollars each). I like them for this because they're removable, so I can attach/detach the backpack any time. I still need to get some PVC to house the MS bladders in for the bcakpack... At first, I was thinking 4 inch, but now I am thinking 2 inch should work (mainly just because I have it on hand).

Here's a picture I found on the interwebz of the connector:
Posted Image

It is made by a brand called WATTS. When I buy it at lowes, the little bag it comes in is labeled:

PL-300

QUICK CONNECT
COUPLING
ACOPLADOR
ACCOUPLEMENT

1/4" OD (1/8" CTS)
  • 0

#4 TantumBull

TantumBull

    Member

  • Moderators
  • 1,929 posts
  • Location:Seattle, WA
  • State:Washington
  • Country:United States
  • u/LukeKoboJobo on Reddit

Posted 14 January 2011 - 03:42 AM

I like this a lot. Kind of a reminiscent of my Firefly project from a few years back...

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Some things I like more about yours:
  • While my o-ring may look neater, your foam seal looks a hell of a lot less temperamental. It was a bitch to get that o-ring angled against the turret properly and to have it seal well enough without applying excessive amounts of friction.
  • Your blast button placement is smarter and doesn't require adding on an extra arm.
  • You used a legit hornet blast button. Whatever I used proved a bitch to push in at higher pressures. I think mine was still off the hornet, but it was the valve that connects to the titan I'm pretty sure.
  • Yours has the potential for semi-auto. Obviously a major plus.
Some things I think you could improve on:
  • The placement of your BS valve creates lots of unnecessary deadspace. However, its a fucking big salvo valve shooting darts from a firefly turret. Energy efficiency isn't really going to matter a whole lot at this point and the massive air volume gives you quite a bit of room for error.
  • The way you have the connection point set-up bugs me a bit. I think it would have been beneficial to add a ball valve so you could also cut off the connection if desired. Then again without an on-board pump, it wouldn't really matter all that much. Something similar to what I did with the Battlemax Sceptor would work, which I have embedded some images of below.
  • I think the blaster could use an on-board pump, there definitely is space for one.
Here's some pictures of my ball valve set-up on the Sceptor:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Overall, I really like this project a lot. I wouldn't be writing such a long post after midnight if I didn't, haha.

Edited by TantumBull, 14 January 2011 - 03:44 AM.

  • 0

#5 Kid Flash

Kid Flash

    Member

  • Members
  • 1,985 posts
  • Location:Amelia, Ohio

Posted 14 January 2011 - 03:54 AM

I like this a lot. Kind of a reminiscent of my Firefly project from a few years back...


Some things I like more about yours:

  • While my o-ring may look neater, your foam seal looks a hell of a lot less temperamental. It was a bitch to get that o-ring angled against the turret properly and to have it seal well enough without applying excessive amounts of friction.
  • Your blast button placement is smarter and doesn't require adding on an extra arm.
  • You used a legit hornet blast button. Whatever I used proved a bitch to push in at higher pressures. I think mine was still off the hornet, but it was the valve that connects to the titan I'm pretty sure.
  • Yours has the potential for semi-auto. Obviously a major plus.
Some things I think you could improve on:
  • The placement of your BS valve creates lots of unnecessary deadspace. However, its a fucking big salvo valve shooting darts from a firefly turret. Energy efficiency isn't really going to matter a whole lot at this point and the massive air volume gives you quite a bit of room for error.
  • The way you have the connection point set-up bugs me a bit. I think it would have been beneficial to add a ball valve so you could also cut off the connection if desired. Then again without an on-board pump, it wouldn't really matter all that much. Something similar to what I did with the Battlemax Sceptor would work, which I have embedded some images of below.
  • I think the blaster could use an on-board pump, there definitely is space for one.
Overall, I really like this project a lot. I wouldn't be writing such a long post after midnight if I didn't, haha.


These look pretty similar, but I didn't know there was another one out there on the forums... Here I thought I was being original... But, I didn't use a foam seal, it's just the stock seal that was already there. I actually added a piece of polycarb in there to hold the blast button in place just to be safe, but I do like my placement. Also, you are correct with where that blast button of yours came from... I have never tried using those though. I always used the ones off the sides. The way Draconis suggested that I place the MS valve, behind the trigger, would have allowed me to make this semi auto. I just felt that this was the easier way to do it.

There isn't much dead space. I mean, there's probably just enough dead space to fit a streamline in it. Like you said, it's a turreted salvo tank. Dead space isn't a huge issue here. They were meant to fire arrows after all. I like the idea of an onboard pump, and the ball valve. I just didn't think it would be completely necessary. However, I could go back later and add it in there. It definitely can't hurt. I was just on a budget, so I didn't want to have to buy more than I needed.

Thanks for the suggestions, and comments. I might come back to this at another time and toss a pump in there, since right now I just have one hanging there that gets tossed into the backpack. I'm glad you like it.




EDIT: updated with another video...

Edited by Kid Flash, 14 January 2011 - 03:57 AM.

  • 0

#6 nerkum

nerkum

    Member

  • Members
  • 171 posts
  • Location:Georgia, USA
  • State:Georgia
  • Country:United States

Posted 14 January 2011 - 10:04 AM

You should use one of these, it is a normally passing valve. When you press the button it stops the air from the source and exhausts the air going out from it. They are perfect for backpressure tanks like the BS.

http://www.clippard....sp?sku=MAVO-3P#

The valve I linked is smaller in diameter then the Hornet blast button. That way it will be a true semi-auto.
  • 0

#7 Kid Flash

Kid Flash

    Member

  • Members
  • 1,985 posts
  • Location:Amelia, Ohio

Posted 14 January 2011 - 01:34 PM

You should use one of these, it is a normally passing valve. When you press the button it stops the air from the source and exhausts the air going out from it. They are perfect for backpressure tanks like the BS.

http://www.clippard....sp?sku=MAVO-3P#

The valve I linked is smaller in diameter then the Hornet blast button. That way it will be a true semi-auto.

Although it is cheaper than the one Ryan##### showed me, it is still 8 dollars plus shipping. That might be a good replacement piece if I make another one of these... I do have a firefly coming in the mail...
  • 0

#8 Dyxlesic

Dyxlesic

    Member

  • Members
  • 100 posts
  • Location:Dallas Texas
  • State:Texas
  • Country:United States

Posted 14 January 2011 - 01:58 PM

Check valve after the magstrike trigger. Totally called it :P
Anyway, great job. How are the ranges?
  • 0
Anything you can do I can do backwards

#9 Kid Flash

Kid Flash

    Member

  • Members
  • 1,985 posts
  • Location:Amelia, Ohio

Posted 14 January 2011 - 03:00 PM

Check valve after the magstrike trigger. Totally called it :P
Anyway, great job. How are the ranges?

Ranges are great so far, with unbanded bladders. Haven't tested it outside for ranges yet though.
  • 0

#10 utahnerf

utahnerf

    Member

  • Members
  • 339 posts
  • Location:Grosse Pointe Park, Michigan in summer; Aspen, CO for school.

Posted 14 January 2011 - 03:52 PM

So how well do those slip connectors work compared to barbs? I am having a hell of a lot of problems with my brass barbed 1/4" connectors. They incessantly leak, and are a bitch at high pressures. I secured them with Plumber's Goop, should I have used super glue? Also, how should I connect 1/4" tubing well to the end of a Hornet pump? Does hot glue work better than Goop?

Edited by utahnerf, 14 January 2011 - 03:53 PM.

  • 0

#11 iDrag0m1r

iDrag0m1r

    Member

  • Members
  • 66 posts

Posted 14 January 2011 - 04:45 PM

You should use one of these, it is a normally passing valve. When you press the button it stops the air from the source and exhausts the air going out from it. They are perfect for backpressure tanks like the BS.

http://www.clippard....sp?sku=MAVO-3P#

The valve I linked is smaller in diameter then the Hornet blast button. That way it will be a true semi-auto.

How would this make it semi-auto? Wouldn't it work exactly like the hornet blast button?
  • 0
I AM JUNIOR!

#12 Kid Flash

Kid Flash

    Member

  • Members
  • 1,985 posts
  • Location:Amelia, Ohio

Posted 14 January 2011 - 05:05 PM

So how well do those slip connectors work compared to barbs? I am having a hell of a lot of problems with my brass barbed 1/4" connectors. They incessantly leak, and are a bitch at high pressures. I secured them with Plumber's Goop, should I have used super glue? Also, how should I connect 1/4" tubing well to the end of a Hornet pump? Does hot glue work better than Goop?


Use super glue. Then, with the barbed connectors use some goop on top of that. WIth the hornet pump, use super glue and then solvent weld. The slip connectors work GREAT. They're amazing. NEVER use hot glue. It is not meant to hold stuff on under pressure.
  • 0

#13 lionhawk

lionhawk

    Member

  • Members
  • 218 posts
  • Location:Fairfax, VA
  • State:Virginia
  • Country:United States

Posted 14 January 2011 - 05:36 PM

Amazing work flash.
  • 0

#14 Green Wing

Green Wing

    Member

  • Members
  • 68 posts
  • Location:Vancouver, Washington
  • State:Washington
  • Country:United States

Posted 14 January 2011 - 06:38 PM

I really like this. Good job.
  • 0

#15 Kid Flash

Kid Flash

    Member

  • Members
  • 1,985 posts
  • Location:Amelia, Ohio

Posted 14 January 2011 - 09:01 PM

Amazing work flash.


I really like this. Good job.



Thanks guys. As an update, I mounted a pump inside. I actually cut down a magstrike pump by about 3 inches, and was able to cram it in there. It really stresses the plastic, but the screws didn't strip, and it's all together. My turret is starting to miss its rotation, so I might have to replace it with a spare one that I have, or at least I think I have a spare one... Pictures will be up soon.

EDIT: instead of pictures, it's VIDEO TIME!!!

Edited by Kid Flash, 14 January 2011 - 10:31 PM.

  • 0

#16 utahnerf

utahnerf

    Member

  • Members
  • 339 posts
  • Location:Grosse Pointe Park, Michigan in summer; Aspen, CO for school.

Posted 14 January 2011 - 10:51 PM

So how well do those slip connectors work compared to barbs? I am having a hell of a lot of problems with my brass barbed 1/4" connectors. They incessantly leak, and are a bitch at high pressures. I secured them with Plumber's Goop, should I have used super glue? Also, how should I connect 1/4" tubing well to the end of a Hornet pump? Does hot glue work better than Goop?


Use super glue. Then, with the barbed connectors use some goop on top of that. WIth the hornet pump, use super glue and then solvent weld. The slip connectors work GREAT. They're amazing. NEVER use hot glue. It is not meant to hold stuff on under pressure.


Ok, thanks for the advice. Shortly after posting I went to Lowe's and bought a slip connector. Compared to a barbed connector, they are DAMN AMAZING. No adhesive is needed, doesn't stretch your tubing, great seal. Kid Flash, what do you use as a solvent weld? Pvc glue?
  • 0

#17 Kid Flash

Kid Flash

    Member

  • Members
  • 1,985 posts
  • Location:Amelia, Ohio

Posted 14 January 2011 - 11:16 PM

So how well do those slip connectors work compared to barbs? I am having a hell of a lot of problems with my brass barbed 1/4" connectors. They incessantly leak, and are a bitch at high pressures. I secured them with Plumber's Goop, should I have used super glue? Also, how should I connect 1/4" tubing well to the end of a Hornet pump? Does hot glue work better than Goop?


Use super glue. Then, with the barbed connectors use some goop on top of that. WIth the hornet pump, use super glue and then solvent weld. The slip connectors work GREAT. They're amazing. NEVER use hot glue. It is not meant to hold stuff on under pressure.


Ok, thanks for the advice. Shortly after posting I went to Lowe's and bought a slip connector. Compared to a barbed connector, they are DAMN AMAZING. No adhesive is needed, doesn't stretch your tubing, great seal. Kid Flash, what do you use as a solvent weld? Pvc glue?


I use Oatey All Purpose Cement. It looks like this:


Posted Image
  • 0

#18 utahnerf

utahnerf

    Member

  • Members
  • 339 posts
  • Location:Grosse Pointe Park, Michigan in summer; Aspen, CO for school.

Posted 14 January 2011 - 11:34 PM

Ok, thanks.
  • 0

#19 nerkum

nerkum

    Member

  • Members
  • 171 posts
  • Location:Georgia, USA
  • State:Georgia
  • Country:United States

Posted 15 January 2011 - 04:26 AM

You should use one of these, it is a normally passing valve. When you press the button it stops the air from the source and exhausts the air going out from it. They are perfect for backpressure tanks like the BS.

http://www.clippard....sp?sku=MAVO-3P#

The valve I linked is smaller in diameter then the Hornet blast button. That way it will be a true semi-auto.

How would this make it semi-auto? Wouldn't it work exactly like the hornet blast button?


When you push in the button is stops the air from the source, aka the air tank, then it vents the air that is going to the big salvo. So it acts like a blast valve, but stops the flow of air from your tank so you don't have air leaking out.
  • 0

#20 Kid Flash

Kid Flash

    Member

  • Members
  • 1,985 posts
  • Location:Amelia, Ohio

Posted 15 January 2011 - 05:26 AM

You should use one of these, it is a normally passing valve. When you press the button it stops the air from the source and exhausts the air going out from it. They are perfect for backpressure tanks like the BS.

http://www.clippard....sp?sku=MAVO-3P#

The valve I linked is smaller in diameter then the Hornet blast button. That way it will be a true semi-auto.

How would this make it semi-auto? Wouldn't it work exactly like the hornet blast button?


When you push in the button is stops the air from the source, aka the air tank, then it vents the air that is going to the big salvo. So it acts like a blast valve, but stops the flow of air from your tank so you don't have air leaking out.


So would that replace just the magstrike button, just the hornet blast button, or both?
  • 0

#21 iDrag0m1r

iDrag0m1r

    Member

  • Members
  • 66 posts

Posted 15 January 2011 - 09:45 AM

It would most likely replace both, meaning full semi-auto.
  • 0
I AM JUNIOR!

#22 Kid Flash

Kid Flash

    Member

  • Members
  • 1,985 posts
  • Location:Amelia, Ohio

Posted 15 January 2011 - 11:51 AM

It would most likely replace both, meaning full semi-auto.

Most likely? Anyone have something more definite to say about this? I mean, if it does replace both, I'll buy one. I'm not even considering it until I get something more than a maybe though.
  • 0

#23 Boot

Boot

    Member

  • Members
  • 90 posts
  • Location:Beijing, China

Posted 15 January 2011 - 07:41 PM

if it does replace both, I'll buy one. I'm not even considering it until I get something more than a maybe though.


I still think a valve setup like that in the Mirage-ss would work best. It is tried and proven, simple to make, and would definitely replace both valves creating a true semi-automatic setup. You don't even need a hornet plunger valve. In the next iteration of the Mirage series the valve I made (which works great) is made out of a syringe. All you need is a plunger that slides airtight within a small tube.

Anyway it's just a suggestion, the current setup is already effective, but this would make the blaster truly semi-automatic.

If you are looking for a store bought component you can also look for a "6464K11 - directional control valve (DCV)" I recall TantumBull using this in a previous Semi-auto Maverick build. Both of these are sure to convert you're blaster to effective semi-automatic operation.
  • 0
QUOTE
If you try to shoot over 45 feet with a magstrike accurately you fail

I beg to differ

#24 utahnerf

utahnerf

    Member

  • Members
  • 339 posts
  • Location:Grosse Pointe Park, Michigan in summer; Aspen, CO for school.

Posted 16 January 2011 - 07:24 PM

I was thinking, could this work with a normal pin tank instead of a backpressure? I was afraid of all of the air going into the At3k tank at once, and breaking it. Would a hard tank work instead of MS bladders?
  • 0

#25 TantumBull

TantumBull

    Member

  • Moderators
  • 1,929 posts
  • Location:Seattle, WA
  • State:Washington
  • Country:United States
  • u/LukeKoboJobo on Reddit

Posted 16 January 2011 - 09:57 PM

The K11 won't pilot a Big Salvo valve though. It doesn't have enough flow. I would reccomend looking into a clippard DCV.
  • 0


0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users