68 replies to this topic

[Darth Freyr]

Alright, I feel obliged to say something due to the arguments in this thread. ice is referring to 9662K45 while windtex1 (and the rest of us) assumed he meant 9637K45. Problem solved. Drac, McMaster suggests that the ID of 9637K25 is 0.808", and the one I have fits very tightly over and squeezes 1/2" PVC, completely unusable for a plunger. You have some [k25] springs that fit over 1/2" PVC though? That's an interesting conundrum.

On-topic now. This is a pretty interesting design. I think I may be trying it out soon, albeit with 9/16" OD nylon because that's what I have laying around. I think I'll also be using an angled handle. When you said you preferred vertical, was that compared to using a 45 degree elbow? Have you thought about making use of quick release pins or something of that sort to hold it together, so that you could switch the parts out mid- or between rounds? Also, in the video, it looked like the priming tee could have hit the hand that was on the trigger. Have you noticed this being a problem?

[SgNerf]

On-topic now. This is a pretty interesting design. I think I may be trying it out soon, albeit with 9/16" OD nylon because that's what I have laying around. I think I'll also be using an angled handle. When you said you preferred vertical, was that compared to using a 45 degree elbow? Have you thought about making use of quick release pins or something of that sort to hold it together, so that you could switch the parts out mid- or between rounds? Also, in the video, it looked like the priming tee could have hit the hand that was on the trigger. Have you noticed this being a problem?

Yes, i have tested the trigger handle in a 45 degree Wye joint too, but after some actual game usage, i found the T-joint to be abit more comfortable for my usage (my trigger handle is positioned further away due to the longer plunger draw, so a vertical handle setup felt more comfortable to me)... as mentioned, its up to personal preference so everyone can just try out various handle designs and customize it to how they want it to be.

Quick release pins are also something i'm sourcing around for too, i'll definitely be incorporating those into my blasters once i get them.

As for the plunger rod T-joint, its forward position has sufficient clearance from the hand holding the trigger handle so there is no danger in that area if it is used properly.

Interestingly, if an angled trigger handle were to be used, it actually raises the wrist position and brings the wrist closer to the plunger rod T-joint (depending on the handle angle), which means the plunger rod T-joint position would need to be adjusted.... so that's something to take note of.

Edited by SgNerf, 10 December 2010 - 12:43 PM.

[acseazzu]

Ice, do you think you can make a write up how you did it?

Edited by acseazzu, 15 December 2010 - 12:05 AM.

[landstricker]

A k45 theoretically doesn't even fit over 1/2 cpvc let alone pvc.

It fits very loosely over CPVC. I don't care about theories, I own it, and it works great on 1/2 cpvc. It's OD is 1" with .092" wire diameter.

Isn't your plunger rod 1/2 PVC and not 1/2 CPVC

[Y-Brik]

A k45 theoretically doesn't even fit over 1/2 cpvc let alone pvc.

It fits very loosely over CPVC. I don't care about theories, I own it, and it works great on 1/2 cpvc. It's OD is 1" with .092" wire diameter.

Isn't your plunger rod 1/2 PVC and not 1/2 CPVC

It is, that's why he still needs a spring. Think people, think!

[landstricker]

A k45 theoretically doesn't even fit over 1/2 cpvc let alone pvc.

It fits very loosely over CPVC. I don't care about theories, I own it, and it works great on 1/2 cpvc. It's OD is 1" with .092" wire diameter.

Isn't your plunger rod 1/2 PVC and not 1/2 CPVC

It is, that's why he still needs a spring. Think people, think!

On his site it says that he is using a k45.

[LilNickyG]

I just finished building mine, except for the trigger, i need a corner brace or whatever it's called, my 3 springs are 14/16 OD and 3/4 ID. I put them over a 1/2 aluminum rod with a notch cut in them. The catch guide is a 3/4" T and inside is 1/2"pvc inside 3/4 pvc and the catch itself is 1/2 brass inside 1/2 pvc. My plunger is 1 1/4 pvc. Its a really fun gun and was very easy to make and shoots very well. The pictures are from my phone and are not very good quality and one is small but they get the point across

[ice]

Sexy. Also, I converted my plunger rod to 1/2" cpvc just so I could use the k-45. I also threw a longshot spring on over that, getting ranges in the 120's with it.

[LilNickyG]

Sexy. Also, I converted my plunger rod to 1/2" cpvc just so I could use the k-45. I also threw a longshot spring on over that, getting ranges in the 120's with it.

Nice. I was going to use cpvc but I can't seem to find any where I looked in my town so i settled for the aluminum rod. Its heavier but hopefully it shouldn't affect the ranges too much

[Y-Brik]

Really? It's pretty common in hardware stores- did you ask an employee to help when you were looking?

[LilNickyG]

Yea. The guy had no idea what i was talking about. i had to explain what cpvc was and he still didnt know what i was talking about. Then i looked up and down the plumbing and electrical aisles and couldn't find it.

[Y-Brik]

Yea. The guy had no idea what i was talking about. i had to explain what cpvc was and he still didnt know what i was talking about. Then i looked up and down the plumbing and electrical aisles and couldn't find it.

1. find smarter employee. Ask if there's a plumbing specialist in-store
2. CPVC is used mostly in potable (drinking) water as a substitute to copper tubing- as such it's near the copper tubing (In my experience anyway).

While Im here, what springs are you using? I'd recommend [k26] (Plusbow spring) which you can order off McMaster or buy from Split's sales thread.

[LilNickyG]

I'm not sure what springs im using. my dad brought them home from work. I'm planning on getting that one because these are not very powerful

[Demon Lord]

CPVC at lowes is generally right next to the PVC in that same isle and is beige as a rule instead of white.

[LilNickyG]

Ok. Thanks everyone for you help

[ChaosPropel]

Hey guys,

Just got back from a week long vacation ...
Anyway, I finished up building my own version of this last week. I used a 1/2" CPVC plunger rod, 2 4" HD Industrial Springs, a SNAP style "washer sandwhich" plunger head, a 1 1/4" PVC plunger tube, and a 3/4" tee as the main tee.

**Pics coming soon**

Overall, it was a very fun blaster to make, though there are a bunch of little details, as Ice mentioned.
I will be building another variant (with a 1 1/2" PT) soon, and I have a few questions for Ice and any other R3L builders-

-What did you use for the back bushing?(the one that connects the PT to the Main Tee) (considering you used a 1.5" PVC PT)
-What did you use for the front bushing? Do you recomment a bushing that slips OVER the 1 1/2" PVC, or one that nests INTO the PVC?

--Chaos

[Shrapnel]

I absolutely love this design, it is very versatile in a long-range war, Since there is a large amount of air volume being expelled from this blaster, you could try and put a chopper, hopper or rscb clip on it to increase the rate of fire, or you could try using the 8t with it.

Keep building and designing.

[cmeej]

Beautiful design! The clean lines and the minimalism make me shiver

I'd second the requests for a do-it-yourself write up.

Thanks for the post!

Cmeej

Edited by cmeej, 30 October 2011 - 11:10 PM.

[imtig3rman]

Sweet, I can't wait to war with one!

Please don't necro topics with nothing substantial to add to the conversation. The last post in this topic was the end of October.

Edited by Carbon, 20 December 2012 - 11:16 PM.