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Kung Fu Panda Commander Crossbow Barrel Replacement


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#1 flamincows

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Posted 03 August 2009 - 04:01 PM

First off, I claim no real creativity or originality with this simple modification. I am posting this only because I noticed that there was very little information regarding this blaster on the forums.

So, without any further introduction, here is my writeup for the Kung Fu Panda Commander Crossbow, an underrated, mid size, totally goofy looking blaster.

Here it is in the box, which claims that it will shoot the sweet looking mega-darts 20ft.

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I only fired it stock one time, but it barely reached my garage door from about ten feet away. Not a great sign.

And here is a close up of those groovy darts:
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Cool huh?
But let's move on.
Unscrew the gun. You do actually have to take out every single one of the screws in the gun as the bow arms don't snap pop or anything. It's kind of a bitch, but it makes for a very sturdy blaster. Also the plastic is comparable to Hasbro plastic as opposed to Buzz Bee or Lanard Plastic.

Here is a picture of the plunger tube in the shell beside a nitefinder:

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It is slightly longer than the nitefinder plunger tube and might be a little wider though I did not take any measurements.

To remove the plunger assembly you must unscrew the screw that goes through the little finger handle used to prime the gun. Now take out your plunger and examine it:

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Here you can see the stock spring which I would compare to a whiptail scorpion spring (so not that bad really) and the well lubed plunger head which has a pretty good seal in the plunger tube. I didn't mess with it at all, but you could probably stick a layer of e-tape under the O-ring if you aren't satisfied with the stock seal. I may go back and do this depending on how well the lube holds up.

Here I ran into a problem. I can find no way to add to or replace the spring (something that I almost always do) as the whole assembly is fitted together without any screws of any kind:

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If anyone else has one of these and has successfully replaced the spring without destroying the gun please let me know. Internal banding might be a possibility, however the catch is rather weak and sometimes requires that the trigger be pushed forward in order for it to catch. I didn't snap a picture of said catch (you can kinda see it in the upper left hand corner of the third picture) although it is relatively simple and could probably be reinforced with a tactical rail spring. Open the gun up; you'll see what I mean.

But anyway, on to the barrel replacement:

What you will need:
- a 4 to 5 inch piece of thick wall PETG (length depends on dart fit, just use about the same length that you would use to re-barrel a nitefinder)
- e-tape
- a dremmel (could be done without one, but it would be much more difficult)
- needle nose pliers
- Plumber's Goop (or your preferred adhesive for barrel replacements


I chose not to coupler this gun as a PVC coupler would not fit and my darts just don't like CPVC, but I'm sure a CPVC coupler could be made to fit in the stock barrel with some sanding

Now, when you look down the stock barrel you will see a massive peg that restricts air quite effectively:

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Remove that through whatever means you are comfortable with. I used the cutting bit on my dremmel and a pair of needle nose pliers with some force behind them. Just do whatever you have to to make it look like this:

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Make sure to clean all the little pieces of plastic debris out of your plunger tube. I used a paper towel taped to a dowel rod.

Next, sand down the ring at the tip of the barrel until it is flush with the back of the barrel. This will make it easier to use e-tape to center the barrel while the goop dries.

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E-tape and goop the barrel as shown then shove it it and let the goop dry for twenty four hours.

The finished product:

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I have not tested ranges yet, but I can say that they are far better than stock. This is not a blaster that I would use in a war (without a spring replacement that is), but I like the way it looks and amazingly, the tiny handle isn't that uncomfortable.

I'm sorry if any of the pictures are unforgivably blurry, I'm a little new to doing write-ups.
Thanks for reading; let me know what you think.

Edited by flamincows, 03 August 2009 - 04:02 PM.

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#2 PC III

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Posted 03 August 2009 - 04:29 PM

Nice job. Estimate ranges?
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QUOTE(ultra920 @ May 19 2008, 06:18 PM) View Post

Don't want to shove balls in tight spaces. Trust me, bad idea.

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#3 white moonlight

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Posted 03 August 2009 - 05:21 PM

That is very, very nice for a first writeup and post.

You are right to not claim originallity, but that really doesn't matter.

It was a very easy write-up to read and follow.

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#4 wingd man

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Posted 03 August 2009 - 05:35 PM

Wind/thread the spring on, you might have to cut off 1 or 2 coils.
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#5 flamincows

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Posted 03 August 2009 - 05:53 PM

I thought about that, but the plunger rod is a considerably thicker than a PAS's and the stock spring has such a small diameter that it would be difficult to get off. Not to mention the issue with the catch.

I just went out and compared its range to some of my more consistent guns and it's hitting a good 40-50 ft. Again it isn't something I'd carry in a war but it's a lot of fun to shoot around.
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#6 Darth Tom

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Posted 03 August 2009 - 05:57 PM

You can always thread on a spring with a larger diameter than the stock one. And even though it's tedious, you can get the spring off. Just dremel off a half coil at a time.

Edited by Darth_Tom, 03 August 2009 - 05:58 PM.

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#7 Jimu RetroGuru

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Posted 03 August 2009 - 06:07 PM

I picked up one of these dark horses myself.

I went with the 1/2-inch CPVC coupler myself. A perfect fit in the stock barrel... after a bit of sanding. (All I had were the "bulgy" kind. Great for plumbing, not so hot for DIY-gunsmithing.) Works great, and the coupler even fits the stock ammo.

I agree with your assessment of the plunger head, but found a tedious but workable way to fit an industrial NF spring. "Key-ring" the sucker onto the plunger shaft. It wasn't easy, but it did the job.

I also whittled inside the stock a bit to restore the rotation. I thought about replacing the "little finger handle" with an actual key ring a la the LNL, but the plastic loop seems a little flimsy. Rotating the stock before cocking the bow made pulling back the cocking handle on that industrial spring a LOT easier.

I realize that eventually the plunger head will rip itself off the rod. I'm actually looking forward to it. Since the head is set off-center on the rod, traditional "washer" head replacements are out of the question. When the head breaks off I plan to put in a BBB spring; then use small washers, goop or epoxy and a wood screw to re-attach the head.

All in all, a sweet little gun.
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#8 Mr BadWrench

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Posted 03 August 2009 - 06:42 PM

I just got rid of mine at APOC but I can give you all my "secrets"


1/2in copper coupler with the 2 little nubs inside ground/filed off so 1/2in cpvc fits all the way through it.

drill a hole in the bottom of your barrel and put just a tiny bit of tape on the copper coupler so it stays centered in the stock barrel... then put the hotglue gun to the hole in the barrel and pump away, this will fill the gap between the stock barrel and the copper coupler leaving a perfect seal and looking nearly stock... Please test fit your cpvc to the stock copper coupler and adjust as needed before making anything permanent.

as for the catch, Mine holds up to a combined RFR and stock spring, ask anyone at APOC who tried to prime it, there is no problem with the catch.



as for the spring..there is a steel pin that holds the plunger rod to the priming arm mechanism, push the pin out, replace the springs, push the pic back in... its not hard at all...

Don

Edited by Mr BadWrench, 03 August 2009 - 06:49 PM.

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#9 flamincows

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Posted 03 August 2009 - 07:06 PM

Well I decided to stop being a pussy and threaded half a '[k25] spring onto the plunger rod and reinforced the catch spring, but I cut the spring a bit too long and in the process of discovering this stress lines began to appear on the plunger rod so I filled it in with epoxy putty and we'll see how well it shoots tomorrow.

I did see that pin, but I was worried that if I pushed it out I wouldn't be able to get it to fit back in securely. It's good to know this is not the case.

Incidentally, Bob, your picture of this gun in the internals thread as well as some comment you made about it being an "overlooked gem" is what convinced me to purchase one.

Edited by flamincows, 03 August 2009 - 07:08 PM.

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#10 Saber

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Posted 03 August 2009 - 07:42 PM

If done correctly, I can vouch for how well the gun holds. I bought Mr.BadWrench's Panda Bow and the thing works beautifully. The catch is as he said, sturdy and I doubt it will have any problems. Well, as long as I don't drop the thing from a 2 story building like I did my nightfinder.
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#11 Mr BadWrench

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Posted 03 August 2009 - 08:07 PM

Well I decided to stop being a pussy and threaded half a '[k25] spring onto the plunger rod and reinforced the catch spring, but I cut the spring a bit too long and in the process of discovering this stress lines began to appear on the plunger rod so I filled it in with epoxy putty and we'll see how well it shoots tomorrow.

I did see that pin, but I was worried that if I pushed it out I wouldn't be able to get it to fit back in securely. It's good to know this is not the case.

Incidentally, Bob, your picture of this gun in the internals thread as well as some comment you made about it being an "overlooked gem" is what convinced me to purchase one.



make sure you have a stop for the plunger.... I use those disk shooter foam disks as buffers... if youre expecting the plunger rod to stop the spring on its own you will have a mess.

Don
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#12 Mr BadWrench

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Posted 03 August 2009 - 08:09 PM

sorry, flood control made me double post

Edited by Mr BadWrench, 03 August 2009 - 08:10 PM.

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#13 Judging Eagle

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Posted 04 August 2009 - 06:25 PM

Bloody hell. I saw one of these at Winners in the toy section and thought "damn.... that would be a great prop, but it's probably such a piece of shit, I won't burn the 20$" guess I was wrong.

I guess that would be one of more interesting "uses" of this launcher, leave it as stock as possible, and have people think that you're using a POS weapon. That won't last long, but it will give the element of surprise. I've been in situations before where people not expecting my reach to be what it is to get caught off guard; the same applies to any competetive situation.

The stock plunger is also pretty interesting, since I've seen a lot of people here go for "simple, flat" style washer-built plungers in their guns.
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#14 flamincows

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Posted 05 August 2009 - 01:07 AM

Well it certainly has a lot of potential, but I have yet to unleash most of it. The gun refused to catch with the [k25] spring even after I cut it down quite a bit so I went with a stock crossbow spring (partially for the sake of irony), and the range may have increased 5-10 feet, but the dart doesn't have much velocity at all. It just kinda floats on the air (although it is quite accurate) and would be very easy to dodge. I might try putting the stock spring on in addition to the crossbow spring tomorrow and see what happens.

Edited by flamincows, 05 August 2009 - 01:08 AM.

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#15 Jimu RetroGuru

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Posted 05 August 2009 - 10:13 AM

Well it certainly has a lot of potential, but I have yet to unleash most of it. The gun refused to catch with the [k25] spring even after I cut it down quite a bit so I went with a stock crossbow spring (partially for the sake of irony), and the range may have increased 5-10 feet, but the dart doesn't have much velocity at all. It just kinda floats on the air (although it is quite accurate) and would be very easy to dodge. I might try putting the stock spring on in addition to the crossbow spring tomorrow and see what happens.


Dremel inside the stock so it can rotate 90 degrees, like it was in the packaging. Then just rotate the stock before you cock. I've got a Home Depot NF spring in mine and rotating the stock make cocking MUCH easier.
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#16 flamincows

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Posted 05 August 2009 - 10:51 AM

Dremel inside the stock so it can rotate 90 degrees, like it was in the packaging. Then just rotate the stock before you cock. I've got a Home Depot NF spring in mine and rotating the stock make cocking MUCH easier.


Does it just make it easier to rest against your body while you cock it or does rotating the stock affect the internals in some way that is unknown to me? I don't have any difficulty pulling that little tab back; I'm just getting unimpressive results. Even with half a [k25] spring in I could depress it as far as it would go, but the sucker wouldn't catch.

Also my lithium grease lubricant seems to have enlarged the O-ring which it hasn't done to any of my other guns (a fair few). Is there something different about this O-ring?
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#17 Judging Eagle

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Posted 05 August 2009 - 07:07 PM

It's probably a different type of artificial rubber, you're probably going to have to cannibalize an older gun of yours, or head out and do some shopping. ):

Edited by Judging Eagle, 05 August 2009 - 07:07 PM.

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#18 Jimu RetroGuru

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Posted 05 August 2009 - 07:24 PM

Dremel inside the stock so it can rotate 90 degrees, like it was in the packaging. Then just rotate the stock before you cock. I've got a Home Depot NF spring in mine and rotating the stock make cocking MUCH easier.


Does it just make it easier to rest against your body while you cock it or does rotating the stock affect the internals in some way that is unknown to me? I don't have any difficulty pulling that little tab back; I'm just getting unimpressive results. Even with half a [k25] spring in I could depress it as far as it would go, but the sucker wouldn't catch.

Also my lithium grease lubricant seems to have enlarged the O-ring which it hasn't done to any of my other guns (a fair few). Is there something different about this O-ring?


Actuallly, rotating the stock simply moves the edge of the stock out of the way of the cocking tab. This let's you pull the cocking lever back JUST a little more so it can catch.

No idea about the O-ring, though. I use silicone Plumber's grease.
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#19 flamincows

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Posted 05 August 2009 - 11:22 PM

Well as a makeshift I wrapped electical tape around the plunger head without the O-ring on it until it fit tightly in the plunger tube, then lubed the shit out of it. I also added the stock spring to the crossbow spring and it's shooting as far as my nitefinder (about 70 feet depending on the dart. I'm in the process of switching foams).

I'm pretty happy with it overall. Do you think it would be legal in a pistol round?
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