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Dart Tag Blaster Overhaul

Update! PJ stage 1 (thoughts?) and finished integration

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#1 wingd man

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Posted 24 July 2009 - 09:09 PM

Dart Tag Blaster Overhaul

By Wing’d man

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I have the following goals for this modification:
1. Larger plunger tube
2. Better turret seal
3. Better turret rotation
4. AT2K integration more suited to me
5. A good contest entry ;D

Credit goes to the following people:
Angel for his angel eye's AT2K pump, which inspired me to do this pump placement.
KingBouyah for his drawback extension, shown here
(Hope he doesn't mind me borrowing his pic.s)
Cappoid for the AT2K

Onto the Actual modification:
Mateials:
AT2K
DTB
Barrel material
Amazing goop
JB weld/Epoxy
#8 washer. The stuff you make stefans with.
1-1/4" OD x 3/16" ID Neoprene washer
#10 SAE washer
Key ring
recon light
Vinyl tubing
Putty
1" class 200 PVC (thinwall)
1/8" Polycarbonate
8 6-32 machine screws/bolts
lube (for pump)
PVC coupling

Tools:
Dremel
Screwdriver
Sandpaper
Pipe cutters (for cutting pump)
Cutting tools of choice (optional, just makes things less of a hassle)
Drill


In order to break up the process, I’ll make this into steps:

STEP 1- Larger air output

That plunger tube is smaller than a NF plunger tube, it maxes out at ~50’ This will replace it with a plunger tube 2/3 the size of Daedalus (http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=16908).
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Cut off the very front of the stock plunger tube, just the plastic in the front, you should have a disk with a rimmed hole in it. Epoxy this to the front of a piece of 1” class 200 (or thin wall) PVC. Cut this piece to about 3”. There should be some space between the back of the plunger tube and that part of the shell that the spring pushes up against. This is good. Next Dremel, using your sanding bit, the parts of the shell that hold the plunger tube so that the PVC fits into it nicely. Make sure the PVC is centered on the plunger rod.
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You shouldn’t dremel the part that the part that seals with the turret rests on. That was from a different project that I didn’t end up doing. (Doh!)
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The plunger head should be a washer sandwich. Like so:
#8 washer. The stuff you make stefans with.
1-1/4" OD x 3/16" ID Neoprene washer
#10 SAE washer
I used a cut down Tech Target rod for my plunger rod- it has the EXACT same dimensions in size, notch placement, notch shape, and it is much sturdier. If you insist on sticking with the stock one, use the technique featured here: http://nerfhaven.com...ad bow overhaul.

One more thing:
Cut your plunger rod like so:
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I recommend making cuts like so:
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And popping out the pieces.
Next simply fill the first one with putty, don’t forget to sand, clean, and mix well!
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Note: If you are going to stick with the stock slide you have to cut down the slide and the hole it slides through, I am not including this as I am changing the priming mechanism.
Note2: For clearer ways on how to do Note1, and just because I should give credit, refer to this: http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=15451

Edited by wing'd man, 04 August 2009 - 02:09 PM.

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#2 wingd man

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Posted 24 July 2009 - 09:11 PM

STEP 2- General Mods

First things first: That goddamn turret. Pop some hot glue in the back under the white piece so that the hex things don’t skip.
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Lube it by putting a glob of lube on the rotation mech. when it is in the shell, then, using the trigger, rotate the turret 20 times with the gun assembled. Add a catch spring, replace the regular spring with a door spring from home depot. Cut it down to 11 coils.
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Then take out the turret, unscrew it, remove the air restrictors, cut out the vent things, and do the barrel replacement of choice. Cut off the front handle of you are going to do an AT2K integration.

Edited by wing'd man, 24 July 2009 - 09:20 PM.

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#3 wingd man

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Posted 24 July 2009 - 09:13 PM

STEP 3- AT2K integration/ DTB priming mechanism relocation


Take your tactical light, and cut it right behind the rail clip. The dremel both halfs of the shell like so:
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Next unscrew the AT2K and cut the ring around the pump, then take out all the internals. If you pull/pop out the goo gauge, it should come out of the AT2K quite nicely.
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Epoxy in some tubing.
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Next cut a PVC coupler in half, and cut the front off of the 2K tank, like so:
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Sand, clean, and then amazing goop the coupling onto this. Apply goop to both objects, wait 3 or so minutes, and connect them. I put some JB weld on the outside just because I had a batch mixed up. Then Duct tape the whole deal.
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Next cut the tubing between the pump and goo gauge. Then cut the pump tube to about 3 ½”. Then cut the rod off where it connects to the O-ring thing. Then cut the pump rod to about 4” from the front. Goop the pump rod like so:
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Also cut the end like you see in the picture.
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Drill/ Dremel that cover thing on the back of the DTB and cut the shell so you can fit a pump in the back. Also drill a small hole below it for fishing wire to go through. (Key ring priming for the DTB.)
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Extend the slot the slide slides through like so:
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Then sand the slide so that the bar that sticks out on the bottom only goes up to the rods that stick out the slide.
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Like that, except all the way back to where the rods are.
Then JB weld, Epoxy, and/or goop in the pump, make sure that the edge of the tube only goes up to where the slot starts.

Next take your recon light and drill 2 holes into the part the Tac. Rail clip goes into (both sides). Then drill holes straight through the 2 screw holes closest to where the handle was. Then cut a 2 pieces of 1/8” polycarbonate into an L shape and drill 4 holes into it so that you could attach the recon light using the L shapes and screws, then attach the recon light using the L shapes and screws. I have not done this yet, as I am obviously on a short schedule, I have also not attached the AT2K to the Pump yet.

Next drill a hole in the end of the plunger rod and thread fishing wire from a key ring through the lower hole in the back of the DTB and through the hole in the plunger rod, wrap it around about 3 times then quadruple tie the ends together.

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Attach the pump tubing to the AT2K, make a key ring trigger for the AT2K, make a barrel for the AT2K and you’re done!

Edited by wing'd man, 24 July 2009 - 10:04 PM.

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#4 NerfRogue83

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Posted 24 July 2009 - 10:24 PM

So this is the beast I have been hearing about, huh? Well done old friend--nice mod.---Rogue.

Edited by NerfRogue83, 24 July 2009 - 10:25 PM.

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#5 HOTH

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Posted 25 July 2009 - 03:24 AM

Very nicely done! Extremely innovative. like it alot
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#6 wingd man

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Posted 25 July 2009 - 08:45 AM

So this is the beast I have been hearing about, huh? Well done old friend--nice mod.---Rogue.

Why thank you. Yeah, I guess I am an old friend... I've known you for almost *gasp* 3 months! :)

Very nicely done! Extremely innovative. like it alot

I wanted to enlarge the plunger tube, and since I <3 integrations, I wanted to integrate an AT2K, but I had already cut off the front handle, and it wasn't quite my style, not "integration"-y enough and it took up to much space. I knew that, with strong springs, the DTB was hell to prime after 10 shots, so I needed to change the priming mechanism. Then I thought of the Angel eye and BAM! a new integration was born. I'm working on a complex-ish turret which I'll post.

One more thing:
Posted Image

Edited by wing'd man, 25 July 2009 - 09:24 AM.

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#7 NerfRogue83

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Posted 25 July 2009 - 09:41 AM

[/quote]
Why thank you. Yeah, I guess I am an old friend... I've known you for almost *gasp* 3 months! :)

I dont make a habbit of keeping many people as "friends", so yes--you are old.Consider yourself lucky --Hahaha. On topic: what is the last picture again? An arrow shooting attachment?
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#8 PointBlank

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Posted 25 July 2009 - 11:46 AM

I am a little confused, would it be possible for you to post a zoomed out picture so I can see the whole finished product?
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#9 Salmon

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Posted 25 July 2009 - 12:45 PM

You know, a long, long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away, I had the idea of doing something similar, but in the end, I just ended up deciding it wasn't worth the effort. You went through with it, though, and created quite an impressive blaster, with (gasp!) 2/3 the air volume of Daedalus, a 2k integration, 10 auto-rotating shots, and a shell not too much bigger than, say, a SM1.5K.
I applaud you, sir. Excellent work, and let me be the first to say I look forward to seeing this in action at DAFT.
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#10 wingd man

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Posted 25 July 2009 - 05:46 PM

I don't make a habit of keeping many people as "friends", so yes--you are old.Consider yourself lucky --Hahaha. On topic: what is the last picture again? An arrow shooting attachment?


Oh, well then, thank you, I didn't realize... you seem pretty nice as far as I can tell...

You know, a long, long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away, I had the idea of doing something similar, but in the end, I just ended up deciding it wasn't worth the effort. You went through with it, though, and created quite an impressive blaster, with (gasp!) 2/3 the air volume of Daedalus, a 2k integration, 10 auto-rotating shots, and a shell not too much bigger than, say, a SM1.5K.
I applaud you, sir. Excellent work, and let me be the first to say I look forward to seeing this in action at DAFT.


Thank you, you made my day.

I am a little confused, would it be possible for you to post a zoomed out picture so I can see the whole finished product?


Ah, it is not completed. The top picture is most finished available.

Edited by wing'd man, 25 July 2009 - 05:52 PM.

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#11 KingBouyah

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Posted 26 July 2009 - 11:47 PM

Nicely done,
Thanks for the credit, and I have no problem with you using my pics since you've noted where they came from.
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#12 wingd man

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Posted 27 July 2009 - 07:41 AM

Nicely done,
Thanks for the credit, and I have no problem with you using my pics since you've noted where they came from.

Good. to be frank, I couldn't imagine anybody getting mad...
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#13 wingd man

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Posted 04 August 2009 - 11:55 AM

UPDATE!!!!!!
(Yes, the translucent polycarbonate was intentional.)
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I realized that the old integration was ridiculously fugly. I also realized that, when priming the gun, there was enough leverage to make almost all the force on my wrist, which was terrible. If I held it on the front where the 2K was priming was a breeze. Thus I put the AT2K into the shell of the controller for this. (The UFO thing was broken.) I drilled a hole in the trigger and tied that to the trigger on the 2K tank with twine.
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Because the trigger was a sensor it has a very long trigger pull and works beautifully.
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The way I attached the pump to the AT2K was as follows:
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I cut a piece of 1/2" OD and 3/8" ID Vinyl tubing and cut a notch in it as shown above.
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Glued it in that position with epoxy.
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Ta-da! Finished integration.

I'm wondering weather to leave it silver or add some blue or red or maybe black or something. Pink? Thoughts?

Edited by wing'd man, 04 August 2009 - 02:04 PM.

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#14 NerfRogue83

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Posted 04 August 2009 - 08:03 PM

A nice mod made even cooler---well done buddy. As for paint?----black and red pinstripes!
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#15 wingd man

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Posted 05 August 2009 - 02:51 PM

A nice mod made even cooler---well done buddy. As for paint?----black and red pinstripes!

Nah... I think I'll make some fluorescent green highlights.
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#16 DartzDude

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Posted 05 August 2009 - 03:07 PM

I really like this I applaud you. Very nicely done! :ph34r:
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#17 wingd man

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Posted 05 August 2009 - 03:42 PM

Thanks! I'm currently having some spring problems...
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#18 Saber

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Posted 05 August 2009 - 09:55 PM

Add pink over the screws just so you know where they are all the time.
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#19 wingd man

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Posted 06 August 2009 - 08:03 AM

Add pink over the screws just so you know where they are all the time.

Err... why? I have enough extras that I really don't need to keep track of them.

Also: I need to change this system of priming, I have some weak ass springs in here and it's hard as hell to prime. Thoughts?
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#20 CA13

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Posted 06 August 2009 - 08:41 AM

Nitefinder or even a SNAP plunger could work,
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Doing this as I speak. I have no idea when I got it...my DAD got it some 15 years ago, but that doesn't matter. Anyways, it keeps jerking around all over the place. I try to hold it with a rag...It doesn't look like...much.


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